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Discussion Starter #1
I am about to replace the windshield in my 67. Yesterday as I was replceing some interior parts I applied some pressure to the drivers side top framework and noticed some movement in the inside corner trim on the header was wondering if someone who has finished this project might have an idea of my possible problems I might find? Also would like to know if anyone has experienced bad water leaks inside that appear to be around the cowl area but not from the cowl itself. Know nothing about this car as only had it about 3 months. Car appears to have had a restoration at some point in the way back past and for the most part is in great shape. Would like to say thanks to any and all info out forward.
 

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Look for rust all along the pinch that the gasket rides on. Not unusual to find rust there. You in a salt water environment? Could be pretty bad. Will not know until you pull the windshield and trim.
 

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A lot of interior leaks originate from the windshield seal. Water will take the path of least resistance so it will run along the edge of the leaking seal until it comes out behind the dash. The glass has to have a seal on it's side of the seal strip and also on the body side.
 

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A lot of interior leaks originate from the windshield seal. Water will take the path of least resistance so it will run along the edge of the leaking seal until it comes out behind the dash. The glass has to have a seal on it's side of the seal strip and also on the body side.
Also, you shouldn't get movement in the pillars for the windshield. You will probably have to remove some trim pieces to see if the pillar has cracked where it joins the body.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also, you shouldn't get movement in the pillars for the windshield. You will probably have to remove some trim pieces to see if the pillar has cracked where it joins the body.
The pillars are not moving. The movement I saw was the corner interior piece of trim on the windshield header
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Look for rust all along the pinch that the gasket rides on. Not unusual to find rust there. You in a salt water environment? Could be pretty bad. Will not know until you pull the windshield and trim.
No I am in the Birmingham Ala metro area and I think this car is a local car as I found a front bumper bracket from a ford dealership that was in B'ham and it had a 1982 date on it.Found evidence that appeared someone had repaired the cowl with what appeared to be por15 as it was pushed out several small holes in the cowl under the dash. Purchased a new cowl assembley to do a repair but really would to drive the car some after finishing some of the upgrade to get it to a point I feel ok about driving it in todays traffic. Trying to delay the cowl replacement as long as I can because I suspect it will be a drawn out repair with no more body repair experience than I have but being retired from a real job gives me more time for such things than before.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Started the windshield replacement my 67 on sat found that the caulk around the glass was shot also no rope caulk in the gasket on the pinch weld. All seam sealer from a cowl repair has let go on ends of cowl. I'll try & post pictures later. Don't know if this was a cheap repair but it has left me in the lurch
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Need some input have applied rust neutralizer to all rusted areas on and around the windshield frame on my 67 vert do I prime over the neutralized metal and then apply seam sealer to the end joints of the cowl and sides of the firewall or seal first then prime everything? Suspect that the seam sealer had let go because of the windshield pillar flexing when power was accidentally applied to the power top switch over the years causing movement of the pillar and end of the cowl assembley as end of the cowl and pillar are brazed together.also should I try to fill the lower corners of windshield frame or just pour the caulk behind the gasket and frame when I'm caulking the glass? Don'know any of these answers as this one and 1 more will be 2 I have put glass in.
 

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It should NOT be moving, If so You have a problem, They should be spot welded together, the brace is just a seam filler. As for the seam sealer when to apply, You need to read the label, they are different on how to use, some primer before, some after, some not at all. The caulking you have to work in AFTER the rubber seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My son in law & I got the new windshield in installed yesterday & I got it caulked in with the 3 m bedding& glazeing compound. . Working on sealing the multiple seams on the driver side of the cowl from a past cowl repair that were apparently the source of the water leak thru the fresh air vent. Suspect that the old sealer had broken loose due to the power top switch being accidentally hit with the top latched & flexing the windshield post( have did it myself). As soon as I can leak check it will work on the new interior windshield chrome& carpet.
 

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CoNgRaTuLaTiOnS on your car, getting the job done, and hope to see you on the road sometime. I was born in B'ham, from an area near Anniston originally, and live in SE Alabama with family near Gardendale as well. And I do drive my Mustang there on occasion.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you sir. Hopeing to get it to where I feel like I can take a few road trips in the near future. Maybe we will cross paths at some time in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After leak checking the new windshield found the car still had a leak thru the fresh air vent. Removed the vent assembley & found the top hat has holes rusted thru . The cowl &mounting flange for the vent appear ok ,after getting the crud out of the cowl I plan on useing a rust neutralizer on the existing top hat& lower part of the cowl. The I'll bolt the new top hat& ring I fabbed up from 16 ga. metal on probably use Rtv sealant between the old&new flange as a gasket then use an old brush and rake as much por15 as I can off on the old top hat to the inside of the cowl and let it go where it will then I plan on filling the space between the two assembleys with por15. May try to pump some por15 thru the 1" hole on the cowl end at the top of the hat for a better seal .The fix should outlast me . Good news is did'nt see any leaks on the windshield. Same as always 2 steps forward& 1 step back.
 

