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Another happy AOD convert here, about 15 + years and counting.
Built mine before a stand alone controller for the 4r70 was available.
Got a core from a local salvage yard for 50 bucks.
Baumann supported the AOD at the time and I had a friend who owned local trans shop do all their recommended swaps to beef it up, wide OD band, “A” servo, hardened shaft, top grade Alto internals, external cooler etc.
All in all less than a grand parts and labor.
 
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Someone posted my 4R70W swap breakdown in this thread. I installed a 2001 4R70W into my 65 convertible and have been super pleased. The versatility in switching between shift tables by a flip of a knob, changes the personality of the vehicle instantly that no AOD can replicate. If you already have a core or just want to avoid electronic altogether, then an AOD makes sense, but otherwise a 4R70W is the way to go. The 2001+ V6 4R70W already have the upgrades from the factory and can handle 415hp no problem.
 

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1966, C-Code coupe w/Explorer 5.0 roller engine, C4 and 9"/3:50 limited slip.
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
I asked my (former) mechanic when he put the 302 in my car whether I should go AOD or 4R70W. He talked me out of the 4R70W. Since then I’ve paid all removal and reinstall costs for the AOD to be rebuilt the first time it burned up. Then the rebuild failed and had it redone at a good transmission place. So far so good with the transmission shop work. But for all the $, and there has been a lot, I really wish I had not done the AOD.

Allen
What were the negatives regarding the 4R70W? Probably due to the newer design they seem much more plentiful.
 

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What were the negatives regarding the 4R70W? Probably due to the newer design they seem much more plentiful.
He was lazy. Didn’t want to deal with the electronic part. Told me there was no benefit


Allen
 

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I rebuilt mine myself with some dvd's I purchased. It's been great for around 20K miles. Setting the TV cable is the main thing, upon install. I set mine with a pressure gauge and then gave it a little more to tighten it up. Do not want any slack, as that just fry's the tranny.
 

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I put the AOD in behind my 351C going on 20 years ago; no complaints or problems. With the 3.89 gears the OD is nice. If I were to do it today I would probably go with the 4R70 since there is more support for it now. The AOD has served me well but the left pedal and 5-speed are going in this year.
 

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Nobody seems to complain about their 4R70W's other than the initial price so there's that.
Buy once, cry once.
I was talked out of an AOD and into a 4R70W. Time will tell
 

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While not for a daily driver, the 4R70/75W can be driven and shifted with no electronic controller. Just some switches or a knob to shift gears and lock-up the converter if you like. Some of the roundy and demo guys here don't use controllers, but the shifts are hard and it feels like the u-joints will fly out right before your eyeballs hit your skull. Woohoo! 🤪
 

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What is the bell housing situation with a 4R70?
Small block pattern, and it is not removable, it’s part of the case..
 

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If I remember correctly, all years can be either the SBF pattern or not…it’s the one with 2 bolt starter that you want for SBF. The others fit 4.6 or 5.4 liter engines …I think…you will need the USA 1 standalone computer from Baumann. My son says that there is a factory controller that is a stand alone computer. He says you can find them on a diesel truck with 4R70/75. I do not know this for a fact….but am interested in trying to find one. I have a 4R70 core already….
 

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Ok…new info…stand alone controller is for diesel trucks with 840D trans, not 4R70. My mistake. Sorry for bad info…
 

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The 4R SBF bell pattern is mostly 3.8 V6 cars and 4.2 V6 trucks, and when stock will handle more power than most of us have. If you see one at a cheap price, grab it for the case, as the modular versions are everywhere cheap and the guts will swap right over if needed or wanted.

If you need the torque converter, the one for most of us would be the higher-stall Marauder converter, at ±2700 stall, 11" with the green dot (brazed internals). Last number I have is 2W3Z-7902-AARM, and rebuilts were about $150. Most V6 car and truck converters are rather tight with low stall for a warmed engine (unless you're driving a bone-stock engine). The V6 converters "work", but you can definitely tell the difference when you drive it. 🤪

[EDIT] Adding an aftermarket reference for the converter:
Automotive tire Camera lens Font Rectangle Circle
 

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'65 Mustang Cpe 289 A-code, AOD, 3.88 gears
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I do drive also an AOD in my 65 Mustang. But after reading all the posts here, I consider really to swap again to a 4R70W.
I'm fairly happy with my AOD conversion, but the option, to change the shift tables is nice. After having already a computer added to my car (EFI from FiTech) I don't mind of another one. Here in Europe (Germany and Switzerland) the benefit of an overdrive is very clear to be seen. Will check the mentioned thread "extensive swap and conversion guide to 4R70W)" with much interest.

Phil
 

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I also put an AOD into my 67 Mustang convertible about 9 years ago, replacing a slipping C4, utilizing all the common conversion parts. Even though I added improved components (AOD band and servo) during the rebuild, after install I was disappointed with the factory shift pattern and feel, especially the inability to manually hold second gear. I swapped in a SilverFox SPT-R valve body and that transformed the transmission into everything I wanted it to be. 1-2-3 on the floor shift, AOD via button on the dash. That valve body also turns the TV cable into a shift feedback cable, not a critical pressure regulating cable, so setup is easy (I did still test pressures just to make sure). If I was doing it today I would probably go electronic, it was just super expensive to do so back in the day.
 

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In 2014, I put in a $50 core AOD in my street rod (not really sure the history of the transmission, the owner was pretty vague). Drove it for the first time around the block around 2am before the first show. Seemed to work.
Drove it to the first show (~25 miles?) and lost about 3 quarts of ATF. I really hosed down the Porsche that was following me :cool:.

After replacing all the seals (the shift seal was the hardest) it seems to be fine. it leaks a little at the filler tube and the pan seeps but for $50, I can't complain. Always planning to put in a T5 but it still works.
 
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