Welcome to VMF!
Well when you start tearing into the doors/window mechanisms it’s definitely a can of worms.
If you can, you really need to pull everything out, clean well, replace all the plastic rollers, front and rear window channel/felts and re-lube everything. I like what’s called “Super Lube”. Comes in a tube or spray. Tube stuff works great and will never harden like lithium grease. If you have the window felts out, now is the time.
Now, if your front and rear channels are OK then don’t touch those. You can basically remove everything besides the window and clean, inspect, replace items as necessary then lube/re-assemble. All with the actual window remaining in the door (Just pull it all the way up and hold/support it there). Just make sure you clean the bottom tracks on the window assembly. And that old grease is/can be a PITA to get out..
Have you heard of “NPD - National Parts Depot”. If not check them out - they should have everything you will need. And many, many, many good folks here to assist.

KJ

 

Thank you for the reply KJ. I've bought tons of parts from NPD and I tried buying the felt kit from them but they're backordered. I figured I'd probably need to take the assembly out. I just despise dealing with window regulators etc. I recently changed out bother window regulator/motors on both doors of my 2001 Dodge ram. I dealt with the motors working when they wanted to for years because of how much I dislike like dealing with them. Turned out both regulators had broken wheels in them too. Can you replaced just the regulator wheels if they are broken in the 65? I will try the Super Lube as I've never heard of it. If it doesn't dry up then it's what I need to use as I don't want to have to go back in there. What about the lower window stop, is it needed?

 

Can you replaced just the regulator wheels if they are broken in the 65? I will try the Super Lube as I've never heard of it. If it doesn't dry up then it's what I need to use as I don't want to have to go back in there. What about the lower window stop, is it needed?

When you say regulator wheels are you referring to the small rollers at the ends of the regulator arms that slide in the tracks? If so yes everything is replaceable. My 65 is a Mar of 64 build (something like 300k miles) and I was able to clean and re-use both regulators/linkage. They are quite robust. Removal/install or replacement of the regulator and associated arms, slides etc is actually quite easy and straight forward.

Lower window stop: does yours actually have the large (approx 1 inch by 2 inch) rubber stop at the bottom of the door? Mine did not (normal for the early 64.5). You should / may also have a stop/block for both up and down up near the regulator. I had blocks bolted to the door that you would adjust to contact the large regulator gear when down. That was my only “down” stop. So I’m not sure if you need the lower stop if you also have the regulator stop etc.. Wasnt on mine from Ford but it’s possibly on yours for a reason - they may have went to the lower stop and removed the regulator gear stops etc.. I’m just not all that savvy with the mid year changes with the 1st Gen Stangs.

 

From what I can tell, the lower window stop keeps you from rolling the window below the opening in the door. If you go too low and try to roll it back up, it can get hung up on the bottom of the opening, or the beltline weatherstrip. Then you have to either remove the door panel or insert a thin bladed item between the top of the window frame and the door to get the window to roll it back up. Ask me how I know this fun fact!

 

LeeFred

I love the "ask me how I know" as it always give me a chuckle when I read it. No, I don't want to deal with that especially when I'm about to put in new a felt strips kit as those were stupid expensive. I'll order a window stop kit.

 

KJ it does have a stop I removed near the regulator and the lower rubber stop on the floor of the door. This is at least the drivers door. WOW, 300K miles! I'll pull the regulator out tonight and inspect and clean. I bet there will be at lease one broken wheel per side as plastic doesn't last forever. Especially on a no AC car, lol.

 

I just recently replaced the passenger door regulator and scissor; they were pretty far gone. Probably the original 1965 parts.
Those little blue plastic rollers are cheap and easy to replace. Unless the mechanisms are shot, a through cleaning and fresh grease will make a world of difference.

 

Once you get the regulator out you’ll be able to tell pretty quickly if the rollers are the problem or the spring mechanism inside the hub of the regulator is the problem. The regulator and scissors assembly isn’t that hard to install so you may find it easier to just replace the regulator than try to lube or service the hub.

The rubber stop at the bottom IS designed to prevent the window from going too far down the channel. The other thing it does is give the window a soft spot to land on so when you roll the window all the way down it doesn’t bottom out with a clank and gives the glass a tighter feel when the window is all the way down.

Tech tip when working inside the doors. Use old windlace to line the edges of the openings while working and remove once you’re done. Your hands and arms will thank you.

 

The rubber stop at the bottom IS designed to prevent the window from going too far down the channel. The other thing it does is give the window a soft spot to land on so when you roll the window all the way down it doesn’t bottom out with a clank and gives the glass a tighter feel when the window is all the way down.

