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Gone but never forgetten
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I thought I still had some electrical issues with Scary because of the wacky lights. The left front turn signal didn't work, the right front parking light didn't work, the right hood scoop turn signal didn't work, and the license plate light didn't work.

Turns out, all but the hood scoop were bulbs (yes, 3 bad bulbs at of a possibility of 3 ... brake/tail lights are LED's now). Hood scoop just turned out to be a ground connection. What I thought was going to be a PIA to track down ended up being a piece of cake.

Oh, and I checked my Rev limiter today, and I have the 6k limiter in there. It's a little odd to me that it was kicking in at 5500, because I'm pretty sure that I have the 6k limiter in my '66 as well, and have shifted it at the track beyond 5500 and never felt the limiter in that car. Think I'll just leave the 6k limiter in the '69 for now, and just change it when I go to the dyno or the track (I'll put a 7k one in to avoid it cutting in at 5500).
 

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Not surprising that a 6k rev limiter kicks in at 5500. I remember when those digital control box's first started offering the rev limiters, it was 1k either way. I thought they had improved them? Good idea about the 7k chip though! ken
 

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I noticed the limiter chips I have for my MSD 6AL kick in at 2-300 rpms less than what they are rated for. I have the 6,900 chip in now and it cuts out around 6,600.
I thought I had just got a bad batch of chips.
 

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There is a reason for the rev limiter kciking in a little sooner. On my pull, the 6000 RPM started to hit at 5800 RPM. The idea is not let the car rev past the setting. It has to start happening a little before to prevent hitting the max. It's better that way as the you feel the limiter before it completly kills the engine.
 

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John, Are you running a shift light? If not, get one!

Eric
 

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"The idea is not let the car rev past the setting. It has to start happening a little before to prevent hitting the max."


I hadn't thought of that way :wall: Makes sense to me.
 

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My Mallory rev-limiter is the same way...
kicks in about 200 RPM early.
 

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It's very rewarding to button up nagging little things such as that. I spent a week going through my car making sure that everything worked from wipers, radio, heater,and the lights all around the car. BTW the damn clock has quit working AGAIN :wall:, I think the fix is to put a clockless panel in the 1970.
It was amazing how much better it makes you feel when driving the car. Everybody should do this every few years.
 

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BTW the damn clock has quit working AGAIN :wall:, I think the fix is to put a clockless panel in the 1970.
Yeah tell me about it. I did the quartz converion on my clock and i have to smack the dash pad everytime i get in the car in order for the clock to go. Seems it gets tired and takes a break until i kick it's butt. :lol:

John, wish my electrical gremlins were that easy. I'm still suffering from the turn signal lamps in the hood and cluster being on when the headlights are on. I'm gonna change the front turnsignals that mount to the bumper and make sure they are getting a good ground. It's been months of checking and still haven't came up with anything.
 
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