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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If so what driveshaft rod are you using for the oil pump.

Supposedly these are prone to tearing up the dizzy gear, or shearing the roll pin, or worse.

I was told today by a guy at Mallory that if you run a high volume oil pump you must run a oil pump
shaft from arp or ford motorsports and run a spiral roll pin in the dizzy gear.

Anyone have experience with this?

Sluggo
 

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I am running a Belden High Volume pump in my Windsor with the factory Ford pump shaft. (new, of course)
It's been 2 years now, and the only problem I've had has been a gasket failure where the pump mounts to the block.
John
 

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I am running an ARP driveshaft in my 408 with a high volume pump..The machine shop is supposed to adjust the bearing clearances a little on the loose side to prevent too much oil pressure which causes the heavy drag on the pump and causes problems like you mentioned.
 

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I am running the Ford Racing Performance Products one on my 427W. I have heard of the stock ones breaking but don't know of anyone it has happened to. As far as the roll pin and dizzy gear thats a new one on me. I really don't think that as the weak link is the drive.
 

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Got a blueprinted HV pump in the race car W with a SVO driveshaft and OEM Autotronics distributor (cast iron gear with flat tappet cam). Close to 200 runs on the engine and things are rock steady on the light..

No need for HV IMO unless running loose clearances, which I am. I also run a proprietary restrictor setup. Hot pressure runs 55psi @ 7200rpm with straight 50W petro oil.
 

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I have a strong 351w with a normal volume Melling oil pump, but I have a hardened ARP pump rod. My builder said a HV pump actually isn't recommended, but the hardened HV rod is good insurance.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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A good engine builder's rule is to always replace the oil pump driveshaft. And since you're going to anyway, why not step up to a beefier one? That's exactly what I do. I'm very much in agreement with your builder.
I have put in high-volume pumps, but only in "looser" engines-like Pat. Always a beefy driveshaft but no other mods. I've yet to personally have or see a failure.
I suspect a high volume pump, a stock pump driveshaft, 50wt racing oil, and starting up on a cold winter morning would be dancing with the devil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
camachinist said:
No need for HV IMO unless running loose clearances, which I am. I also run a proprietary restrictor setup. Hot pressure runs 55psi @ 7200rpm with straight 50W petro oil.
I think I'm going to remove the HV pump, put the FRPP shaft in, buy a hardened roll pin at tractor supply and get on with it. I need to get some shavings out of the pan anyway.
The PO put the spacer/slinger back in when he put the double roller chain in and it gnawed up the back of the timing cover just a little bit. No real damage.

I like to run 20w50 Castrol in my stuff anyway.

This is a PAW 427 stroker with the chrysler 360 rods, 400M crank, blah blah blah. I'm quite sure they don,t build them loose enough to need a HV pump.

Thanks guys,

Sluggo
 

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Yeah, likely no reason to run loose clearances anymore....I think mine's running .003 on the mains and .0045 on the OEM rods IIRC. I did it because of the bearing speeds on the large W bearings when running at RPM's over 7K. The pressure will bump the relief on a cold day (set @ 65psi in my hydraulic test rig). A blueprint and lapping of the body to bring the gear end gap within spec completes the oil pump work.

Another byproduct of a bit more bearing clearance on the rods is a little more time to bearing pinch if I happen to peddle hard in the lights (where a light brake isn't sufficient); this ovaling of the bearing bore can be a problem with OEM rods in a racing engine when one comes down on the engine with a lot of rear gear from high rpm.

Anyway, likely TMI but a bit of insight into how I design stuff...
 

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As nice as that Mach is, I think you should "restore" it, and sell me that motor...:stirpot:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yeah I hear ya.

The more I look at it the more I'm leaning towards
going concourse.

If the extra block that is supposedly the original turns out to be matching numbers I may have no choice.

I found the ID tags on the diff, trans, and steering box last night and they are all correct date code and match the info on the door.
They also jive with the published data tag info.
 

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So, sounds like the PO spent big $ on a crate motor and then thought he blew it up. Then along comes 'ole Sluggo to scoop up a #'s matching Mach for next to nothing....... Will you run out and pick me up a lotto ticket? I'll split it with ya. :cheers:
 
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