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Discussion Starter #1
I got a nice reasonable paint estimate from my local body shop that's owned by 2 talented classic car guys. She goes in on March 2nd for candy apple red and clear coat. The next few days, I'm finishing up some interior prep - steel rear divider, headliner removal, foil insulation, etc. Her new wheels and tires are ready to go as well. Hopefully I can make it to the Glen for opening day to run her with some of you guys. Can't wait! The pic is her now - I'll be posting the results.
20190527_152448.jpg
 

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She’s looking good just like she is now!!
Can you give me some details on the steel divider your putting in?
 

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Yeah, looks real nice as she is. Glad you’re excited, I’m she’ll be a knockout.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, but close up, the poorly done paint job by the P. O. is sad. The steel divider replaces the flimsy cardboard behind the rear seat. Gives a little more structural strength and some protection from fumes. I got it from NPD. Easy to install, it comes with sheet metal screws but I'm going with pop rivets.
Screenshot_20200222-084843_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

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I would not rivet it in, You may want to use a hex head screw so it can be removed easily.
 

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When I installed the divider panel in my 69 Coupe I bolted it in.
745275
 

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CoNgRaTuLaTiOnS on getting a makeover for your girl!!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The shop guys told me that pop rivets would be the best but I see your point about being able to remove it if needed. My only concern is the screws sticking out in the back might injure anyone working in the trunk. I don't foresee needing to remove it since the rear shock bolts are easy to access now.
 

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If the screws stick out too far , just put some vacuum caps on them .
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Here's the panel, I just got done installing it - with rivets. I then used fire block caulk around the edges. The bar in the middle is 1/8 x 1 inch bar stock, fastened with JB Weld. It gives a little more rigidity and after the insulation goes on you won't see it.
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Looks nice. Personally , I’d pop rivet the bar .
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I might pop the bar. JB is supposed to be about the best stuff on the planet but I guess it's like a belt and suspenders. ☺
And also, the trunk facing side is painted matte black. FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Virus update, 14 April -
Diane is primed and ready for blocking. Shop says she will be in the paint booth tomorrow or Thursday. With nice weather coming and hopefully the end of this imprisonment, I'm getting itchy to get her done.
Stay safe, all! ???? 20200414_100029.jpg
 

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Can't wait to get mine close to that stage. Still in the tear apart stage. I have the steel divider also and I'm debating the install process, rivits or bolts. I like the idea of the bar...along with adding some rigidity it seems it will also limit the flexing of the divider.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I was going to use bolts or riv nuts or self tappers but I finally went with pop rivets. I had read somewhere on this forum that the divider would have a drumming sound without some stiffening. I've never welded so the JB Weld was Occam's Razor. I work pretty much alone so finding a welder wasn't an option. I have a crapload of work to do when the paint finished - headliner, stereo wiring, painting the dash, the new carpet - but as long as I'm sidelined it'll keep me off the streets.
 

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Sounds ready good!!! Can’t wait to see it in a new skin of paint!! Actually I can‘t wait to see mine at that point but I think I got a ways to go LOL...
750492
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Haha yeah you're a little while from paint but WOW, nice rotisserie! Did you build it yourself?
 

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No I got it off of eBay on a sale with free shipping. Its really nice as you don’t need to get it way up in the air to attach it.. only thing I made was the pieces to attach it to the car..
They wanted $200 for them and I built them for free and some time to do it.
 
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