2.5 years ago I dynoed my stock 1966 2-barrel c-code mustang with c4 at my friends chassis dyno. Only modification I think was double exhaust pipe. Results... 130hp@4000rpm, 280Nm@2800rpm. š„³ Those are flywheel numbers after calculating drivetrain losses.
After that I have installed weiand street warrior intake, edelbrock 500cfm carb, pertronix I and flamethrower coil with 12v feed. Distributor springs was changed to lighter, full advance 36* comes in around 2800rpm, initial 10*. Results at chassis dyno 151hp@4066rpm, 310Nm@3100rpm.
Carburetor primary and secondary have been tuned little bit after that with afr meter but not dynoed again. Maybe few horses have been gained after fine tuning.
Car has been fun to drive with those mods, it is more responsive at all rpm areas. Mpg has been gone up little bit, about 15L/100km at mixed driving. My driving is just weekend cruising, at town and highway, rpm range stays mainly low, at 1500-3000rpm. So my goal is to have reliable cruiser with low end and mid range grunt, maybe 200-230hp at flywheel.
For this winter's project, i have decided to pull heads and grind exhaust bumps and port match, and change camshaft. Heads have pressed-in studs which I will be leaving alone. New water pump, timing chain kit and valve seals go in also.
Edelbrock 2122 performer is propably the cam to be installed with new stock springs (melling vs350). Any other suggestions? Thats mild and popular grind. Summit, Jegs, Sealed power sell those grinds also but I think edelbrock cam+lifter kit should have highest quality as it is most expensive. Was reading somewhere that summit lifters had some issues, maybe that was 1 in a million, but i dont want to take risk.
I have double exhaust with stock manifolds. Is there any sense in grinding the exhaust bumps and changing cam, while I have stock manifolds? Will the stock manifolds restrict significantly? Hipo manifolds would be the next step but it would take 600-800$ more + extra time for this project, so I would rather go with stock exhaust.
Which kind of hp or torque numbers I could expect with this combo?
Couple exhaust ports after removing manifold. I guess the carbon build-ups in valves are from leaking valve seals..?
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After that I have installed weiand street warrior intake, edelbrock 500cfm carb, pertronix I and flamethrower coil with 12v feed. Distributor springs was changed to lighter, full advance 36* comes in around 2800rpm, initial 10*. Results at chassis dyno 151hp@4066rpm, 310Nm@3100rpm.
Carburetor primary and secondary have been tuned little bit after that with afr meter but not dynoed again. Maybe few horses have been gained after fine tuning.
Car has been fun to drive with those mods, it is more responsive at all rpm areas. Mpg has been gone up little bit, about 15L/100km at mixed driving. My driving is just weekend cruising, at town and highway, rpm range stays mainly low, at 1500-3000rpm. So my goal is to have reliable cruiser with low end and mid range grunt, maybe 200-230hp at flywheel.
For this winter's project, i have decided to pull heads and grind exhaust bumps and port match, and change camshaft. Heads have pressed-in studs which I will be leaving alone. New water pump, timing chain kit and valve seals go in also.
Edelbrock 2122 performer is propably the cam to be installed with new stock springs (melling vs350). Any other suggestions? Thats mild and popular grind. Summit, Jegs, Sealed power sell those grinds also but I think edelbrock cam+lifter kit should have highest quality as it is most expensive. Was reading somewhere that summit lifters had some issues, maybe that was 1 in a million, but i dont want to take risk.
I have double exhaust with stock manifolds. Is there any sense in grinding the exhaust bumps and changing cam, while I have stock manifolds? Will the stock manifolds restrict significantly? Hipo manifolds would be the next step but it would take 600-800$ more + extra time for this project, so I would rather go with stock exhaust.
Which kind of hp or torque numbers I could expect with this combo?
Couple exhaust ports after removing manifold. I guess the carbon build-ups in valves are from leaking valve seals..?
