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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. So I have a hydraulic clutch setup from back in the day (the ones where everyone was using CNC master's and slaves). Anyways, I think it may be on it's way out.

I was debating switching to a Z-Bar setup (never had one!) for simplicities sake, but wondering if my R&P u-joint is in the way making it impossible. Any leeway to shift fore/aft? Which holes get used. There appear to be 3 holes in a row on that frame rail.

Thanks guys!


Hard to get oriented but in the first photo you are looking from the front of the brake booster down. There is 1 hole hiding in the shadow, and then the two other holes you an see.

Second photo you are looking down from the one side of the booster (can see the edge in the rh side of the photo).

3rd photo you are looking down from the apron.
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From your pics it’s not looking good. Hard to tell at what point the shaft crosses over where the frame bracket for the Z bar goes. Plus it looks tight at the booster area for the upper clutch pedal rod.

My 66 was auto that I converted to a Toploader 4 speed. I made my own linkage with rod ends. It’s super smooth and has been 100% trouble free for over 10 years
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From the first pic, it "might" be possible by the looks of the 2 frame bolt holes. The factory frame pivot bracket would place the pivot forward of the front hole. The pivot bracket I'm talking about in the lower center of Tom's photo above. I not sure that it would locate the z-bar far enough forward though.
 

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With all that is going on in that area on my car -69 Cougar with Unisteer R&P, headers, brake lines-I didn’t even try to reinstall the Z bar. Hydraulics give you the greatest amount of installation freedom.

Look at the Malwood master cylinder system with your choice of slave cylinder or hydraulic TOB.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks guys. Before I buy parts, would it be helpful if I got a perpendicular photo from underneath maybe? I thought I had a z-bar in a box somewhere but no go. Maybe that would solve any doubt/let me know if it's impossible?

So I have 3 holes in a row, the one closest to the firewall is a blank hexagonal hole. The other 2 could be threaded. Hard for even me to tell where the column crosses over.

1) In a z-bar setup, does the z-bar go forward of the 2 threaded holes? Or in the middle? Back? What does the blank hex hole do?
2) I have heard of people moving the z-bar forward or backwards for clearance. But doesn't it have to line up with the hole in the block?
3)Tom, if I recall, I used the stock hole for the master cylinder, so that shouldn't an issue space wise. Stock 1967 booster if I recall.
4) Doesn't look like the tri-y's would cause a problem, no?
5) wawazat, If impossible, yes, I will r&r my hydraulic system, but I would rather have a mechanical setup on this car.

Thanks gents!
 

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The z bar attachment uses the 2 threaded holes. The pivot of the bar would be located forward of those holes. The Z bar should line up with the engine pivot as much as is possible. Some variance is acceptable.

If you want to get creative and have the ability, it also possible to use a bracket that is bolted to the bellhousing attachment bolts to locate the engine pivot instead of using the factory threaded location. Such an item is used when a modern 302 (which doesn't have the cast-in threaded boss location) is installed. Knowing this (and if there is adequate room to mount a z bar) one could move the Z bar to a new location by making/modifying both new inner and outer brackets.
 

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With a good machine and decent welding skills you can put the "Z-bar" pretty much anywhere you want, and fashion the arms to clear obstructions. On the other hand, replacing your existing clutch master and slave cylinders shouldn't be too big a job, either.... probably the direction I'd take.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've got great welding skills. But I've never seen a z-bar in real life, nor do I own any components. :)
I'd like to get away from the hydraulics if possible. Functionality, does the z-bar not work as well?
Also of note, my engine is a 5.0HO. I just read I will need some sort of 'stud relocation' bracket. Does this move the z-bar fore/aft by chance?
 

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This is what I intend to use with my Explorer 5.0

View attachment 869398
That's a Bronco equalizer bar offset mount. You'll want this, instead....

 

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That's a Bronco equalizer bar offset mount. You'll want this, instead....

That's very clever!
 

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I converted my 65 FB from AOD, to C4, to T5. I have a 5.0 and had to use the Scott drake clutch equalizer bracket. Factory Zbar, and some hooker or hedman long tubes. The factory 65 Zbar had some issues with the headers, but nothing that couldn’t be overcome. I cannot remember if I had to use a different Zbar due to headers? I can’t look as the car is not here now….
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Wish I had a stock z-bar so I could see what kind of interference I'm dealing with. Even if it clears in a static position, I guess I have to worry about it hitting my column when it pivots. gah
 

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I have a couple you can have. Came in box of parts when I bought the car. Left one is probably the original 6 cylinder. Right maybe the one the PO was going to use on T5 he never got around to.
I used a different one.
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I've had the Wild Horse 4X4 EFI Clutch Equalizer Conversion Bracket on my 65 for almost a year now with no issues. It is held in place by just the one bolt. The bracket cannot rotate towards the Z-bar because it holds it in place, and if it were to rotate towards the block, there isn't much room there before hitting up against the block. In the second scenario, I could see that causing a misalignment with the z-bar, but that could be taken care of fairly simply as I was able to install this with the headers on. I have a few thousand miles on this setup and it has worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have a couple you can have. Came in box of parts when I bought the car. Left one is probably the original 6 cylinder. Right maybe the one the PO was going to use on T5 he never got around to.
I used a different one.
Thanks man! Do we know what year it is for? (I assume 66). But I can only assume it is different for a 1967 (which I have)?
 
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