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Discussion Starter #1
theres a pic attached. do i push out the bearing where my top finger is, or where my bottom finger is?

its being done so a 95 5.0 5speed will fit in a 67 289 3speed mustang. im using the original 67 driveshaft but swaping the yokes (as i read that I'm suppose to)
 

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Um, why not just pop the 67 yoke in the T5? They are the same 28 spline design.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
also... instead of buying an ac delete. can i use the ac compressor off the 95.. but just disconnect everything from it temporary? would that damage it? i might use it later on in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Um, why not just pop the 67 yoke in the T5? They are the same 28 spline design.
i read that you have to swap the yoke. not true? one has a longer yoke and one of them has it where the spline doesnt start till an inch or 2 down the yoke. cant remember which because i'm not in the garage right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
also, which u-joint do i use. the 67 or 95?
 

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skettchy skettchy man. i resently replaces all of the u joints on my 65 and they are accualy diffrent size u joint CAPS so u will have to take the 2 yokes appart like you are going to swap them and then use callipers to check the size to the race. Because accualy when i replaced mine i got a size to big and man were they a bitch to put in they were going to work but their was going to be like - clearance but i wanted to have beafier u joints. so when i drived them in they started to peal metal off of the cups. so just check the cup diameter to the race. and to take out and install the u joints use a socket (try to use a junk one) one that as big as the cup diameter and fits into the race then use a big hamer to hit the base of the socket (side that the socket attaches to the wrench). make sure to use alot of wd40.
 

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big note: dont make the same mistake that i did. when i installed the new u joints i installed it too were the grease nipples were unreachable to a grease gun so "technically" i installed it upside down. SO make sure that you install them were the nipples can be accessed and make sure that you keep them greased. good lucky.
 

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big note: dont make the same mistake that i did. when i installed the new u joints i installed it too were the grease nipples were unreachable to a grease gun so "technically" i installed it upside down. SO make sure that you install them were the nipples can be accessed and make sure that you keep them greased. good lucky.
Or better yet, install the non-greaseable solid U-joints. Instead of having a hole down the center of the U-joint to grease them (this weakens the U-joint significantly), use the solid non-greaseable (greased for life and no hole down the center to weaken it) which is much stronger. Especially if you're running the stock small 1310 U-joints.
 

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i read that you have to swap the yoke. not true? one has a longer yoke and one of them has it where the spline doesnt start till an inch or 2 down the yoke. cant remember which because i'm not in the garage right now.
also, which u-joint do i use. the 67 or 95?
Have you noticed the people telling you that a new yoke is required are also trying to sell you one for $100? Unless your old yoke is worn, you don't need one.

Use the U joint for your correct year driveshaft etc. The 64-66 joint will NOT fit the later slip yoke or shaft, and vice versa.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well i put the original 67 driveshaft in and it fit perfect with the 95 5.0 5-speed..
if it fit fine then why does this swap site i have in my favorites say to swap the yokes?
 

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umm because they like haveing the same year yoke match the same year transmition besides a one that is 40+ years old i guess.
 

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