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Hope you get some pics up at some point. I am dealing with almost the same issues with my 67 vert, It leaks into the glove box area and seems to be comming from around the windshield seal. I have Also noticed some flex in the a pillar if you tweak the power top at the wrong point Always figured I would look for stress cracks when I eventually tear it apart to re do the cowl.
how hard was it to remove the stainless windshield trim? Did it go back together ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sure hope that there is no surprise waiting for me when it's time to pull the old carpet although I have seen no signs of any floor pan issues while working on the trans& gas line.
Hope you get some pics up at some point. I am dealing with almost the same issues with my 67 vert, It leaks into the glove box area and seems to be comming from around the windshield seal. I have Also noticed some flex in the a pillar if you tweak the power top at the wrong point Always figured I would look for stress cracks when I eventually tear it apart to re do the cowl.
how hard was it to remove the stainless windshield trim? Did it go back together ok?
The stainless was not so hard to remove but would have been easier with a different tool. I've seen them that look like a spread apart y. Should be a lot easier to slide it between the gasket & trim and push the trim out of the clips. Take care when removing as I have not found any reproduction stainless trim for sale only polished alumn. The trim has a small lip that slides under the clips .Side pieces slide out to the side basically on the same plane as the windshield front surface lower trim kind of on the plane of the hood & up a little. Found the moulding clips at Kentucky Mustang. The a pillar movement probably won't be a issue as I bumped the top switch numerous times while working in the area around it & the latched top flewed the pillars enough that I thought it would be an issue but didn't find anything when i tore it down. Don't rember ir I took any pictures of the clips before we put the windshield back in & I caulked it but I'll look& post them if I did. If not then any pictures I take now the clips are pretty much made invisible by the caulk. One thing I can do is post some pictures of the windshield as it's taped around the perimeter with the clip positions marked then you can have an idea where they are at. Have not reinstalled the trim but should be easier than taking it off.My vert also leaked thru the gasket on the glove box. It appears that most of if not all the water on the drivers side is from the top hat in the cowl . Have a new cowl assembley but am not going there right now as anything I do to it is in the gravel drive as I have no shop. Plus I want to drive it some before i tear it down to do that if ever . I'll try & post the pictures after i get home from a couple of ac service calls hope they help , nothing like working in the blind. One side note i used a gasket from CJ pony in hindsight wished I had used the gasket that came with the new windshield think it might be a better quality . Also take your time when you install the glass especially when you are working the string around the lower corners. Do not use polyurethane to seal the gasket to the car use 3 m bedding& glazeing compound check summit.​
 

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The cowl is a structural member of the body, and if it's damaged by rust it will be weakened, especially on a coonvertable. About the only solution to a rusted cowl is replacement. No amount of por15 or sealer can fix a rusted cowl for long.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I know & agree with what you say but with the top hat being where the visible damage is if I can do a temporary fix that lasts for some time so as to be able to drive it then I'm good with it. Maybe by the time I feel I really need to replace the cowl( I know it needs it now in truth) I'll have a shop & can do the cowl& repaint.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The directions I gave to remove the a .

pillar trim was incorrect when you find the clips pull it kind of up away from the a pillar. I'll try to post some pictures of the clips and the trim that will show the lips that slide under the moulding clips. Don't know what the difference is in the moulding clips but they apparently are specific to the certs. If I were you I think I would look at the y looking trim removal tool I mentioned as the clip tool I ordered from cjpony and used left a few small outward dents in my lower trim but I can live with them . There are 8 clips across the bottom trim & 3 up each a pillar. If I can post the pictures the arrows on the tape are where the clips are located..might as well order the a pillar weather stripping moulding as I don't think you'll remove it intact. Since I'm replacing all the interior chrome trim on the windshield I ordered all the interior trim screws from CJ pretty cheap & all mine looked bad any way. I think I had to order some coupe roof weatherstripping screws as the 4 that hold the a pillar weather stripping were in rough shape where the screw driver goes when I got them out had more than I needed but cheap enough it did'nt matter. If this is a daily driver you might want to check and order your parts as there is no way you'll want to be driving it with the weather stripping off the a pillars. If you have any questions you think I might can help with contact me at [email protected] or message me at 205 329 5389 and I can send the pictures to you.Good luck & hope it does not grow into more.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Got all the new interior windshield trim chrome parts in & was able to finish the work on the windshield replacement and the cowl leak. So far so good found a eng. Cleaner that is air powered & siphons cleaner at harbor frieght that I was able to use to spray por15 around the top hats with inside the cowl not as good as a cowl replacement but if it buys me some driving time I'm good with it. Found no issues with the windshield post think the movement is the hydraulic top pump flexing it when I accidentally hit it. Finished on the windshield in& out all in all I like how it turned out.
 

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Thanks for all the detail. I don’t know how soon I will dive into this on my car. I keep it garaged, and only take it out when weather is nice.
 
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