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Standard Eye, Mid-Eye or Reverse Eye

How do you know high high each will raise your car. I know the stock height, and 1" lower, but how do you know what stock height is.

I just put a new front suspension in a couple of months ago, sure seems high, but I don't know if that is because my rear end is worn out or if it is setting high or is proper height.

I am sure I need to replace my rear springs because it sets pretty low but I don't know how to tell. So you see my situation, when it comes to which leaf to buy.

Thanks
LMN Rancher
 

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Amazing isn't it? I tired to start a similar thread...no answers....I dont understand why there isn't an official chart with the different leaf selections (4, 4.5, 5) -leafs...with either (standard, mideye, reverse eye). They should put each on a car and then measure the distance from the center of the wheel hub to the top center of the wheel well lip on the rear. This would take out the guess work...

I know because im going through the same thing right now.

BUT I THINK a Standard eye 5 leaf spring should be around 15" hub to well lip with a full tank of gas.

Someone correct me if Im wrong...
 

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OK..... the trick to this confusion is...........
Wish it were that easy.
Because there are so many cars (65-73), with so many different weights,
it's really difficult to give an exact answer on where any given vehicle is
going to sit.
Add to that the many aftermarket suppliers, with their mid-eye, reverse-
eye, etc.
We'd even get springs from the same local manufacturer that would place
the car higher or lower than the blueprint that we provided that custom
manufacturers' database.
Frequently we'd have to resort to disassembling the leaf spring, tweaking
the main leaf in the 10 ton press and reassembly. What a PITA.
And remember- ride height is an objective call AFA what looks "good" to
a lot of people......let alone what works well for suspension dynamics.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1994
 

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Standard Eye, Mid-Eye or Reverse Eye

How do you know high high each will raise your car. I know the stock height, and 1" lower, but how do you know what stock height is.
None of them will raise the car.

OK, I said that for effect. A proper standard eye will set the car at stock height. We can talk about what that is. If your old springs are saggy, new stock ones would raise it.

Mid and reverse eye are intended to lower the car below stock height.

If the height of this rear end does not offend you, then stock is what you want.

 

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Yea but stock height is also a variable because depending on how many leafs you have regardless of the eye hole...it will change the height. A 4 leaf std. is not going to set the car at the same height as a 5 leaf std.

And i understand that with different companies and brands there might be variation...but if i go to CJPONYPARTS.com they should be able to tell me or have a chart. They haven't tested their products? In a world where we DONT want to use lowering blocks it gets expensive to buy leafs over and over to get the right height.

And I see lots of conversation on ride height in different forums but the ONE thing that is funny is when people post a picture of their car and say "this is my ride height" but dont state the measurement from hub to lip...gas in the tank or empty...tire size...new or 40 years old. Hey..we're not all precise or engineers...I get that...but that where I'd hope the professionals ( companies ) would come in to take out the guss work.

Right? Sorry I'm fired up today lol gonna pour me a tall glass lol
 

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Here's a huge generalization...

Most people like the look of the mideye, ok I said it!

Standard eye will bring the car back to original, and reverse eye gives the car a "lowered" or "slammed" look.(to a degree)

And unless you're very serious about the handling characteristics (i.e. competition) and plan to take the same measures as GT289 to perfect your ride height, then it's not the end of the world to make adjustments using lowering blocks. (I would go no more than 1", less is better obviously, use your own judgement.)
 

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Bear in mind that it's entirely dependent on who makes the springs, how much arch they build into the spring and what the design load is for that spring, what the ride height is going to come out to. I don't think just talking about 'standard' vs 'mid-eye' etc tells you anywhere near enough about what you need to know.

Do you want a 125 lb/in spring, 160, 185, how stiff a spring do you want? Stock replacement? What front spring rates are you running? How are you going to use the car? Cruiser? Drags? Occasional/part-time track car? Trailered track car?

Are you close enough to the vendor that you can pull six or eight springs off the rack, lay them out on the floor, and ensure the pair you get matches up well? Do you have some scales or access to a shop with some scales so you can at least see what the corner weights are once everything's bolted up?

My Maier springs are a 160lb/in '5-leaf' mid-eye but the fifth leaf is a windup-control leaf on TOP of the main leaf; IIRC they offer two different ride-height options for that spring and mine are the taller of the two.

I won't know what the final ride height works out to until the trunklid and all the convertible top bits are back in the car and the car gets its 6-point rollbar; I've been ballasting the trunk with sacks of cement for setup purposes. I know the car's going to be heavy; with the glass hood and all the aluminum on the engine the weight bias is going to move rearward a bit from stock, too.

