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Discussion Starter #122 (Edited)
yea,,,,, it helps keep me motivated,,,, But Im going to take your advice and remove the windshild wipers first then the door handles an locks
 

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Well, don't drive the car in the stages you're at because it introduces contaminants that can really hurt you later.

Removing the door handles and locks is actually quite easy. It's a matter of two nuts for the door handle and unclipping it from the actuator rod.
 

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so here are a few pics after today, i finished the 2nd and 3rd coats,
On the last picture you can see the little grains, not sure what that is from, Overall I am pleased
Those bumps are just from it going on too dry in some spots. I get that occassionally too sometimes, especially when it's very hot outside, but it's not a big deal because they just sand off.

You want to mask off anywhere you don't want this high build urethane primer to go because it will need to be sanded well before it can be topcoated. That includes the cowl grilles, cracks/lines between body lines, the quarter panel ornaments, and any other place that is difficult to sand. Basecoat and clear will not adhere anywhere you have high build primer that has not been sanded. I hate to say it but you've created a real mess for yourself now, and your door handles and windshield wipers will probably need replaced unless you're able to strip them with chemical stripper, which will be a real pain.
 

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Another thread full of excellent advice that I need to subscribe to and reference when I get to this point.

@67 Doctor - I don’t mean to derail this thread but may I ask what hood scoop do you have? Was it already installed or did you install it?
 

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Discussion Starter #126
@One Fast 67...its from a 429 I installed it I had the fiberglass hood before but i wasnt impressed. Found this one on Offer up

@Lizer the handles were going to be replaced anyway I have the new set stiing in a box I have a habit on buying parts when I have the money....
And the windshield wipers ,,, oh well i have to take them off anyway right.
Like they said on AUto Restomod...
Its not a problem its a project.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
So I got the car block sanded today and I got the handles off, havent done the windshield wipers yet.
I have to say I realy like the Upol 2253v urethane primer.. Granted I dont have a ton of experience with the other brands but here is what I liked.
Even without the guide coat I could tell where the high and low spots were. The primer is a medium shade of gray when it is sprayed on, but when it is sanded it turns a lighter shade of gray. Maybe all primers do that but as a noob I really like that feature. With the kirker brand epoxy I didnt like the fact that when it was sanded or when dust got on it , the car looked like crap. Granted I didnt sand down the Kirker so maybe thats why.
So next question,,,, I have one big area that I need to add more filler,,,, other than that most of the car is pretty smooth with a few low spots here and there but nothing deep. Is the thought process that the urethane primer will build up enough to level out any little dings.
Ami I just going to repear this process untill it its all smooth? 3 coats of urethaane primer, block sand until smooth?
Final question, UPOL recommends block sanding with 300 - 400 grit sandpaper. I knew I was going to have to prime again ( plus I didnt have any) So today I used 220, next go round I plan on using 320.... does the grit make that much of a difference, obviously I am not going to use 80 but 220 vs 320 ?
 

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So I got the car block sanded today and I got the handles off, havent done the windshield wipers yet.
I have to say I realy like the Upol 2253v urethane primer.. Granted I dont have a ton of experience with the other brands but here is what I liked.
Even without the guide coat I could tell where the high and low spots were. The primer is a medium shade of gray when it is sprayed on, but when it is sanded it turns a lighter shade of gray. Maybe all primers do that but as a noob I really like that feature. With the kirker brand epoxy I didnt like the fact that when it was sanded or when dust got on it , the car looked like crap. Granted I didnt sand down the Kirker so maybe thats why.
The main factor that determines quality of high build urethane primers (besides their amount of build) is the solid and the amount of shrinkage in that solid. You still need to use guidecoat because once you get the initial surface sanded, you will still have low spots but now you'll lose them unless they're colored in from guide coat.

So next question,,,, I have one big area that I need to add more filler,,,, other than that most of the car is pretty smooth with a few low spots here and there but nothing deep. Is the thought process that the urethane primer will build up enough to level out any little dings.
No, it will fill in scratches and smooths out waviness in the panels as you sight down them from the side. But dings still need filler.

