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Discussion Starter #1
So I've recently lost control of my project (Who am I kidding? I bought a throttle body EFI 3 years ago and an update wiring harness 5 years ago...). Anyway, I picked up an uninstalled Digital Guard Dawg - iKey-RS on eBay for a song...so now I'm planning power locks and windows. Anyone have any experience with window automation (IE: roll up when alarm armed, one touch up/down, etc)?

I'm leaning towards the DEI 535T, but Directed is notoriously bad on product support if you're not an installer. The interwebs suggests it's the best unit on the market, but lack of support has me on the fence (although the install looks rather straightforward). Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm known to elicit such a response. :)

Basically, just adding modern, electric window features. More common in the alarm system install world sort of thing.
 

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Interesting and following. Before installing the alarm control system, have you chosen what motorized window regulator system to use? I have heard nightmare stories about installation of such where the motorized regulators are universal (supposed PnP) and when installed on the 65-68 years they do not provide enough adjustment to allow proper window alignment. Curious as to what you have found.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Unfortunately, I'm a ways off from installing either, but I did buy the Nu-Relics units at a very fair price. I talked with the owner on the phone after my purchase, and while I won't say the business is highly polished, I was very happy with the experience. In the end, I felt extremely confident the product would perform as designed and that I would have any tech support I needed going forward specific to my install (though he wasn't super familiar with the automation units). All reports I've heard of NuRelics have been positive, and they use a much more powerful motor (with "lifetime warranty") than the units I often hear have issues. Oh, and the power window business sounded a side gig. I think he runs a restoration shop. Which at least means he uses his products with regularity (likely).

Also...I feel like I've seen you on a couple EPS posts with some very clean conversion...So I may have to pick your brain later about that (if my memory is serving me well these days, that is...:))
 

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I don't know of a specific power-window controller that offers auto-up/down and other modern features. It's a more complex design problem than you might expect.

"Infinity Box" (formerly "ISISPower", renamed for obvious reasons) is the ultimate aftermarket vehicle wiring setup. Somebody in the "Build" forum used the InfinityBox / ISISPower system to do a crazy high-tech build, but I can't recall who that was....




InfinityBox is a modern CAN bus system. There are tons of cool advantages to this centralized system including less large-gauge wire, easier to debug, design safety, security, and easy expansion.

However, it is not for Neo-Luddites who hate computerization. And while it's not brain-surgery difficult to use, it's a relatively expensive approach. I think the entry price is around $1,500 plus tax for power windows/doors. On the other hand, that may be a decent price since it includes a full wiring harness you'd need anyway.

Personally, I'd only adopt it for a system design with lots of fancy features. If you want power windows, power locks, power top, intermittent wipers, remote start, EFI pump control, and so forth, then it's cheaper (and better) to "Go All In" from the start rather than build separate systems.

With those caveats, the "inMotion" module limits motors automatically via current sensors. When the window goes to the end-of-travel (or you dog's head is in the way!), the motor resistance causes excess current draw, and the computer instantly stops the window.

They also offer a programming interface so you can customize the behavior. So in theory, you can program the interior and exterior LED lights to stay on for 3 minutes after the car shuts down, then slowly dim them. Or the headlights can blink once of "on" and twice of "off" when the security system is enabled or disabled.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I dunno man. I bought the security/passive keyless entry/remote start system for less than $130 shipped. If I throw in the $54 DEI 535t to automate the windows...I'm still under $200 and it looks like the cheapest option there is over $1000. It looks like a neat system, and the packaging would certainly be nice...but I don't know that it would simplify anything enough to justify the expense.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have a little, but haven't pursued it very far. I'm actually already putting in a Raspberry Pi for music/navigation.phone control, and I programmed a micro controller to manage console mounted inputs (IE: rotary encoder volume control, next song, answer phone, etc). Touch screen is bad for that sort of stuff while driving, in my opinion. Lots of reading and learning on that one, but it works well on the ole test bench. I even designed/3d printed a box for the controls to mount under the console and a display enclosure that secures through the standard console knob holes with 3D printed thumbscrews (though still refining the design). Should be pretty slick when polished, but that's on the back burner now that it's roughed in/functional and concept has been proved.

That being said, I have enough left to do with the project that I'm not particularly interested in developing a DIY solution unless someone has a walk-through already. Especially since the aftermarkets ones are not particularly pricey.
 

