It appears by your description to be what I call a "mail order parts engine".....

the edelbrock parts are not bad, but they are not that great either...for the price you can do much better. The Scat crank.....IMHO, I would not touch one.....they originally started off building VW cranks etc.....now many high end racers use their products (promotion for sure) but the parts they use & what you buy are 2 different things....if you check Ford racing (and others- similar), you will not find any engine using a non-forged crank (stroker) but Scat sells these kits left & right.....others who have been in the business for decades will not sell non-forged units either (in 90% cases) such as Crower....hank the Crank was the oldest crank builder in the business.....forgetting more than most will ever know...non-forged cranks for any stroker were not even an option in his shop & he started in the 40's eventually retirng & selling his shop in the late 70's.

and the cam.....
Comp has by appearance - seems to be a company that has experience more cam lobe failures than most and places the blame on the low ZDDP in the oils. Is it a factor yes, but I highly suspect that they are also using Chinese cam billets & they do not include Parkerizing their cams (Parkerizing is the final step and a crucial step to help break the cam in- a heated acid bath that microscopically etches the metal surface and adds a very thin layer of graphite coating which allows the cam lube to hang onto and penetrate into the cam surface during cam break in) unless you specifically request and pay additional money for it. If someone ever tries to compare advertise specs of a cam to another, it is really impossible because advertized lift/duration/lobe separation is just that- advertized and not the specific grind including ramp profile that is used on the cam.

That is why I highly recommend Iskenderian & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $. As an example of the QA differences, Isky inspects & test every single valve spring befor it leaves the shop...Comp, well it is cyclic the complaints that you hear from machine shops...it goes from bad valve springs, poor quality retainers, cam lobes suddenly having excessive wear (many reported as soon as 10,000 miles). Comp is a mass production high volume operation.....for the same price, you can get a complete (or your machinst can purchase) cam valtrain assembly that is hand selected for your engine & application by one of the family owned/operated cam companies.

Given the criticality of the component, when it comes to making an engine breathe, there are so many variables including elevation, humidity, fuel blends/available octane, most cam mfgs will vary a "core grind pattern" to match the external impactors in addition to the internal impactors- which today IMHO makes the different between and engine that runs well, to one that just seems to run a little bit better, smoother and gets better mileage than expected.

While the price for a stroker build in general is about right, for the same $ you could definitely get an engine build with a higher quality of parts.

 

For that kind of money (dropped all at one time) I would get a crate motor from Woody over at Fordstorkers and not look back. You can get a dart block 347 for not much more money and you can save a few bucks if you get the stock XXX roller block. Better heads (TFS 190 FAC), roller cam w/ matched springs and you can request a RPM crank (maybe that will make Beechkid happy ) and you know it will be a quality build by one of the best in the business. From everything I have ever read, his machine work is above and beyond and his customer service is outstanding. You can find him everyday over at Corrall.net ("Strokeme") offering free advice and helping people with their builds for free.

The 5 hours of dyno time is a plus, but I would rather have one of Woody's motors and pay for dyno time. If you go with your guy, do yourself a favor and insist on the roller cam, lifters and matched springs...he is probably buying those heads assembled with springs for flat tappet cams and has to buy additional springs and swap them out for the roller cam (at least he better be), but maybe a reason for the additional cost. In addition ,he would have to buy link bar lifters to run the roller cam in a non roller block, which are around $350.

 

A local shop is charging me for a rebuild and stroking out my 289 to 331. Usual work on block, balancing etc., SCAT stroker, Also include Edelbrock E-street heads, E-brock Gap intake, and E-brock water pump and 5 hours of dyno time. I supply carburator (which he will rebuild) and distributor and coil (mallory hyfire). He says it will be a roller block but not roller cam. will be extra for roller cam and cam will be comp. cams unit.

does 6,300 buck sound about right for this build?

thanks for your opinion

Scat cast crank and I beam Rods would be your best option at that price point. They are well tested in the 331 and 347 strokers. No need for a forged unit when using a stock block. there are better heads to use then the E-street. I would look into using trick flow 185 or the new AFR 185 heads. You really should go with a roller cam. there is no reason not to run one in a Roller block, just use the factory dog bones to keep cost down. do not be scared of using Comp Cams, plenty of small block fords running around without issues. The cams that Beechkid recomended would also be a good choice if they have one that fits your needs. if you want the best in cams go custom with FTI (ED Curtis). I have used AFM cams with impressive results. I would use the Air gap intake, Stealth or the Performer RPM. Those are the best intakes for the small block Ford. I would look into FORDSTROKERS (Jim Woods) for you engine , also Brian at ADPERFORMANCE and Keith Craft all have very good reputations. You should also consider going to a 347 over the 331, no reason not to, why not get the extra cubes for the same money. I own both 331 and 347 they are similar builds but I have not dynoed the 331 yet to actually see the diference between the two. it should not be much.Just a side note on the E-street heads. if you can buy them bare and have a quality set of valves and springs installed they actually flow decent. The factory valvetrain is junk for performance use.

