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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Re-Re-Re adjusting my Z bar trying to cure a Clutch chatter/start-up shudder problem in 1st gear. Trying to get the Z bar perpendicular (sp) to the block like it says in the manual. I cannot get the last bit of slant out of it. The frame bracket need to move slightly forward. Problem is the there is no (very little ) adjustment fore/aft being it is not slotted in that direction. Think it would be OK to scallop the holes out slightly (1/16-3/32) so I can get it perfect or should I leave well enough alone and hope it solved my chatter problem?
 
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Have you checked for loose motor/trans mounts? My sons 69 had this problem. Tightening them and new u-joints fixed the shudder. Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Bob-- Went out a checked and I think I have a bad DS motor mount. I see some seperation. Now I have to figure out if its really bad and how to change.
 

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Regarding your motor mount change situation. A crane on the engine is the best and safest way. No need to remove the engine, all you need to to is to lift the weight of the engine with the crane. The minute you see movement upward, stop, disconnect the mount and change it. Yes, you can start with the car on jack stands just be sure they are securely set. You can also accomplish it using a floor jack and a wooden prop (or welded steel prop) on the side of the engine from the bottom but its a lot more dangerous and does not allow any room for error (prop can fly out and hurt you). Crane rentals are cheap, so rent a crane if you don't have one and you'll have it done in about an hour. My advice is to use Lakewood Muscle motor mounts. They have torque limiting and you'll never need to replace them again.

Regarding your z-bar misalignment. Don't know why you have misalignment and you can investigate that after replacing the motor mounts. Its possible your bad mount accounts for the displacement of the z-bar. What you want to achieve with the z-bar is movement directly in line with the clutch pushrod. This should translate to movement of the lower arm directly in line with the fork. If you have any misalignment from lateral to the body, then both the upper and lower arms move in an arc (and this is bad news because it takes away from your clutch pedal's total stroke potential). There's a bit of trigonometry here but take my advice. When its cocked, you get all sorts of wierd problems and nothing good for clutch action. It also leads to z-bar failure since side loads are imposed on the arms...they are designed and welded for linear movement.
 
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