Sounds like something I should fabricate for my early 65. I hate rattling windows…. If someone has an opportunity to take and post a picture of how that rubber stop is mounted/configured I would greatly appreciate it. I have seen the rubber stops for sale but not the actual mount that the rubber attaches to etc.
-Thank you

KJ

 

Would I be able to spray the side channel on the quarter window with silicon spray? Like I do with newer cars?

 

The Super Lube is a Synthetic Silicone base. The spray version works really good. The tube version is best for all of your rollers and channels.
I think if you are just trying to prolong the use of your original channel then yes. I know most say not to put anything on new channels - attracts dust, dirt etc which could increase wear . And or the lube could also loosen up the felt glued into the channels. I’ll admit I removed and robustly cleaned everything on my doors/windows. Literally soaked the regulators etc in solvent and thoroughly cleaned and lubed afterwords. I replaced all rollers and front and rear window channels - actually just sandblasted, repaired, painted and reinstalled the felt on the rears. Everything else is my original equipment. Windows roll up and down awesome now. Majority of the hard rolling windows was the rock hard lithium..

 

What is old windlace?

 

Windlace is the rubber trim that covers the pinch welds where body panels in the interior come together. Look inside the door jamb. There should be windlace all around the door opening.

Besides keeping your arms and hands from getting cut up from the interior door access openings. Small pieces also work great for clamping the headliner to the pinchwelds while the glue dries during a headliner installation.

 

Thanks LeeFred,
Is the mount removable or adjustable, or is it part of the lower door structure?
Thanks!

 

I had to remove my rubber stop with a friggin prybar. It came apart as it was hard as a rock. I'll get a picture tonight of what it mount to not unless someone beats me to it.

 

That would be great - Thanks

 

By the way I love the color of your Mustang KJ. Mine is midnight blue.

 

Thank you Sir,
Midnight Blue is definitely awesome. It took me forever to pick “the blue” out of literally 10 or more examples. I was torn between something lighter and darker. I tried to get right in the middle.
Sneak a pic in with one of your posts.. 👍😀

 

Here is mine, no rubber stop. I'll probably add one though. kip

[ATTACH]828291[/ATTACH]

 

I thought I selected thumbnail! Oh well.

 

The big picture works. I could see it without my glasses. 😄👍
Yep, my doors definitely don’t have that. I’ve got an idea how to configure an adjustable mount that I can slide the bumper into.

Thank you TB350

 

Should I just replace the division bar weather stripping while I'm at it?

 

You can, but at that point you might as well do everything. Of which easy for me or others to suggest but I’ve always been a “while I’m at it” or “while I’m in here” kinda guy..
Several of us have the unique tool from NPD to do those rivets on the vent window. For the cost of to/from shipping some will loan them out etc..

 

That's it. Spot welded to the door.

 

Roger that - thanks 65SIX.
Must be beneficial since Ford added it. Now I want to make that happen. 👍

 

so you need a special tool to replace the felt in the window run?

 

Are you referring to the window run at the rear of the door?

 

Front and rear channel for the window. Both are down to the metal as silicone spray didn't do sqwat. What weather stripping kits do I need? Also how much play in the regulator on the hand crank to warranty replacing the spring or entire regulator mechanism?

 

My actual regulators had very little if any play. The one part that I may replace later is the secondary pivot and arm that’s connected to the regulator. Mine had quite a bit of “wobble” at the pivot (the part that bolts to the door). But I really don’t know what a perfect one feels like either- but assume it’s more snug.

It sounds like you would be best to just replace/rebuild everything in your doors. At least the drivers as it’s the most used.
The rear channels can be rebuilt (re-felted). If you don’t mind $80 a piece you can buy them complete. I had both of mine sandblasted as its near impossible to get the old felt and glue off well. I then found stress cracks on all of the mounting tabs. The drivers side was the worse to include being bent from slamming the door I’m sure. Ended up straightening then welding up every week point / cracks. After that I painted with acid etching primer and installed the felt kit. They turned out great but with their condition/amount of work, $80 no longer sounded that bad...

Overall I found repairing or replacing everything in the doors relatively easy. Sure getting the window back in and adjusted is challenging but other than that the only other item, the wing window rebuild was a tick up in regards to difficulty. But like 66R08T mentioned, your windows will roll up and down super nice and it’s a rewarding accomplishment.