 

Sounds like he is NOT rebuilding your 289, rather swapping your 289 for a later model 302 roller block, doing the machine work (guessing bore/hone, tank clean, freeze plugs/cam bearings and check stroker clearance - get in writing what else he is doing like square-decking, line hone, etc.).

I have run SCAT components before in V8 builds and they make good stuff anymore that really doesn't require a lot of rework like the old stuff from the 80's.

I'd agree with cmefly and their cast setup is just fine since it sounds like you want mainly a street engine. Also I'm not a big fan of the e-street heads for the same reason he posted - they're edelbrock's answer to the chineese invasion of knock-off heads and the valvetrain components are only good for small cams - any of the roller stuff will likely require an upgrade - so why not purchase bare ones and build them or buy better ones off the bat.

I wouldn't let him put a flat tappet cam in a roller block - that's just going backwards and there is no reason not to do a roller cam - the cost is about $100 more than a flat tappet (unless he's using something like an old design cheap elgin or speed pro grind in your high $$ engine - then I'd really question his abilities)

If I were spending that $$ and not for a proven "crate" combo that someone is selling I would be getting a parts list of at least the major components and machine work list and making my decision on the shop's reputation in the area and the pricing of the larger parts in the list.

FWIW - the bill sounds a little bit high to me without running the numbers as it's about $3k in parts tops ($1200 balanced rotating assembly, $1k heads, $800 misc gaskets, oil pump & pan , t-chain, etc.) and about $5-600 in machine work including a donor roller 302 core block (they're about $50-100). That gets the long block done - Add in if you're not supplying the intake another $200-250ish, and any add-ons such as valvecovers, fuel pump, water pump, etc. (which he might be buying new if he's dynoing the engine)

 

You need a new engine builder. For all the reasons above.
E-Street heads? Yuk!
Flat tappet in a roller block? Yuk!
331 instead of 347? Yuk! and Why? Just as much work, money and time. Why leave good cubic inches on the floor?

Fordstrokers.com

 

. He says it will be a roller block but not roller cam. will be extra for roller cam and cam will be comp. cams unit.

does 6,300 buck sound about right for this build?

thanks for your opinion

289s are not roller blocks so he would be keeping your 289 and giving you a newer roller 302 which cannot hold the HP that an old 289 can. No worries with the parts listed however IF you start to upgrade it could become an issue.

As other's have said, for that price see Woody at FordStrokers

 

I also agree that the price is to high. Why not check out Coast High Performance, Ford Strokers, or even Blueprint engines, a member here just had one of those installed and has written several posts about it. I'd also go with a 347, there's no reason to leave horsepower/ torque on the table and build a smaller 331 for the same price. Flat tappet cam in a roller block? No no no, John

 

I also think that price is too high for what you are getting. I built my 331 with a SCAT forged rotating assembly, comp roller cam and AFR 185 heads for around $5300. I only saved $200 bucks by not having the machine shop assemble it. The 331 is a nice all around stroker.

 

you should skip the 331 and look for a roller 408 longblock from one of the above mentioned builders. I just built a roller 347 for right at 5K with AFR 185 heads, custom cam, balanced forged pistons / rods and cast crank with balancer and flywheel too with a Edelbrock air gap intake. That includes the price of a 91 roller block heads and everything. I still think I could have done it cheaper too. Dont settle for low-mid end parts and leave good power on the table to save just a few bucks.

 

Everyone above me listed great reason's as to why you should look elsewhere, so I'll just throw another vote out there for Jim at Fordstrokers.com. You can get a 347 longblock + complete bottom end (with MUCH better parts) shipped to your door for about the same price.

If $6300 doesn't scare you, then I'd also highly consider looking into a 408 stroker as suggested by 68_GT.

 

New Motor

Another place to check on crate motors is Kieth Craft. The builds your considering are common and a number of good companies should have very good tried and true crate motors to pick from at reasonable prices. If your builder is not in the business of building high performance crate motors, I think you can get more bang for your buck. You may spend more, but overall should have a better end game. It's also reasonable that a crate motor should be dyno tuned or at least broke in on a stand so you get something with a good cam and no leaks.

 

A freind went with one of these summit long blocks 2 yrs ago. all he had to do was bolt in his assys and he was out of it for under $4K

and this motor rocks, and hauls butt all day.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MLL-BP3472CT/

 

I have a 347 stroker from BluePrint Engines. Aluminum heads, roller cam, etc. it was even dynoed before it was shipped. $4,000 and I am very happy. See my links to the videos and website on my signature line. I have about 1,000 miles on it now.

