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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my t/o brg installed and bled (3/4 wilwood m/c) and the pedal is VERY stiff. I'm running the Ford Motorsport 10.5" diaphram-style clutch. These parts are all new and the car hasn't been driven yet (hopefully this weekend). It's so stiff it almost feels like a brake pedal before it releases. Do you think it will lighten up with time? Anyone else have this?

I tried to mount the m/c pushrod as high on the clutch pedal as possible to minimize pedal effort, but it still ended up lower than the stock clutch rod mounting point (in order to maintain proper m/c pushrod geometry)

Any input?
 

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I use a Mcleod hyd TO bearing. My clutch mc pushrod is mounted just a little higher than the height of the brake mc pushrod. Mine is a little hard to push, but not that bad. I am running a Center Force DF clutch.

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?
Did you fully bleed the TO bearing?
If your TO bearing is the self adjusting style did you measure the depth to the fingers to make sure you got the right bearing piston size (length)?
Is the pedal stop you installed interfering with the pedal?
 

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I'm runnng the McLeod T/O bearing also. I've got it behind a warmed over 351W and a custom clutch. It is the Long style clutch plate, so you diaphram clutch should be alot smoother than mine. I'm running the Wilwood M/C and I believe that it is also 3/4" bore, but it may be a 1"...it's whatever McLeod recommended when I ordered it. I've mounted the M/C on the firewall so it utilizes the stock mounting hole in the clutch pedal. I just mounted a heim-joint on the end of the pushrod. The clutch pedal is a little lower than the brake pedal, but that doesn't bother me -- for me it's easier to get to the clutch quickly.

I'm in agreement with gp001 with his suggestions, especially on the setup of the bearing.
 

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I have the Mcleod also, but it's not in the car yet. Did you take the return spring off? I heard you need to do that with the hydrolic set up.
 

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Can I ask.....What return spring. I was thinking of doing this setup and am just trying to get info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The return spring they're referring to is a thick coil spring above the clutch pedal pivot point that aids return of the mechanical linkage.

Yes I have removed the spring
 

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In my research before doing this swap I found some people went both ways. Some prefered to remove the spring and have hyd pressure return the pedal (like a brake pedal). Others wanted to have an assist and left the spring. I found that I do not need the spring. The pedal returns quite nicely and resting my size 13 foot on it does not engage the clutch.
 
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