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Got my new headers on. I neglected to check everything thoroughly and I drove the car to the store. The starter cable had been sandwiched between the starter and the headers and melted to the headers on the way there. I've replaced and re-routed the cable, but now I see the 1/4" gap that exists between my headers and the starter, and it runs the whole length of the starter.

I REALLY don't want to start burning up starters. Any advice?

I'm using Tri-ys from mustangsunlimited, don't know who made them.

Thanks
-Matt
 

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Buy a high torque PMGR starter from dbelectric on ebay for $50. End of clearance problem, lighter weight, and better cranking...

-Rory
 

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I'd run it like that until the starter dies (if it ever does), then do as others have suggested and put on the mini starter. I have one on my coupe, love it.

MrFreeze
 

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I've run longtubes on a couple of cars and never had an issue with the OEM style starter burning out due to heat.
 

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Starter solenoids get heat soaked but since the solenoid on your car is mounted on the fender and not the starter it shouldn't be a problem.
 

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Header wrap for the offending tubes and a starter heat shield?
This is a cheap and easy way of fixing your problem until you're ready to put in a mini starter (If you ever even decide to). I've done this before, and it does the trick.
 

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Buy a high torque PMGR starter from dbelectric on ebay for $50. End of clearance problem, lighter weight, and better cranking...

-Rory
X2! I have the exact same starter. That sucker even cranks when the battery is low. I used the supplied wire from them for the soleniod and just connected it directly to the main terminal on the starter so I still only have 1 wire from the fender mounted solenoid to the starter like OEM. Works great.
 

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My header actually touches my starter. The headers design will not allow me to remove the starter without taking the header off first. Horrible design but it has not caused me any problems with the starter.
 

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Fyi a good rule of thumb for heat clearance, if its a finger width away, you should be fine. If it makes you sleep at night, wrap the starter or header in a heat shield.
 

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Ps, companies have been developing headers for these cars for decades knowing well that the passenger header comes close to the starter, I'm pretty sure a few engineers thought about this prior and determined it not to be a problem.
 

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+1 on the DB Electrical starter as well, I've got one in my pony and it's great. Takes up so much less space so it won't get heat soaked OR cause issues for my future R&P :)

The good news about Tri-Y's is that you can actually route the starter cable through the bottom 'Y' and it has enough clearance to not get burnt. Keeps you from having a starter cable that runs all over the place trying to avoid the headers. I just bent the end of the starter cable at the ministarter to a 90 degree angle so I could run it straight to the apron solenoid without looping it around in funky places.
 

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Ps, companies have been developing headers for these cars for decades knowing well that the passenger header comes close to the starter, I'm pretty sure a few engineers thought about this prior and determined it not to be a problem.
You know very different engineers than I do.
 

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i think you are running the same headers tri ys i am they are patriots they are really close to the starter but i am not woried about it and either should you i have the orignional starter their is like a 1/4" peice of iron raped around that starter and i used the wrong paint for the headers they only last up to 500 degrees were the headers come out of the engine the paint baked off but at the bottom were the starter is the paint is perfect so it is well under 500 possibly 300 - 400 so you have that and the 1/4" inch gap of cool air and 1/4" of steel that it has to ubsorb into in order to get to the copper so their isnt going to be that much heat getting to it. you should be fine as well as my starter but yea the wire on the other hand is diffrent you dont want that close it will bake the insolation and give you a bad wire.
 
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