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Which zbar setup to use

  • Stock bell housing and adapter plate

    Votes: 4 80.0%
  • T5 bell housing with fulcrum kit and spacer plate

    Votes: 1 20.0%

  • Total voters
    5
  • Poll closed .
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
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I am in the middle of doing a T5 swap and decieded to keep the stock zbar setup. But cannot decided if I should:

-use original 68 bell housing and get an adapter plate $134 which I wont have to frig with linkage, and I get a dust boot

-or us the t5 bell housing that came with the t5 and get a fulcrum kit $20and new bell housing spacer plate $25. This cheaper but I would have to pull the clutch and flywheel to change the bell housing spacer plate.


Which is better? From all my searches I think I may have to notch the floor with the adapter plate. So this would mean that the t5 sits more forward this way. Which would probably keep me from having to cut my drive shaft.

Or do you have to notch the floor both ways? Can I trust the adapter plate?


I decided against hydraulic too many results on them failing and would rather put the cash in a 3.55 rear gear.


Any info will be appreciated
 

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Code:
I am in the middle of doing a T5 swap and decieded to keep the stock zbar setup. But cannot decided if I should:

-use original 68 bell housing and get an adapter plate $134

-or us the t5 bell housing that came with the t5 and get a fulcrum kit $20and new bell housing spacer plate $25.


Which is better? From all my searches I think I may have to notch the floor with the adapter plate. So this would mean that the t5 sits more forward this way. Which would probably keep me from having to cut my drive shaft.

Or do you have to notch the floor both ways? Can I trust the adapter plate?


I decided against hydraulic too many results on them failing and would rather put the cash in a 3.55 rear gear.


Any info will be appreciated
I'm afraid I can't speak to your particular year. But, I did the conversion for my 64.5 and followed the "KISS" system by using the "Z" bar. My T5z with a "Slik-Stik" offsets the actual stick stub that insures no metal altering of the tunnel opening.
Running a 3:55 rear results in a super street combo as you'll soon experience.
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
wow, thats a nice z bar setup. I may try to do that myself, I have a bucket of aircraft rod ends and bearings. im sure I could make something work.

I should also mention I have a pro 5.0 shifter. And dont really mind if I have to notch the floor
 

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From all my searches I think I may have to notch the floor with the adapter plate. So this would mean that the t5 sits more forward this way. Which would probably keep me from having to cut my drive shaft.

Or do you have to notch the floor both ways? Can I trust the adapter plate?
Either way, the floor does not need to be modified in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Either way, the floor does not need to be modified in any way.
Thanks, I guess I will find out soon, seems 50% say you will need to notch it. Same with the drive shaft lots say it works and then there are lots of posts of ones that need to be cut.

Maybe I should start a poll on this.
 

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Thanks, I guess I will find out soon, seems 50% say you will need to notch it. Same with the drive shaft lots say it works and then there are lots of posts of ones that need to be cut.

Maybe I should start a poll on this.
Me thinks you did!
Here's my T5z with the shifter:
 

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Thanks, I guess I will find out soon, seems 50% say you will need to notch it. Same with the drive shaft lots say it works and then there are lots of posts of ones that need to be cut.

Maybe I should start a poll on this.
I think you'll find the difference is what T5 shifter is used. The stock one is no problem, but some of the aftermarket shifters are pretty bulky. The stock one is just fine for street use.
 

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I kept the z-bar setup. Got the heim jointed rods. Smooth as silk.
 
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