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Z-Lok hood lock

10917 Views 11 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  capemustang
Hi all:

I recently purchased a Z-lok hood lock for my '67. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to determine where to mount the lock.

If I tie it into the radiator support, I will need to drill into the hood. Unfortunately, If I attempt to drill the top piece into the hood, I will likely drill through the hood. I obviously want to avoid this. I could potentially drill it into the fender apron, but would need to create an indent with a hammer, maybe 1/4, or less, of an inch. If I don't hammer in the apron, the hood won't line up flush with the fender.

Any ideas? Anyone have pictures of their installation? I saw that someone tied the Z-lok into the hood latch, but that was for a 64.5-66. The same concept would not likely work for a 67.
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Z Loc

I hope you got the 7' one. 6' is too short. 1st thing, throw away the bracket they sent. (If you have the 6', see if they will exchange it for the 7'. They did for me.) We started using the old Chapman locks back around 1989. The Z Loc is a continuation of those and are about the easiest way to secure an old Mustang. We drilled into the hood latch support and into the hood latch itself. It will take some engineering to center the hole, but it isn't that hard. The object is to have the pin engage into the hood latch itself and there's NO WAY to open the hood once it's locked. With their bracket and the short screws, the hood can be ripped open if pulled hard enough. With the coil grounded and the hood locked, the only way to steal it is to tow it. Here's pics of my hood latch system. (ignore the other 2 holes on the latch support!) You will also have to measure (eye-ball) the pin and cut part of it off, as it's too long. Once you have the hole centered, you can insert the cable and see just how long the pin needs to be to fit into the hole. You'll want it right at the edge of the latch when disengaged and aimed at the hole. When you push in the lock, it'll slip into the hole and lock. We then beveled the edges of the pin to more easily slip into the hole. The cable routes around, under the export brace, and along the top of the radiator. My Chapman lasted about 25 years before it finally broke. The Z Loc seems to be the same quality as the Chapman. We did dozens of these and they were the least expensive & most effective we had come across. I have a plug to where I can unplug the coil wire and just lock the hood when I'm driving. There's no way it will ever fly up if locked. Let me know if I can be of any more help on this.

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I hope you got the 7' one. 6' is too short. 1st thing, throw away the bracket they sent. (If you have the 6', see if they will exchange it for the 7'. They did for me.) We started using the old Chapman locks back around 1989. The Z Loc is a continuation of those and are about the easiest way to secure an old Mustang. We drilled into the hood latch support and into the hood latch itself. It will take some engineering to center the hole, but it isn't that hard. The object is to have the pin engage into the hood latch itself and there's NO WAY to open the hood once it's locked. With their bracket and the short screws, the hood can be ripped open if pulled hard enough. With the coil grounded and the hood locked, the only way to steal it is to tow it. Here's pics of my hood latch system. (ignore the other 2 holes on the latch support!) You will also have to measure (eye-ball) the pin and cut part of it off, as it's too long. Once you have the hole centered, you can insert the cable and see just how long the pin needs to be to fit into the hole. You'll want it right at the edge of the latch when disengaged and aimed at the hole. When you push in the lock, it'll slip into the hole and lock. We then beveled the edges of the pin to more easily slip into the hole. The cable routes around, under the export brace, and along the top of the radiator. My Chapman lasted about 25 years before it finally broke. The Z Loc seems to be the same quality as the Chapman. We did dozens of these and they were the least expensive & most effective we had come across. I have a plug to where I can unplug the coil wire and just lock the hood when I'm driving. There's no way it will ever fly up if locked. Let me know if I can be of any more help on this.
I actually saw your post, but I think yours is a 64.5-66. My hood latch system is built into the hood and not the radiator support.
Z Loc

We did 64-66 & 69-70. We never figured out how to do it for the 67-68 hoods with the latch on the hood. I'm sure someone here, with the expertise we have, can come up with some way to make it work! The 69-70 comes in at a right angle to the radiator support, into the latch.
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We did 64-66 & 69-70. We never figured out how to do it for the 67-68 hoods with the latch on the hood. I'm sure someone here, with the expertise we have, can come up with some way to make it work! The 69-70 comes in at a right angle to the radiator support, into the latch.
I purchased the Zlok 1 ½ years ago for my 1969. Would you have any photos of how you installed it in a 69? Thank you.
Fabricate a lever that the Z-Lok can push that will prevent the hood latch hook from retracting OR run the Z-lok in from the passenger side to do the same.

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Thank you very much. i appreciate it.
Z Loc

I purchased the Zlok 1 ½ years ago for my 1969. Would you have any photos of how you installed it in a 69? Thank you.
Unfortunately, I don't have any around anymore. I also need to fond one of my old ones as I have a 69 and need to figure it out again! I do remember we came in from the back, right into the latch. The cable kinda looped into the engine compartment and 90* into the rad support. Once I get my 69 back, I'm going to experiment and take lots of pics!
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Unfortunately, I don't have any around anymore. I also need to fond one of my old ones as I have a 69 and need to figure it out again! I do remember we came in from the back, right into the latch. The cable kinda looped into the engine compartment and 90* into the rad support. Once I get my 69 back, I'm going to experiment and take lots of pics!
Thank you, I would greatly appreciate it!
seems to me you are trying to make something work that isn't bolt on for your particular mustang....since you are doing that, you could probably rig an electric solenoid to work just as easily:

https://www.alliedelec.com/product/...ViZyzCh1LHwsAEAQYAiABEgJrHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

something like this has an end that you could easily pin to a swivel piece to do what you need...and the switch would be easier to mount cleanly...if you have to custom mount it anyway...although on 2nd thought, an electric solenoid probably isn't a good idea unless you can bypass it mechanically...scratch that idea
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Hello
the videos for editing are available as well as the instructions
no problem for 1964-66 and 1968 and 1969
Ford Mustang 1967-68 can we do like the video of the Camaro ??
How It Works - Z-Lok HoodLock
Mustang 1964 - 1966
Camaro
How It Works - Z-Lok HoodLock
Manual
https://megatronixusa.com/manuals/HLManual.pdf
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Hello
the videos for editing are available as well as the instructions
no problem for 1964-66 and 1968 and 1969
Ford Mustang 1967-68 can we do like the video of the Camaro ??
How It Works - Z-Lok HoodLock
Mustang 1964 - 1966
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_IiEesAstBY
Camaro
How It Works - Z-Lok HoodLock
Manual
https://megatronixusa.com/manuals/HLManual.pdf
His videos are helpful. I like how he installed it in the pre 1969 mustangs which had the Zlok work directly with the hood latch rather than installing the provided bracket on the hood. I wanted to do that with my 1969 (not have to install the bracket on the hood). However, the hood latch on the 1969 is oriented 90 degrees different as compared to the earlier year mustangs.
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