[BlackCobraKR]

Which would you choose as a pilot bearing for a TKX transmission the simple bronze bushing or a roller bushing?

 

[MSMach1]

I went with a roller bearing. I think Tremec recommends a bearing. The plus side of the bronze is it won't gouge your input shaft snout if things go south. I put some extra grease in the cavity with the roller bearing to hedge my bets.
My understanding is the needle bearing is a more precise alignment of the input shaft. The Tremecs' use tapered roller bearings input shaft support and that's why they suggest aligning your bell housing due to the more true running shaft, to eliminate side loading. The older transmissions: Muncie, T-10 etc. used ball bearing input shaft support and are more tolerant to deviation of the shaft. Someone will come along and have a different opinion, but that's ok.

 

[disquek]

I used a bearing also.

 

[zray]

Bronze bushing all the way in any engine / transmission combination where applicable.

Better support and no moving parts to fail.

Z

 

[hotrodfords]

Bronze all the way for any long term instal. If you’ve got a race car and are pulling the trans on a routine schedule, the roller is fine, and you might gain some advantage. Street car; I wouldn’t recommend.

Ive seen the roller chew up the input shaft on long term use.

By the way, I have a TKX and will be installing it this summer…using bronze.

(I have 5 vintage cars, 4 with manuals…all bronze input bearings)

 

[jherrud]

I use a bronze bushing. KISS principle.

 

[W427]

Bronze if you're not a racer or maintenance addict. Roller is fine if you pull your trans and re-lube it when you grease your U-joints or always with any clutch work. I'd suggest one that has the seal or o-ring at the rear. If you're the type to just "throw a new disc in", or use unverified service shops, I'd use bronze. Failed rollers are expensive. Pros and cons to each. You be the judge.

 

[disquek]

You guys realize that every car made since like 1975 has roller pilot bearings and there is no stampede to get them replaced.

If you index your bellhousing, a roller bearing will work great. If you don't, a bronze bushing won't be the first thing to fail.

 

[W427]

OK, so perhaps I'm paranoid, with several failures under my belt, admittedly across many years. But the newer vehicles were made for them. From Novak (emphasis mine):

In most cases, this is a porous bronze, pre-flexplate bushing rather than an actual bearing, as it is often called. A few applications still use an actual bearing and others use a needle roller type bearing, but by far, the most common type is bronze. You cannot use a roller bearing on a transmission shaft originally designed for a bronze bushing due to different type of heat treatment on the shafts.

Do your thing.

 

[Nailbender]

I bought a bronze bushing on the advice of the forum last time I had the T5z out. In the end I followed the same rationale as @disquek, they made the change from bronze to roller for a reason. I've had some/many failures, the pilot bushing was not one of them. I would go with the transmissions manufacturer recommendation on this one.

 

[supershifter2]

Bronze for any trans

 

[zray]

Most automakers change something to increase profit first and improve engineering second.

Ford was no exception.

 

[gregb]

I like the roller. But what clutch? Organic type material on both sides? Either will work. You have a disc with those metallic pucks on one or both sides? Roller…..the metallic particles generated by one of those won’t play well with a bronze bushing….

 

[hotrodfords]

You guys realize that every car made since like 1975 has roller pilot bearings and there is no stampede to get them replaced.

If you index your bellhousing, a roller bearing will work great. If you don't, a bronze bushing won't be the first thing to fail.

I don’t think you’ve had a top loader out of an early Mustang for servicing with 30,000 miles on a roller input.

Yes, we do realize that modern cars have SEALED roller pilot bearings. They look like this one from a 2010 Corvette:

Below is one like you’ll put on a top loader. Notice the exposed rollers, ready to eat your clutch dust? Notice it uses your input shaft as the bearing race, something it wasn’t hardened to do, indexed or not. The early crankshaft is also not machined or designed for the much larger diameter needed to house a sealed bearing with its own race. So this is what you get:

 

[image98]

I swapped a t5z into my 66 and went with a roller pilot bearing. So far so good. Centerforce II clutch. Doesn't it really depend on the transmission to determine what pilot bearing is used? Most roller pilot bearings fail due to damage during install or lack of proper lubrication.

 

[Randyfastback65]

Bronze bushing all the way in any engine / transmission combination where applicable.

Better support and no moving parts to fail.

Z

Yep…I’ve had a bearing fail and seize up on the input shaft…that wasn’t fun..
it’s hard to change gears and drive home when the input shaft is always spinning.

 

[dennis111]

Yes, we do realize that modern cars have SEALED roller pilot bearings. They look like this one from a 2010 Corvette:

I use a similar sealed bearing (like above) in my 434w due to the abrasiveness of the sinterned iron racing clutch disc material used in racing. These clutches are designed to be slipped during launch and gear shifts to improve ET's and to limit drivetrain breakage with ultra sticky tires.

For a street car using a clutch designed mostly for the street, the bronze bushing would be my choice.

 

[MSMach1]

I don’t think you’ve had a top loader out of an early Mustang for servicing with 30,000 miles on a roller input.

Yes, we do realize that modern cars have SEALED roller pilot bearings. They look like this one from a 2010 Corvette:

View attachment 886751

Below is one like you’ll put on a top loader. Notice the exposed rollers, ready to eat your clutch dust? Notice it uses your input shaft as the bearing race, something it wasn’t hardened to do, indexed or not. The early crankshaft is also not machined or designed for the much larger diameter needed to house a sealed bearing with its own race. So this is what you get:

View attachment 886752

A couple of points, the OP was in reference to a Tremec TKX transmission, and yes, the Tremec input shafts are compatible with the needle bearing style pilot bearings and yes, the pilot bearings have a O ring seal facing the flywheel and are interference fit. so for all intensive purposes, are sealed against debris and clutch dust. The choice on whether to use one or the other is opinion.

 

[Woodchuck]

IF you can positively guarantee that the centerline of the crank and the centerline of the transmission's input shaft are exactly the same (radially and longitudinally) then, sure, go with a bearing. That said, I'll go with bronze every time. If it ain't perfect give it a little time (and mileage).

 

[disquek]

@hotrodfords , you don't know me. Don't go making statements about people you don't know.

Especially when you're dead wrong.

Sure, if you have worn out ancient junk, yeah, a bushing might buy you some time so something else can fail first.

But if you have well put together pieces checked carefully for concentricity and parallelism, you can enjoy the benefits of the better parts.

-Kyle