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Tried the Mod & Custom Forum with no luck, maybe track guys could help.
Appreciate any help.

Seeing if anyone on input on Wilwood brakes?
Have a 70 Mach 1. 351C 4V (C6 Auto tranny for now)
Currently has front disk and rear drum.
Want to switch everything out to Wilwood front and rear.
Currently have 15" Magnum 500 Wheels
Wilwood has so many options.
What size disc for front will fit?
What size disc for rear will fit?
Calipers front 4 piston or 6 piston? Same at rear?
Do you use a Wilwood Master Cylinder?
Drilled and Slotted rotors?
Any input would be helpful...
Thanks
 

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If you want to keep the 15" wheels you are limited in you choices. As Grabber70Mach suggested SoT would be my first choice. I use Wilwood when no other choices are available. Currently on re-fabricating my my hydro clutch setup. I tend to find the made in USA on their parts cringeworthy as I send them back to Summit.
 

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SoT would be a great way to go if you want something to just bolt on. Price seems a bit steep until you replicate the effort on your own and then it seems cheap.
 

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i have a lot of experience with wilwood products on vintage cars -
i have their dynalite caliper system on my 57 chevy - just fine for a street car. i think they make several options for vintage mustangs.
those are inexpensive systems sold by wilwood and others.
if you are thinking about track time, the superlite calipers seem to be much better. Street or track, previous post, makes a nice kit for 15" wheels, although i have found many stock wheels wont work with superlites on different cars. i think torq thrust and "minilite" styles will work, but have to check - dont assume!
wilwood makes fancy kits but need bigger wheels and more money
why discs on the rear? rear drums are just fine for street driving. i am even sticking with rear drums on my 65 track build (vintage racing specs), although i went to 11" drums and plan to use race shoes eventually!
rear discs are especially NOT good on rear solid axles which have ability of axles to move - like the ford 8.8" set up - the axle play can cause calipers to push back in. much less of a problem with 9" ford rear. not sure how ford worked past that problem in the 1990s. my 1991 mustang was worse when i put rear discs on it.
 

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rear discs are especially NOT good on rear solid axles which have ability of axles to move - like the ford 8.8" set up - the axle play can cause calipers to push back in. much less of a problem with 9" ford rear. not sure how ford worked past that problem in the 1990s. my 1991 mustang was worse when i put rear discs on it.
FIXED caliper rear discs are not good on a C-Clip axle such as the 8.8" Ford or 10 bolt GM axles, because the axle movement can cause pad knock back. Floating calipers like what GM used on the F-bodies and Ford used on their factory rear disc setups works fine because the caliper is able to absorb the movement in its slide pins, whereas a fixed (opposed piston) caliper can only absorb that movement in the pistons.

The 8.8" is not a c-clip axle, it uses a retaining plate to contain the axles so it is GTG with both fixed and floating calipers.

I have a set of wilwoods on my 66, 6-piston fronts, 4-piston rears. They work fine, and can work a lot better if I went to a more aggressive pad. My old track weapon was a 2001 Camaro SS and the Wilwood setup on there was an SL4 setup and it was beastly with the Polymatrix A pads I would put in for track days.

My old Camaro setup. 2-piece rotor, with aluminum hat.


My current setup (you can see the fronts anyways)
 

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There's only one sure fire solution to rear disc brakes on a track car and we make it.



 

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when i win the lottery, will be getting that streetortrack rear setup

i had a 91 mustang with an 8.8" rear and it is a C clip rear- i removed the clips to pull the axles. the brake pedal would sometimes be soft with my wilwood fixed piston rear calipers for the reasons mentioned above.
i hope my traditional ford 9" rear with standard axles and large bearings will hold up to g forces on the track. certainly the streetortrack rear would be an upgrade!
 

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I looked into baer vs wilwood. I can only speak to my 66. The wilwood set up pushes the hub (hat) out 1/4", which in turn, pushes your wheels out. Baer does not, it keeps the same hub position, which allows you to run the same wheels. The hub offset is a critical question to ask, because it may make your current wheels...useless. a 1/4" wheel offset is huge on some of these cars, especially when your talking bigger wheels and tires.
 

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i hope my traditional ford 9" rear with standard axles and large bearings will hold up to g forces on the track. certainly the streetortrack rear would be an upgrade!
Your 9" with big bearings will certainly hold up to track abuse. However, it will still be susceptible to pad knock back if you run a fixed caliper. I've driven several 9" equipped big end cars with fixed calipers and they all suffer knock back to various degrees. On a road course it's not too bad as you almost always have plenty of time between corners to tap the brakes with your left foot on corner exit and take the slack back up before you actually need to brake again. On an autocross not so much.

On the street it will be fine.
 

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If you want to keep the 15" wheels you are limited in you choices. As Grabber70Mach suggested SoT would be my first choice. I use Wilwood when no other choices are available. Currently on re-fabricating my my hydro clutch setup. I tend to find the made in USA on their parts cringeworthy as I send them back to Summit.
Based on the pictures of SoT's calipers on their site most of their disc brake kits use private label Wilwood calipers.
 

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Your 9" with big bearings will certainly hold up to track abuse. However, it will still be susceptible to pad knock back if you run a fixed caliper. I've driven several 9" equipped big end cars with fixed calipers and they all suffer knock back to various degrees. On a road course it's not too bad as you almost always have plenty of time between corners to tap the brakes with your left foot on corner exit and take the slack back up before you actually need to brake again. On an autocross not so much.

On the street it will be fine.
I have this issue with my 8". I think the solution is going to be a 2lb or 4lb residual pressure valve. I will buy both, start with the 2lb, if that works Im good. If not, I'll step up to the 4lb.
 

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i am not familiar with pad knock-back on 9" rears, but when I had fixed calipers (dynalites) on my 91 mustang with 8.8" rear (which had C clips axles, which move a lot more than a 9" axles), a residual pressure valve was not enough to overcome the knock back. For street use, it was a little annoying but fine (pedal was not always the same pressure), but I would never do that for track use. Over time, Ford must have figured something out here, because they used that 8.8 rear for many years, and there must have been fixed calipers at some point from the factory on the rears? not even sure what they use now, but i can tell you that rear pad knock back certainly isnt a problem with independent rear setups.
 

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i am not familiar with pad knock-back on 9" rears, but when I had fixed calipers (dynalites) on my 91 mustang with 8.8" rear (which had C clips axles, which move a lot more than a 9" axles), a residual pressure valve was not enough to overcome the knock back. For street use, it was a little annoying but fine (pedal was not always the same pressure), but I would never do that for track use. Over time, Ford must have figured something out here, because they used that 8.8 rear for many years, and there must have been fixed calipers at some point from the factory on the rears? not even sure what they use now, but i can tell you that rear pad knock back certainly isnt a problem with independent rear setups.
C-Clip eliminators for fixed calipers with the 8.8 is your best bet.

 
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