Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Ride of the Month Challenge!

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,

I am TOTALLY lost on where to go from here, so hopefully you can help me out!

OK, when I got the car it didnt have the granada brakes hooked up, just mounted. So I bought a brake line kit and and connected everything together properly. The master cylinder in the car was off of a maverick, and the pushrod was too long so I got a mustang Drum/Drum one for my year car. Put it in after bench bleeding, hooked everything up, bled all brakes, and the brakes were soft. Certainly didnt feel like discs should.

Next, I learned I needed to be running the maverick master cylinder with the mustang pushrod in it, because it had a larger front brake resovoir. After having some fun getting the old pushrod out of the mustang MC, I put it in the new maverick one (for a 1974 car) and bench bled. Put it in the car, re-bled the brakes and felt no different.

So, I posted my problem and learned that I had to run the maverick disc/drum distribution block. I beleived that the distribution block that I was running (came with the car) was the original with my car and was for Drum/Drum. Off to the junkyard I went!

Unfortunately, at the junkyard the only maverick they had had drums in the front. No granadas, no monarchs, no versailles. I checked out a lot of other old fords and found that a 79 mustang had power disc brakes and the distribution block seemed right. It looked just like the granada distribution block I had seen on mustangsteve.com. So, I bought it for 5$. After I got home I decided to switch the calipers before i went to the trouble of changing the distribution block, because people had told me the bleeders needed to be pointing up, and mine faced the back of the car. I swapped the calipers, and the bleeders pointed up. I thought this was surely the cause of my problems and thought I had it solved. After re-bleeding the fronts, (didnt touch the back brakes), the results were horrible. The pedal felt way softer than it had before the swap. Also, the way I have them mounted now (after the swap, with bleeders pointing up), the rubber hose out of the caliper points straight down into the lower control arm, not towards the front of the car like it did before. Had to do some bracket and hard line modifications, but I was able to get them to have enough play at both ends of steering travel.

So today, I went out to change the distribution block. I just pulled it off a few minutes ago, and the part number on it is D6EA 2B328 BB. This means that its off a 76 car, and it looks EXACTLY like the 79 mustang block I got at the junkyard. I was told when I bought the car that the whole setup was off of a 76' maverick, so this is probably the correct distribution block.

Heres a couple of my ideas:

-My dis. block was not plumbed the way the pic on mustangsteve.com is. That one is mounted vertically, mine is mounted horizontally and had the line from the rear resovoir of the master cylinder (for front brakes) entering the dis. block on the side opposite the built in switch, and the two lines for each side of the front brakes coming out of the other two points of the T. I don't think this would have any effect, but could it?

-My bench bleeding method: Put the plugs into the mas. cylinder that came with it, filled with some fluid, pushed the pushrod and air bubbles come out the top of the fluid chambers. Repeated this until pushing the pushrod forced fluid out of both exit ports (where the lines would connect) and no air bubbles came out the top of the fluid chambers.

-Leak somewhere in my lines? I cant see how this could be, as im not losing any fluid from the MC. Ive checked all fittings and they are tight.

-Bleeding procedure: I'm using speedbleeders (with the built in check ball). I open it a half turn, pump the brakes until the fluid in the MC is almost empty (but not empty, I know that would suck air into the lines) and refill. I havent touched the back brakes except when I changed to the maverick MC, and I bled them at that time. Since then, I have not been re-bleeding the back brakes before I do the front. I dont see how it is necessary, as that system is completely separate and im not messing with it.

-Do I need to run a proportioning valve in the rear line? I would think this is only necessary for making sure all wheels lock at the same time. Could this be the cause of my problem?

I'm at a total loss on where to go from here, except to have the car towed to a shop. If anybody has any ideas, I would be more than open towards trying them.

This forum has been an incredible help to me in the past, THANK YOU to everyone here!

Thanks again,

-Dustin
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,948 Posts
The problems ,as you describe, most often is air in the lines. I know you've bled them repeatedly, but sometimes it takes lots of repeats. I don't trust the speed bleeders. They could be malfunctioning. When we've bled master cylinders in the past, we ran a short length of brake line from the port back into the top of the mas. cyl. After pumping the mas. cyl. many times, we'd still get an air bubble or two. Get someone to help push down on the brake pedal. Go through the classic procedure(passenger side rear, drivers' rear, passenger, driver's) using the old hose in a pop bottle method. Several times. If you don't blow any air bubbles and you still don't have any pedal, re verify that there are no leaks. After all this, if you still have no pedal, it may be time for the pros.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
Well, I'm by no means an expert. But I have been working on my brakes this weekend, so I've learned some things. I have a '72 with standard discs up front. I've changed the rear brake hose and the two front brake hoses and I've installed new pads up front. I'm sure that on my car the bleeders do not point up, but face backwards. The brakes worked allright before I started, and now after my work and several times bleeding still work fine. So I guess there is a problem for you. If you look at the calipers in the position they are in my car, the bleeders may point backwards, but they are on the upper side. Any air in the caliper will be pushed during bleeding. Though it may not solve all of your problems, I'm convinced you have to swap the calipers again. Hope you will succeed!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
Looking at your Granada brakes from in front of the tire, here's how the brake line should be oriented.

I agree with the others, air in your lines could be the culprit. I've gone though a couple of quarts of brake fluid trying to get all the air out. Use a plastic hose that goes into a liter bottle instead of the speedbleeders..

http://www.midnightdsigns.com/james/images/rodstop_small.jpg
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top