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You may wanna check the build threads I recall seeing one can’t seem to find it now where someone did tons of upgrades like this, power locks, windows, seats,ac, heat, steering wheel everything.
 

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I'd definitely vote for Nu-Relic. I recently installed it on my '68 and had now problems. They are well built and, what's important, they have a helper spring to help motor with upward movement. The cheaper ones I bought earlier failed quickly. I'm using a Russian power controller which has manual/auto mode, stops calibration and memory function - if window were down before your locked your car, it will roll them up, and if the car is unlocked within 4 hours, it will roll them down to the position before locking.
 

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When I installed electric windows in my 69 Fastback, I modified things so they can do auto up and down as well as manual up and down.

I used BMW E39 window switches. These are probably very common in design to a lot of modern cars out there. I just happened to have the BMW and they looked good and I got some used ones for my Mustang. The up and down action has 2 depths you can press them to. Lightly to the first click for up and down as long as you are pressing it and harder to the second click for up and down automatically.

But these switches alone do not make the automatic operation work. They just give the signals for what you want to happen.

I added a microswitch at the bottom of the door on the rubber block that the window goes down to when it is fully down. And I added 2 microswitches at the top of the door for when the window is fully up. I used 2 at the top so 1 is at the front of the window and 1 is at the back of the window. This is because I found the mechanism might bring the front or back of the window up slightly before the other. So my logic requires both microswitches to be activated to know the window is fully up.

So the logic I used to control all of this. I was thinking about an Arduino and I have one gathering dust that would be an ideal candidate. But I wanted to keep things really simple. So I used a bunch of relays to act as latching logic gates that can be set or reset like a flip flop ( if you are into electronics ).

I designed the logic needed to control the windows for up and down for manual and automatic mode ( depending on how you press the buttons ). And then converted this logic into relays. And it works perfectly. I put the relays onto stripboard ( I might etch a PCB one day ). Special attention was paid to the fact that these electric window motors can draw quite a few amps and all wiring, relays and stripboard connections are beefed up to cope with this.

Yes, I have probably made a sledgehammer to crack a nut and there is probably something already out there to buy. But electronics is one of my many other hobbies, so this was a nice project to do and adds more enjoyment to working on my car.

Not sure if this is the sort of thing you want to do. It could easily be modified to work from an alarm to wind the windows up when you arm it. I can post some pictures if you want to see more of what I did. But this is no afternoon project and I worked on this for many days. The small brackets to hold the microswitches was probably the most work. And I wanted the microswitches to be adjustable in their position so I could fine-tune where they activate so the window does not go too far or not enough.
 

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...but I don't know that it would simplify anything enough to justify the expense.
Just to get power window controls, I agree. I just wanted to let you know it's out there. But if you have other modern features planned, then it can save a lot of time and money and produce a more reliable system overall.

I'm using a Russian power controller which has manual/auto mode, stops calibration and memory function - if window were down before your locked your car, it will roll them up, and if the car is unlocked within 4 hours, it will roll them down to the position before locking.
Do you have any links to this product? A return-to-position feature is really hard to do cheaply. You'd either need a servo motor with super-precise control, or some sort of position sensor for the glass. I'd love to know how they did that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Here are the instructions for the 535T. It offers a lot of features, like venting, 2-way, one-touch up and down, and remote control (via security system). It's cheap and adds a lot of features, from what I can tell.


I also have the Digital Guard Dog iKey & NuRelics. Have not installed either but was planning to use this for One-Touch window operations.

You'll have to keep me posted on how it goes. I hope to be installing by end of summer...but not much on this project has kept to it's timeline up to this point... :). I considered the Autoloc unit, but it requires 2 units to operate both windows. So from a cost perspective it's more expensive than the DEI and offers fewer features, I believe. I did like talking with their tech support, though, which is a big plus in my book.
 

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Do you have any links to this product? A return-to-position feature is really hard to do cheaply. You'd either need a servo motor with super-precise control, or some sort of position sensor for the glass. I'd love to know how they did that.
I guess they use the time. After installation you calibrate it - roll the window to the uppermost and lowest positions. So I guess the module remembers the time it takes for the full travel thus can approximate part of it.
It's Russian-made and only links to Russian sites are available
MAKS 2 power window control module
There's a video about it

 
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