Ami I just going to repear this process untill it its all smooth? 3 coats of urethaane primer, block sand until smooth?
Final question, UPOL recommends block sanding with 300 - 400 grit sandpaper. I knew I was going to have to prime again ( plus I didnt have any) So today I used 220, next go round I plan on using 320.... does the grit make that much of a difference, obviously I am not going to use 80 but 220 vs 320 ?
Yes exactly, wash, rinse and repeat. Spray 3 coats, block it, sand it. If it still needs more, continue to do so. I usually have to go at least 6 coats of high build. By the end you should have most of it sanded off; you don't want excessive mil build on the car or this will cause paint failure problems and spider webbing. Once your final blocking is done, spray guide coat all over the car again and completely reblock once more. In fact, sometimes if it's close, you may not need additional coats of urethane, you may just need to spray more guidecoat and reblock. If you get enough of it on there you can block it until the cows come home.

Here is what you do for block sanding, this will save you a lot of time and you won't have any sanding scratches to cancel out in the end:

  1. block with 220 grit (some people prefer 180)
  2. Once it's completely blocked out and you're all done, spray ONE coat over the entire car. This fills in all your 220 scratches.
  3. Now, wet sand with 400. This will leave you with a perfectly smooth, flawless surface to apply your epoxy sealer, and you don't have to worry about rogue 220 scratches to cancel out. All you have left are 400 scratches that the epoxy will fill in.
  4. Spray 1-2 coats unreduced epoxy sealer (I normally just do one).
  5. Wet sand epoxy 600 grit if you're using a metallic, or 400 grit if you're using a solid base coat. This provides a perfectly clean, dust- and orange peel-free substrate to put your color down on.
It should go without saying to degrease and clean between each step.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Here is what you do for block sanding, this will save you a lot of time and you won't have any sanding scratches to cancel out in the end:

  1. block with 220 grit (some people prefer 180)
  2. Once it's completely blocked out and you're all done, spray ONE coat over the entire car. This fills in all your 220 scratches.
  3. Now, wet sand with 400. This will leave you with a perfectly smooth, flawless surface to apply your epoxy sealer, and you don't have to worry about rogue 220 scratches to cancel out. All you have left are 400 scratches that the epoxy will fill in.
  4. Spray 1-2 coats unreduced epoxy sealer (I normally just do one).
  5. Wet sand epoxy 600 grit if you're using a metallic, or 400 grit if you're using a solid base coat. This provides a perfectly clean, dust- and orange peel-free substrate to put your color down on.
It should go without saying to degrease and clean between each step.
[/QUOTE]

Okay so just for clarification, ignore the UPOL recommendation to sand with 300 to 400 grit You are saying to block with 220 and wet sand with 400 after all of the block sanding is done.
Prior military so I kind of have a thing for following directions lol
 

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Here is what you do for block sanding, this will save you a lot of time and you won't have any sanding scratches to cancel out in the end:

  1. block with 220 grit (some people prefer 180)
  2. Once it's completely blocked out and you're all done, spray ONE coat over the entire car. This fills in all your 220 scratches.
  3. Now, wet sand with 400. This will leave you with a perfectly smooth, flawless surface to apply your epoxy sealer, and you don't have to worry about rogue 220 scratches to cancel out. All you have left are 400 scratches that the epoxy will fill in.
  4. Spray 1-2 coats unreduced epoxy sealer (I normally just do one).
  5. Wet sand epoxy 600 grit if you're using a metallic, or 400 grit if you're using a solid base coat. This provides a perfectly clean, dust- and orange peel-free substrate to put your color down on.
It should go without saying to degrease and clean between each step.
Okay so just for clarification, ignore the UPOL recommendation to sand with 300 to 400 grit You are saying to block with 220 and wet sand with 400 after all of the block sanding is done.
Prior military so I kind of have a thing for following directions lol
[/QUOTE]
The grit isn’t so important moreso it just determines how fast do you want to get there.
If you already have 220 on hand then use that.
By the way the Indasa Rhyno rolls are great for blocking. Fairly inexpensive too and very nice sandpaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #132
So I just took off the windshield wipers, wow that was easy, laid down rag on the hood , got a piece of wood for leverage, slid a hammer under the windshield wiper and rocked it back. Boom came right off,and no dings in the paint
 
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