 

As a lower cost alternative you could purchase an assembled, balanced shortblock and use all the parts from your 289 (starter, alternator, timing cover,oil pan...), pick your own heads/cam and skip the dyno. John

 

As you are examining all of your options, remember to keep your goals/budget/driving habits in mind. Building a cruiser, high performance street machine with some track use or just want a mild build with a little more pep. The max effort motors are pricey and then you need a transmission to hold it (tq converter upgrade if automatic) maybe new rear end (31 spline).

It's hard to say what is a good option without knowing a few more details. Highway use or just around town. Gears, overdrive? Maybe you are just looking for 350 crank hp, add some 3.55 gears and have fun. Really need more information to know where you want to go, but regardless...I would be looking elsewhere for my build.

 

As I read everyones comments, we all agree on one premise.....for the $, you can definitely have a much finer constructed engine with better quality parts elsewhere. If you are considering crate engines, check out gofastparts.com...they are located in Redland, ca,yes their website is crappy but call them direct, they have been in business for 15-20 years, they carry just about every crate engine known to man from stock to wild and pricing, even including shipping they beat most prices!!!

 

well,......

Red68, it sounds a little exspensive, but it isn't really outrageous. I've seen guys charged more, and some charged less. I'd ask more questions before i pulled the trigger on this one. Not because I'm saying his price is unreasonable, but you need to understand just what are you getting. If you are getting a non-roller cam in a roller block, it sounds like he is starting with late 80s, early 90s truck engine shortblock. There is nothing wrong with that. But you can get a truck shortblock on Craig's List for 50$, so ask how much are you paying and for what. It doesn't sound like you are rebuilding the 289 so much as you are replacing it. BUT- my computer is being hi-jacked- my wife needs the terminal to work on, so since she actually earns money and I'm just clicking....she gets the 'puter- I'll come back later. LSG

 

Lotsa good stuff here. Thank you very much for helping me. To answer some questions, I wanted an street engine with attitude, but also so I can go cross country touring (will be looking into a 5speed or maybe 6 speed manual tranny).

The block i guess would be converted to roller block. It's my own 289 block from my 1968 car (number matching block).

Here's the build:

331 Stoker Kit $1,312
-SCAT 9000 & I beam rods
-HP cam and lifter, flat tappet (add $500 for roller)
-pistons, rings, oil pump and screen, bearings

Ford motorsport retro valve covers w/breather 150
stainless engine bolt kit 227
E-brock, E-street heads 936
Comp cam magnum rocker arms 164
1-piece comp cam push rods 120
break-in oil and filter package 45
spark plug and wire (NGK/MSD) 52
E-brock water pump 180
E-brock GAP intake 258
Carb kit to rebuild carb 34
bore and hone cylinders 225
align hone main bores 130
assemble new pistons/rods 95
balance rotating assembly 200
square deck block 235
hot tank all used components 85
paint components 85
install cam bearings and plugs 43
assemble street engine complete 680
rebuild carb 102
dyno engine-5hours 475
freight 165
shop supply fee 25

Guess I should look into a crate motor and forget about keeping numbers matching. It's not all than important to me anyway. Besides, I can always keep my old engine in the garage.

Any more info or observations on the above cost sheet?

 

Main problem - there is no "conversion" of the original 289 block.

You can have a roller cam (special small diameter) installed and use roller lifters......block is still the same, although some systems tap threads in the valley for attachment of the spider system.....

I say set the block aside and go with a solid crate engine.

Ideally, you would have the greatest machine shop in the universe nearby, like I do (American Cylinder Head Exchange in Vero Beach, Fl.) and they could assemble the perfect engine just for you. Short of that - go crate 350-450 h.p. should be very reliable/affordable.

 

Reason for the $500 for a roller cam is the linked lifters (about $350), and I think you need to use them because of a shorter lifter bore. If you want the benifit of a roller engine, 1 piece rear main seal and more aggressive ramp on the cam, you should switch to a roller block- I think about $700 from summit ready to go. Or research some other options that have been mentioned. If it were me I'd keep the 289 as is and switch to a 351 or stroked to a 408. Would drop right in to your '68. Lots more torque and potential. John

 

331

Red68, looking at the breakdown of costs, thats kinda pricey. I had thought, at first read of the thread, that you were getting a new everything and he was installing it for you. If you're going to use the 289 block, no problem. But, 95$ to assemble pistons & rods ?! You can do that your self, takes less than 1/2 hour to do the set. I'd do the rods, pistons, and rings for 20. assembly at 680$ ?! Look for less than $100, you can do it in less than 1 day. Why is he going to deck the block (235 ) and align hone the mains (130 ) ? The little Ford block is usually not warped out of shape unless they have been brutalized on a racetrack. You may not need some of those operations. Do you really need to dyno it ? Where do you live ? Maybe one of us can recommend someone close to you. LSG