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kiwi66

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

After nearly two years of repairs I've been able to enjoy (as much as the Irish summer allows) the car. I had the engine out of the car with starter removed but now can't remember if the noise was there when I put it back in or if it only started recently....

Lately every time I start the car there is a noise like a bolt in a washing machine for a about 5 seconds and then it's gone. The car starts fine and runs fine but the noise is there everytime when I start the car.

I originally thought it was a loose nut on one of the bolts on the exhaust but checked them all yesterday and they are nice and tight. It doesn't look like anything is hitting so I guess it must be the starter chewing up the flywheel ? - Now that I've said that...it makes me worry more.

I've tried to record the noise - thoughts? - The first whine is the electric fan spinning up.

Another noise – Starter? – My Mustang Journey
 
Sounds like it's time for a new starter drive... the one-way clutch in the existing one sounds like it's "on it's way out". Option 2 could be a sticking drive engagement lever (the arm under the little tin cover).
 
just get one for a 93 fox mustang 5.0
 
just get one for a 93 fox mustang 5.0
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Cheers Bart - That's a heck of a lot cheaper than an OE one I was pricing up from CJ's. The amazon site is warning me in very big letters that this will not fit a 1966 mustang 289 with a C4 tranny - I'm not doubting you guys but could you confirm it's the right one? Cheers
 
Cheers Bart - That's a heck of a lot cheaper than an OE one I was pricing up from CJ's. The amazon site is warning me in very big letters that this will not fit a 1966 mustang 289 with a C4 tranny - I'm not doubting you guys but could you confirm it's the right one? Cheers
Amazon will say that because it isn't a replacement for the OE starter. It's really a replacement for a late-model 3.8 V6 and 5.0 V8 and is a PMGR (Permanent-magnet, gear-reduction) type unit that is smaller and stronger than original. You'll need a very small "wiring modification" that involves moving your starter cable from the back to the front of the starter solenoid and running a smaller gauge (12-14 is fine) wire from the rear of the solenoid down to the small terminal on the starter. That's it.
 
Happy Days - The new mini starter arrived today - Friday, so I have the weekend to fit it. I'll keep you posted.
well that should take 30 minuets what will you do with the rest of the weekend
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Ha - 30 minutes you say....1 hour later I had the headers off and the old starter out. I made a (bad) video of what was left of the old starter and a comparrision in regards nose length to the new one.

Oh in the video I mention flywheel...but I meant flexplate :)

Should I be concerned about the difference in nose length?

First video is the noise that started this. The video at the bottom of the page is the new part...

Another noise – Starter? – My Mustang Journey
 
Ha - 30 minutes you say....1 hour later I had the headers off and the old starter out. I made a (bad) video of what was left of the old starter and a comparrision in regards nose length to the new one.

Oh in the video I mention flywheel...but I meant flexplate :)

Should I be concerned about the difference in nose length?

First video is the noise that started this. The video at the bottom of the page is the new part...

Another noise – Starter? – My Mustang Journey
I have never had to pull a header to change a starter. things must be differant on the other side of the pond.
how do you like the new starter?
zips right over.
 
Should I be concerned about the difference in nose length?
I can't see the video (at work), but what difference do you have in nose length? If you have a 289/C4 combo, then you should be installing a starter with the longer nose to allow the starter teeth to properly engage the flexplate or the 157 tooth flywheel. The shorter nose length is for the 164 tooth flywheel. I just changed my starter this last weekend and made sure I had the shorter nose because I have the 164t flywheel.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I can't see the video (at work), but what difference do you have in nose length? If you have a 289/C4 combo, then you should be installing a starter with the longer nose to allow the starter teeth to properly engage the flexplate or the 157 tooth flywheel. The shorter nose length is for the 164 tooth flywheel. I just changed my starter this last weekend and made sure I had the shorter nose because I have the 164t flywheel.
Thanks for the reply. I'm pretty sure this is the long version. The case is slightly shorter but not by much.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
All,

Can I have your thoughts on the wiring of the new starter please.

The wiring on this car is a rats nest of ancient crustry wires, which is going to be my winter project. For now I want to ensure the new starter is wired up correctly before I put the headers etc back on as its loads easier to access with them off (Had to remove them to remove the old full size starter due to clearance issues)

The solenoid was wired with the positive battery lead on the rearmost terminal of the solenoid and the old starter was connected to the frontmost terminal.

I thought I was following woodchucks advice by moving the starter to the rear (same terminal as positive battery) and then running a new wire from the front terminal to the small terminal on the starter. But when I turned the key I got a bit of a clunk, a bit of a spark on the negative battery terminal and then everything was dead. I think a PO may have already moved the starter wire to the front of the solenoid..or I have some other wacky setup.

I moved the main starter wire back to the front terminal, leaving the new wire there as well, and this time starter seemed to work properly (much cleaner, newer sounding noise) but I didn't want the car to fire as the headers are off so I disconnected the coil.

I've taken a few photographs. It's a mess and the small wire is just bare wire to test the setup (off to the parts store tomorrow). Any concerns with this setup? - It doesn't seem right that both starter connections are coming off the same solenoid terminal. :-( - Should I move the new wire to the back terminal (same as battery positive?)
 

Attachments

The large wire from the starter goes to the same terminal as the battery+ cable. the small wire from the starter goes to the other large post on the solenoid. there should be no other wires connected there.
The sparking and dead after at the neg treminal is a bad connection.
I would run new wires now to the starter now while you can get to them.
There should be 2 standoffs bolted to the engine mount on the pass side to keep the wires away from the exhaust.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Thanks Ken. I just noticed that the solenoid I have is different from standard (as per pictures). Would this make any difference to connections? - It's odd that the new starter seems to function with the 'backwards' wiring I have at present (although I haven't fired the engine with it yet). I'll try and source new cables tomorrow when the shops are open.
 
with the new starter the large cable goes in the same place as the positive cable from the battery. The small wire from the new starter goes to the other large terminal on the solenoid all by itself.
The I terminal provides 12 volts to the ignition while cranking. the other small terminal receives 12 volts from the ignition switch only in start position to energize the solenoid.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Hi All - Hope your weekends are going good. After sorting out the wiring the new starter is working well. I love the sound of it, like a newish car compared to the old starter. Thanks for everyone's help :)
 
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