Back when I expected to be running leaf springs in the '64 wagon and I figured I'd have to do some spring design and testing on that car, I'd started to lay out a leaf-spring rate/load checker, with a piece of 3x5x.250-wall tubing and a shackle at one end and some rollers at the other and an hydraulic jack supported over the spring on an steel-tube A-frame. That's on hold for now until I prove whether the MN12 IRS is or is not going to work in that car, the only other leaf-spring car on the project horizon is a '65 Cortina and chassis setups for that car are a pretty well-known quantity.
 

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Yea I hear ya Dean...just a shame to have to spend 200-300ish for new springs to find yourself needing blocks anyway.

Basically, I have a 245/40R18 aka 25.7" tire in the back...I'd like to be at 26" high ground to lip aka 13.5" center of wheel to lip.

Which 5 Leaf would get me there?
 

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Yea but stock height is also a variable because depending on how many leafs you have regardless of the eye hole...it will change the height. A 4 leaf std. is not going to set the car at the same height as a 5 leaf std.
Well, I'm talking about stock height. Since all 64-73 Mustangs came with 4-leaf springs, there's no point in discussing 5-leaf springs. No such thing as a "stock" 5-leaf. And if you look at original Ford photos, the height of the 6 cylinder was virtually identical to the performance V8.



 

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I'm just sayin'... If you want .3" like you mentioned then your gonna have to do some fine tuning! Or bite the bullet and get the car to a spring shop and be prepared to pay for it!! On that note, what's a normal price to pay for re- arching a set if leaves? A shop near me wanted $275-$325 PER SIDE!! At that rate I could just about buy every combination spring on the market!
 

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I'm just sayin'... If you want .3" like you mentioned then your gonna have to do some fine tuning! Or bite the bullet and get the car to a spring shop and be prepared to pay for it!! On that note, what's a normal price to pay for re- arching a set if leaves? A shop near me wanted $275-$325 PER SIDE!! At that rate I could just about buy every combination spring on the market!
Which means they were going to do it right. Proper re-arching requires annealing, recurving, and heat-treating. Cold re-arching is a waste of time and money. Re-arching is best saved for cars with unusual springs, like 57 Corvette, or a Cord Roadster.

If you just want your car to ride right, Glazier/Nolan will sell you show-correct GT springs with eye bolts, U bolts, and shackles for less than $200.
 

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I know...which is why Im saying that suppliers should try them out and show the results...people are in the dark because most are coming from some saggy 4 leaf springs...dont know what the height was originally so they cant subtract 1" or 2" from a number they dont know.

You wouldn't buy a performance part for your engine if all it said was,

" It will make your car faster! "

No...you'd want to know how much hp/tq increase it yields.

So since these suppliers have all the goods...and test mustangs and install parts...why not record data as it comes in and post it. My guess...they want you to experiment through trial and error because it only increase their sales.

EXAMPLE: 1968 Test mustang convt. - Full tank - No spare

Measured Center of Wheel to center fender lip.

4 Leaf stock - 14.5"
4 Leaf mid eye - 13.5"
4 Leaf reverse eye- 12.5"
------------------------
4.5 Leaf stock - 15"
4.5 Leaf mid eye - 14"
4.5 Leaf reverse eye -13"
-------------------------
5 Leaf stock - 15.5"
5 Leaf mid eye - 14.5"
5 Leaf reverse eye - 13.5
 

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No particular help here, but I just measured my '66 coupe, which is completely stock and is just 2 gallons (12 lbs.) short of a full tank. Center of wheel to lip is exactly 13" on 3 corners (RR, RF, LF). LR is 13.25". Didn't remove the spare...don't know if the RR would come up a tiny bit or not. I think I'm fortunate because I am really happy with the stance (personal opinion, of course). ;)
 

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Hey imnezrider!

Thats the spirit! :) Thanks that is actually very helpful...See if more of us measured like that it would give us all a better idea...Im assuming there 4 leafs...how old are they if you dont mind me asking? newer or original springs?
 

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Sharp Coupe by the way ;)
 

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very cool...seasoned....I like it! ....Where's the thumbs up button?!?....
 

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Now I'm just hoping I can find some mustang owners here with 5 leaf std, 5 leaf mid eye or 5 leaf reverse eye...who could find it in their heart to measure from center of wheel to fender lip for me.

That would be awesome...

Because Im debating between 5 leaf mideyes and 5 leaf reverse eyes...hmmmm

:/
 
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