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A lot of my street racing buddies used Lakewood universals back when they, TractionMasters (IIRC) and Anson (?) Ground Grabbers were the hot ticket for wheel hop control. Only thing I can remember was having to weld on a specific shock mount in some applications.
I used the Lakewood J-bolt competition bars on my street racer with good success.....

As long as the snubber contacts the spring near the eye and the bolts fit, I don't see why you can't use the universal units. Over 100 bucks (for the dedicated units) is a lot of money to pay for a few pieces of metal and some powder coating, eh? *G*

It's been a long time since I've used traction bars so wait for more current opinion before pushing that order button..*G*
 

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The universal ones will work fine if trying to control wheel hop. The only problem I had with them was keeping the tight on the springs.I removed them and installed a set that replaced the lower shock mount (#21602).I did not like them because they seem to take the ride away from the car.I finally installed a set of Competition Engineering slide a link and really like them the best. Only problem is they are over $300. If interested I still have the Lakewood #21602 bars that I would sell shipped to you for $85. They are like new with less than 20 miles on them.


69 Mach 1 427 Windsor
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I pushed the button!! If they suck I can always sell em on for a couple houndred. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif I'll let you guys know how they turn out. My traction is pathetic. Im running an open rear(3.0)and an 8 inch, with 5 leafs and air shocks. Thanks for the help.
 

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Lose the air shocks and get some good KYB's or Koni's for the back (and front)...proper harmonic damping and weight transistion control are important keys to achieving good traction and smooth chassis response...

Also, if racing the car occasionally, consider an adjustable pinion snubber to help control axle housing rotation...

My guess is things are so stiff that the tires are just loading and unloading and bouncing all over the place.....and likely little to no weight transfer is taking place to settle the rear suspension....
Pure speculation but somewhat rooted in experience *G*
 
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tip Cam. I need something to keep the fenders off my tires(275)though. I won't go to a smaller tire because it looks perfect to me with the fat tire in back(72 mach). Until I can find something that I could control my ride hight in the rear with, I will stick with the air shocks. And yes, your speculation is right on! Do they make a gas shock with an adjustable ride height? Thanks for the help.
 

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IME, springs should be used to control ride height and shocks should be used to control suspension motion...

I used air shocks many years ago on my street racer with horrible results...I then tried having the springs re-arched and went to a Bilstein adjustable shock absorber and traction improved markedly, particularly when I had the 4.62's in the car..

I haven't used gas-charged shocks so hopefully some other VMF'ers can help you with that.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
For that same price you can get some Shelby style underride traction bars. I use them because they look much better than the "slapper bars". Wheel Hop was completely eliminated on my mustang on hard acceleration.
 

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I would have gone with the Shelby traction bars over the Lakewood's too. The Shelby traction bars really work, and I have heard a lot of horror stories about the slapper bars being ineffective when not properly setup (time consuming).
 
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Discussion Starter #10
I have asked about the shelby bars. And I was told they would only fit 65=70. I drive a 72. Will they fit?
 
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