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‘65 inner rocker panel replacement

1.6K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  Westmus  
#1 ·
I have a few rust holes on the inside of the pinch weld below the left side rocker panel on my ‘65 fastback. The car was restored 25 years and and there are no signs of rust anywhere in the door jams or on the outer rockers. Is it possible to replace the inner rocker without disrupting the outer? I assume the inner and outer are spot welded along the pinch at the bottom and bottom I’m wondering if this can be separated?

I will be having a very experienced body shop do the work but they don’t regularly work on Mustangs. I would to go in with a bit of an idea of what may be involved and which reproduction panels are required. Their suggestion was to replace the inner and outer together.
 
#6 ·
Ah right. Thank you for the explanation. I don’t have any pics on hand but will post some tomorrow. I don’t believe the corrosion extends into the cabin area and it’s essentially a few holes no larger than a nickel. I’m assuming then that some isolated patches may be all that is required and that is not possible to replace the entire inner rocker (without a lot of work?)
The sheet metal used for the outer rocker panel had a protective zinc layer (like common used on all modern cars) That's why you will see the parts behind it sometimes can be pretty rusty while the outer rocker panel still seems to have very little rust. Frame rails and other "important" parts was made using the same "galvanized" sheet metal from the factory.
Thank you for the info. I had read about the galvanizing in another thread but that was for a 1970 and I wasn’t sure if that was the case for the 1965s as well. This is useful to know.
 
#5 ·
The sheet metal used for the outer rocker panel had a protective zinc layer (like common used on all modern cars) That's why you will see the parts behind it sometimes can be pretty rusty while the outer rocker panel still seems to have very little rust. Frame rails and other "important" parts was made using the same "galvanized" sheet metal from the factory.
 
#9 ·
I got under the car today and had another look for myself. I am thinking this is really far less of an issue than has been made out to me by others. It’s difficult to get pics because of the lighting and angle but the area circled in red is an example of what I’m dealing with. There are two others areas of similar size and it’s all toward the front of the car. The outer rocker is rock solid and all spot welds are easily identifiable which to me suggests there is little bondo.

Im not sure I would even call this active corrosion as the car was restored many years ago before it was imported to Australia. Regardless, the transport authority has deemed that the area needs to be repaired so I will make sure all of the under seal is removed along the entire punch weld and see go from there.

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#13 ·
Finally got a chance to lift the car and take some better images of the problem areas. Appreciate input.



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#14 · (Edited)
I would do the "quick fix" repairs it takes to make the car legal and drive for now. Because to me it looks like a can of worms, if you expected the car to be restored and rust free. That there will be more rust hidden in that car than you might think. Then you got time to think: drive as is, sell or jump into an probably larger repair needed to make the car rust free without visible repairs. The problem with rust repairs are that you usually have to remove a lot of stuff to able to do a proper repair and it need a "serious" paint job to last and not be visible afterwards.