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Thanks Vegas,,, 3 songs,,,, wow youve done this before lol
I was using a dewault single speed 5 inch DA,,, no bueno,,,, heading to Harbor freight to get a 6inch Air DA today.
No don't do that, you'll be returning just as fast as you left to bought it. Don't even bother taking it out of the packaging. Cheap pneumatic DAs suck. I hate pneumatic DAs period. You want their electric buffer and get some hook and loop 6" 80 sanding discs off Amazon for it.
The newer Baxter branded HF air sanders are good. They compare favorably to the entry level Aircat. Not quite a Dynabrade but still good particlaurly for the money. I would avoid the Central Pneumatic line.

What @Lizer says about electric is spot on. My compressor runs flat out and after 20 mins I need to let it charge back up for a few mins. At that point I usually need to take a break anyway. You can use the electric for buffing as well. HF has a cheap one but I think the Porter Cable is the best value. It’s less torque and less RPM than a purpose built air DA but you can do double duty.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Gentlemen wow,
I am never going back to a DA again,
@Lizer you said dont use the angle grinder but if I do use the wire wheel.. OMFG. I stripped more in a few hours today than I did all weekend with my 5 inch DA.
Im worried that I will finish before the Epoxy primer gets delivered. I forgot who reommended it but I wiped it down with wax and grease remover and its stationed in my garage in Sunny California,,,, should be fine. Hopefully the primer will be here by the weekend
 

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Gentlemen wow,
I am never going back to a DA again,
@Lizer you said dont use the angle grinder but if I do use the wire wheel.. OMFG. I stripped more in a few hours today than I did all weekend with my 5 inch DA.
Im worried that I will finish before the Epoxy primer gets delivered. I forgot who reommended it but I wiped it down with wax and grease remover and its stationed in my garage in Sunny California,,,, should be fine. Hopefully the primer will be here by the weekend
You’re going to need a DA. The question is if it’s air or electric. Once the paint comes off you’ll need to abrade the metal with 180 grit to get enough bite for the primer, according to the tech sheet. The wire wheel will be too smooth. You’ll also need a DA for others stages in the paint and body.
 

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A rotary pattern will remove paint faster than a random orbit, as I was taught by my paint mentors. The only thing I use orbital for in my shop is the polisher for the 3000 trizact. I use a rotary buffer for compounding and polishing and sanding. But you have to be careful with rotary sanding because at that point it's a grinder, and 80 grit on a rotary buffer and you're grinding metal if you're not careful.

I do have a Dewalt electric DA like you have and I just use that for putting tooth back into something. So what I would do if I were you is take your DeWalt with 80 grit and DA over the areas you've gone over with your wirewheel. It will just put tooth back into the metal for your primer to adhere to. That 5" DA is nice as well if you want to take a lot of body out of a pile of filler you put on the car so you don't sit there all day block sanding it.

One word of caution is to not push too hard with the wirewheel because you can stretch the metal on wide open panels like roof tops and tops of hoods just from pushing down on it too hard with the wire wheel. You'll make low spots. Don't ask me how I know. I had to go back a heat shrink a few areas.

About the bare metal, don't sweat it. I have an entire car body that's blasted bare metal, been sitting like that for two years. I'll epoxy it this summer when I start the body work on it. All you need to do is hit it with 80 grit DA before you put your epoxy on. Any rust you get on it between now and then is just flash rust and doesn't matter, it's easily removed, even with a 3M red scuff pad.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Be careful what you ask for, discovered some shody metal work on the driver door, , not looking forward to the other door. Really good BONDO work if I do say so my self, in 2 years i never knew the door had anything wrong with it
 

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Discussion Starter #28
it looks like either damage or a really bad sheet metal job,,,, it was all filled with Bondo. like I said they did a really good job i couldnt even tell anything was wrong with it
 

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12 layer paint job

2 coats epoxy primer
2 coats of filler primer
1 primer sealer
3 coats of base
3 coats of clear

I only need 11 layers for mine I think. Just an observation but if you paint your car yourself you will literally need to accumulate a library of sand paper. Another observation, painting your car is not about painting your car. It is about sanding your car because you spend 99 percent of your paint time nib sanding, scuffing, block sanding, wet sanding, oh and then there is BUFFING, I'm not to buffing yet.

This is an Eastwood video that says paint your car in 4 easy steps. WRONG, LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
fortunately i enjoy the sanding aspect, ive already got sanding blocks and rolls of sandpaper. this,,,, i can do,, im just wondering if i should take it to Maaco and let them spray the paint, when i am done
 

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Discussion Starter #31
So i know everyone on here says choose a system an stick with it. I bought kirker EPoxy an i will hopefully spray that this weekend. I found a great deal on UPOL 2253V. for my urethane 2k primer. Anyone have any experience with these two or have real world experience with this combo.
spray epoxy, then high build primerblock until smooth and finally epoxy again as a sealer. over simplification but does that pretty much sum it up?
 

