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Discussion Starter #1
Time to rebuild the old six banger. 1967. A local machine shop will do a full rebuild of entire motor and head including a new crank for $1200--(I need a new crank)This is a shop that does all the work in house. I found a place that will do it for less but they ship the head here and the block there and blah blah blah some guy making 5 bucks an hour ends up wrenching on your motor! Does this sound reasonable? I want to keep the car all original so rebuilding my existing motor is the best idea I think. Your opinions? Also I have heard I should put in bigger valves-I think someone said chevy valves (yikes) Have you heard of this? Thanks
 

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IMO, always deal with a reputable local shop for machine work if possible....get referrals from local racers or your local car club...

Post a message to Inliners attention here or on the Clifford board or here, which is a board where Inliner is currently active...I believe John had to use the name FordInliner on the new VMF because of registration problems...

Pat
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$1200 doesn't sound too bad. Rebuilding 6's can sometimes cost more than 8's due to the super long cam and a long head and block that's more apt to warp. I think you're thinking right in keeping it with a shop that does the work themselves. Use them as a source of information about valve and head upgrades. More than likely they know their stuff.

66 C-code convertible
66 C-code coupe
65 GTO hardtop
76 Nova hatchback
 
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I agree with CA on this one. Take your 6 banger to a shop that does all the work themselves. Piece of mind is worth alot of $$

Full Throttle
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That's not a bad deal if they are going to assemble it and all. You want to stay all original...ok. No one can see what's inside though. Instead of polishing up the old cam go to your local AutoZone or speedshop and order a COMP 260H cam for it. It will give you more power with a good idle and good mileage. There's no telling what size valves you have in there unless you are dead sure the head is original. Sadly, larger valves only seem to help out the big log head unless you do port work.

If you are willing to get into the pockets with a die grinder than I'd opt for some 1.65" intake valves and 1.45" Going any bigger than that won't do any good. Also, lay the combustion chamber wall back around the valves. Especially the intake valve. It is so shrouded that air cam only flow around 270* of the valve. THEN, take the head to your machinist and have them clean it up and put new seats, guides, and valves in it. Has the head been milled before?

John

'68 Coupe
250/C4, 221 Argentine Head
 

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I had my I6 rebuilt last year for around $700, but I did not need a new crank. Also check their warentees. Are you going to install and how does that effect the warentee.

John L. Anschutz
Allen, TX
68 Diamond Blue Coupe - 302
68 Acapulco Blue Coupe - I6 - 200
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$1200.00 is a pretty good deal considering you're getting a new crank and having it completely assembled. I build engines for a living out in California and that's about the going rate for a rebuild of that caliber. The kits for these engines can be a little pricy ,but I believe that's more of a supply and demand problem. I also agree that you should have it done at shop that does all of the work in house that way the quality can be controlled better and nothing gets lost.Also should anything (God forbid) go wrong, there won't be anybody trying to pass the buck as to why the engine failed. Be sure ask them about their warranty policy as well.

Every day is a holiday if you love your job.
 
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