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Discussion Starter #1
I'm strongly considering a T5 swap this winter. I've read all the issues on here with hydrolic, vs cable, vs Z bar and I think I'm gonna go with the Z bar linkage.....unless someone here strongly convinces me otherwise. Modern Driveline gave me a quote with all their hydrolic stuff but from what I've read about leaking, I'm not sure I want to go that route.



Does anyone have a picture of their engine bay showing the Z bar set up? I'm trying to see where it all links to. I've looked at a some exploded diagrams but a picture is worth a thousand words as they say!
 

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The Z bar pivots on 2 "ball studs". One is bolted to the top of the frame rail under the steering box and the other one screws into a hole in the side of the engine block. Very simple.
 

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If you modify your car to include exhaust headers or some aftermarket rack and pinion steering, the Z-bar might require some modification to work in that crowded space. Otherwise, you should be fine.
 

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I have a new Ron Morris cable set up that I am removing from my car as it interferes with my tri- y headers too much. Let me know if your interested.
 

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In Woody's diagram above parts A8, A9, A10 and A14 are the frame rail ball stud and parts A8, A9, A14, A16 and A17 are the engine ball stud.
 

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In my opinion all solutions have pros and cons. The Z bar is very simple and reliable, but can interfere with exhaust headers or steering components as stated by Jeff before. You also need a different Zbar dependent if you have stock manifold or HiPo. Cables can also get burned at the exhaust because of the loop from the firewall to the clutch. You are more flexible with the hydraulic line, but there is a risk of leaking at one point and the price.


What is your current setup (exhaust and steering) and what are your future plans?
 

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I'm also doing C4 to TL conversion using stock designed components from Opentracker. I have the transmission and engine installed but haven't gotten a chance to install the linkage yet. I did the roller bearing mod to my clutch pedal and will be using rod ends on my clutch linkage and perhaps my shifter linkage as well.
 

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I'm also doing C4 to TL conversion using stock designed components from Opentracker. I have the transmission and engine installed but haven't gotten a chance to install the linkage yet. I did the roller bearing mod to my clutch pedal and will be using rod ends on my clutch linkage and perhaps my shifter linkage as well.
Make sure you do your homework on this conversion. There are MANY threads on this forum and others that talk in detail about the parts needed. For example, if you're running the Borgeson unit, you need a different Zbar. OpenTracker sells it and it's referenced in the link I shared above. Another gotcha is if you're running a new roller block (1987 5.0) like I am. Those newer blocks don't have a boss for the zbar unit to mount into... so I found this part from California Pony Cars which attaches to the bellhousing and provides a mounting point for the zbar. The point is, do a lot of homework on this! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
In my opinion all solutions have pros and cons. The Z bar is very simple and reliable, but can interfere with exhaust headers or steering components as stated by Jeff before. You also need a different Zbar dependent if you have stock manifold or HiPo. Cables can also get burned at the exhaust because of the loop from the firewall to the clutch. You are more flexible with the hydraulic line, but there is a risk of leaking at one point and the price.


What is your current setup (exhaust and steering) and what are your future plans?

I'm pulling my 289 and keeping the block. Going to add aftermarket heads ( probably an Edelbrock performer top end kit since its an all in one package). Probably keeping the stock manifolds or maybe HiPo with an Arvinode exhaust. Currently have a Borgeson so I know I need the correct Z bar. Also need to swap out he auto brake pedal and add clutch pedal. Will probably talk to the people at Open Tracker.


Thanks for everyone input and more questions to follow!
 

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Make sure you do your homework on this conversion. There are MANY threads on this forum and others that talk in detail about the parts needed. For example, if you're running the Borgeson unit, you need a different Zbar. OpenTracker sells it and it's referenced in the link I shared above. Another gotcha is if you're running a new roller block (1987 5.0) like I am. Those newer blocks don't have a boss for the zbar unit to mount into... so I found this part from California Pony Cars which attaches to the bellhousing and provides a mounting point for the zbar. The point is, do a lot of homework on this! :)


Thanks for the heads up. I’m using a 289 and factory manual steering box.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I'm running a Toploader 4 speed so that means mechanical Z bar. I made my own linkage. Super easy and cheap. It's been 100% problem free is the 8-10 years it's been in the car. The only time I had to adjust anything was when I put my GT40P on along with a new flywheel and clutch. The best part you can say I made this instead of I bought this.

 

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I went with the z because I did not want to make any additions holes in the firewall and on the recommendation of several on this forum stating the z bar with the roller bearings in the pedal hanger is as good if not better than cable or hydraulic. I had to buy the jba z bar to get around the jba shorty headers. It’s very tight but clearance is clearance . I deleted the clutch return spring and that was a high improvement
 

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I went with the z because I did not want to make any additions holes in the firewall and on the recommendation of several on this forum stating the z bar with the roller bearings in the pedal hanger is as good if not better than cable or hydraulic. I had to buy the jba z bar to get around the jba shorty headers. It’s very tight but clearance is clearance . I deleted the clutch return spring and that was a high improvement
Ditto on the roller bearings for the pedal hanger

<a href='https://postimg.cc/34MJKZP5' target='_blank'><img src='https://i.postimg.cc/k4GVv1s4/dscn0306.jpg' border='0' alt='dscn0306'/></a>
 

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Continued from above. I bought the complete kit from modern driveline. Buying the kit was better for me than trying to save a few bucks and piece it together. If you order from modern drive line speak to Bruce as I had issues with my order. If you decide to go with the z bar have modern driveline install the fulcrum to the bellhousing before they ship it to you. Yes it is expensive time is money especially if you are having someone install it for you
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Continued from above. I bought the complete kit from modern driveline. Buying the kit was better for me than trying to save a few bucks and piece it together. If you order from modern drive line speak to Bruce as I had issues with my order. If you decide to go with the z bar have modern driveline install the fulcrum to the bellhousing before they ship it to you. Yes it is expensive time is money especially if you are having someone install it for you
Did you do a c4 to T5 swap or did you have a manual to start?
 

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I did a T5 swap, with a T5 bell, on my 65 coupe. I installed tri Ys and a Ron Morris cable on the 302. The headers interfered with the cable and I was afraid I would cook the cable. After giving up I pulled the headers and replaced them with Hipo manifolds, problem solved. The cable is smooth and the clutch works great.
 
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