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So i know everyone on here says choose a system an stick with it. I bought kirker EPoxy an i will hopefully spray that this weekend. I found a great deal on UPOL 2253V. for my urethane 2k primer. Anyone have any experience with these two or have real world experience with this combo.
spray epoxy, then high build primerblock until smooth and finally epoxy again as a sealer. over simplification but does that pretty much sum it up?
I have some of the U-Pol. It’s good though not a thick as the Tamco or as good a coverage but it sands about as easily. At this point I’ve top coated it with TCP and Omni. Good so far. On the Omni job under the U-Pol is Transtar epoxy primer. The TCP was a race car that went direct to metal for the high build.

Your basic layers on an entry level paint job will be...

Seal the bare metal.
Filler.
High build primer.
Seal the high build.
Basecoat.
Clear.

You’ll have a difficult time finding off brand system compatibility here. Better to try someplace like Autobody 101. Great place for both pros and first timers. A pro auto body guy runs the joint and sell products on the side.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
thanks egas i knew i could count on you, i went to the autobody site i got it bookmarked great info there, just came here to see if anyoe had actual experience with thisstuff. Autobody site has a lot of in fighting and people trying to push products.i feel there are real world guys on here
 

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So i know everyone on here says choose a system an stick with it. I bought kirker EPoxy an i will hopefully spray that this weekend. I found a great deal on UPOL 2253V. for my urethane 2k primer. Anyone have any experience with these two or have real world experience with this combo.
spray epoxy, then high build primerblock until smooth and finally epoxy again as a sealer. over simplification but does that pretty much sum it up?
People say to choose a system and stick with it only because that's what they're told, or it's what they've read on a forum somewhere else, not because they have a wealth of practical knowledge stating otherwise. I rarely ever stay with a system all the way through, And you truly don't need to; I mix and match a lot of stuff. Everything today is urethane or polyurethane based, unless you're weird and wanting to do enamel or lacquer.

The manufacturers say that because they're trying to cover their ass, and they can't account for every possible product that could be mixed with theirs.

At the end of the day, the base is largely the same. Where the quality comes in that differentiates the men from the boys is the quality of resins or solids used, the pigment grind, etc.

I agree with you, there's a lot of douchebags on Autobody 101. The hands down best site where you will receive the best advice on painting and body work is the SPI User Forum.
 

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12 layer paint job

2 coats epoxy primer
2 coats of filler primer
1 primer sealer
3 coats of base
3 coats of clear
2 coats high build primer, that's a good one! I spray three coats in a single shot, with 10 min flash in between. Then block sand it down and depending on need, may do another 3 coats then block again. After the last block, I guide coat and do a final block of the same material. This is all with 220, you can do 180 too. After final block, I do another coat and wet sand 400, then 1 coat unreduced epoxy, which is wet sanded 600.

Realistically you'll have filler work after epoxy, which requires another coat of epoxy after the filler work, then your high build.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Hey Lizer thanks for that nugget, I thought it was one of those hard and fast rules for professional quality results.
Side note I went to a guys house to buy some headers about 6 months ago he had a fairlane in his garage with a really good paint job, he sai he did it himself. I was still new to the hobby and I asked him how much he charged, he said oh i dont do this for other people anymore if I did this for someone else this is a $40,000 paint job. I thought thats a lot of money for just paint.
Even this 12 layer paint job you guys are walking me through. 40K come onnnn
 

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$40K paint job means you can't pay him enough to care that much about someone elses car. He took his time, bought the best high end products and over worked everything to perfection into the hundreds and hundreds of hours. $40K doubtful, but $15-20k isnt that hard to find.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
15-20k sure all day long, you find those all the time.i wonder how many people on here charge ore than 20k for a paint job.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Ok all, thanks for all your help. It took me about a week but I finally got the car all stripped, Looks damn good thought abut just spraying clear over it.
Looking at the pics above, I dont want to replace my door, and I know nothing about welding a new skin on the door. So here is my plan and please tell me if I am on the right track, For the mose part it looks like some literally fired a paintball gun at the section of the car. and I see one or 2 small little holes, mayve the size of a pea.
I went to the autobody shop blog and got this idea. Fiberglass(waterproof filler) over the holes.Direct to metal (someone did a writeup apparently filler DTM is stronger than filler over epoxy). Then epoxy primer.high build primer, yada, yada, yada.
Looking at the pics,,,,, thoughts, will this work or does it look to bad and i just need to bite the bullet for a new door.
 

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NPD will ship the door to you out the door $450 honestly if you can pay that pay it or find it somewhere cheaper but yes I’d get a new door personally your times worth something too sometimes it easier to just buy the door and not have to sit there and sand body filler all day!
 
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