-I’m installing my headliner the last week. Been learning, test fitting, then stretching and gluing in sections. Should have it wrapped up by Friday so I can instal front/rear windows this weekend. My headliner is turning out fine - great actually but it too is something that finding someone more experienced may be better than doing it yourself.. It’s just a good thing someone isn’t paying me by the hour….

KJ

 

Just did all 4 of mine.

- Removed (where possible) and cleaned all tracks

- New Rollers (3 each side front - 2 each side rear)

- Plenty of White lithium grease

- Ended up needing 1 new front regulator so I just replaced both with Scott Drake

- New Felts all around with Repop

 

Nice pictures. I know I can pull up and down on both windows. The drivers side doesn't appear to have any broken wheels but they aren't rolling either. Probably abnormally worn or flat spotted over the last few decades from no grease in the tracks I see you're looking for a 6cyl smog pump. Would those come on the California made Mustangs back in the day?

 

I had the full gamit of issues with the rollers: fused in place, broken, and missing. Now they roll up and down with 2 fingers and stop at the proper heights. Takes longer to do this work rhan I expected but there's a huge payoff.
(Yes - smog parts is a California thing)

 

Take the regulators and tracks out. Fully clean all the old grease out and don't use white litiumn grease (it turns into glue after some time). Get new plastic rollers (they are cheap) and grease everything with regular grease and they will glide. Also check your regulator arms and make sure they are not bent. After you get them installed back in, look at the arms as you wind them up or down. What you are looking for, are the arms trying to pull the rollers out of their tracks. If so, the arms are bent from years of winding up to hard. Best to get new regulators because you will never get them bent back properly.

 

. You guys outta hear my driver side window when I crank it up. It sounds terrible like metal on metal. Looks like I'll be pulling everything out of both doors. The passenger side is not as hard to crank like the driver side however its got a lot of play in the regulator gear before it even moves to go down. I'm seeing dollar signs flash in front me very eyes. Depending on what needs to be replaced who carries the better quality parts? Are they all about the same? I've got a lot got a lot going on with the car as I just got Chocostang disc brake kit in two weeks ago. V8 steering kit just showed up this past Friday, my T5 conversion is ready to go in minus the driveshaft and I'm dropping off my 9 inch third member to the builder this Sunday. What's a couple more window projects added to the lot of sanity lol.

 

For what it’s worth, window parts are a LOT cheaper and easier compared to all that ^ other stuff.
These cars are almost 60 years old. They need a lot of work. Like, pretty much everything.

To quote you: “what’s another couple more projecs”… see my sig line.
Many/most of us have been in your shoes 🤪

 

Have any of you replaced the felt in the rear window channel? Am I going to have to get or borrow that special tool to do the front window channel attached to the vent window? The rubber on the outside of the vent window is in bad shape but no the inside. Personally I'd rather not deal with the vent window issues right now. The car is garage kept and when it was running years ago we didn't it under threat of rain. I'm busy with the fam after work today but I will try to remove the driver side components tomorrow and the passenger side Friday. I will get some pictures up and as always thank you for all the help and advice.

 

Have any of you replaced the felt in the rear window channel? Am I going to have to get or borrow that special tool to do the front window channel attached to the vent window? The rubber on the outside of the vent window is in bad shape but no the inside.

Yes, I have - mentioned it in a reply above/prior page maybe. Used the NPD kit. It would be a true pain if you did it per instructions (installing the felt as one piece). I followed another members suggestion and cut the felt into 3 strips. Installed the sides then the bottom or back last, however you look at it. Hardest part is cleaning out your original rear channels. True PITA. I had mine sandblasted. Freshly painted made for excellent felt adhesion.

The front channel/division bar requires zero tools just a good grip to pull it out. OK and maybe a rubber hammer to pop the new one in. I did not try but you may be able to do it with the vent window in the car…..? My gut says no due to the window would have to come out and I know mine did not want to until I had loosened the vent window assembly substantially etc.. That’s why if you do loosen it up you might as well remove it. Its definitely easy then to replace the channel and anything else you decide to do.

Besides the vent window “rivet” items. The two rubber weatherstrips are cheap and very easy to install. There is also the small rubber piece at the very tip of the vent window assembly. I think the hardest part for me was replacing the chrome vent window latches/handles. Getting that roll pin back in gently/carefully was challenging..

 

Ok, looks like I've got a lot of work ahead of me. NPD doesn't sell the front channel as a pair anymore.

 

Here is the driver side regulator and scissor assembly. The regulator is a low replacement and the scissor has no part number on it. Tracks bone dry and the wheels weren't broken but seized on the shafts. Second and third pics shows the play that I can move the scissor arm with the wheel on it towards the regulator and back towards me.