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65 Mustang fastback repair and build-up

28K views 120 replies 29 participants last post by  alex1965  
#1 ·
Just took delivery of a customer's 65 fastback. Attached are a few pictures, Whats not pictured is just as bad as what is. He's going with a front and rear AJE Racing sub-frame, so it will be getting a modern mustang's front strut set-up and rear 8.8 in a triangulated 4-link.
It will be going up on my jig frame in the next day or two, tear down will start after I have the mounting points located.
Anything that is cut out will be trashed, so if you need a small patch from something let me know during this project and I will try and get it to you.

- matt
 

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#3 ·
Owner bought it as it was his dream car. Didn't really understand how bad the condition was/is. Everything forward of the windshield and everything aft of the rear window will be replaced.
Here's the repair list:

1 Piece floor pan
add 2x torque boxes
replace trunk transition
replace both rear frame rails
replace both rear qtrs
replace both trunk drop offs
replace taillight panel
replace pass. side sail panel
replace both front frame rails
replace both shock towers
replace all panels in engine bay
salvage and patch core support
replace driver side rocker
replace cowl
replace firewall
repair/patch pass side B-pillar
repair/patch driver side A-pillar
repair/patch numerous rust holes around front windshield area
repair/patch numerous rust holes on bottom of rear window area
replace both wheel-tubs and mini-tub to the max allowed to use rear fold-down seat and fiberglass without modifications to them.
spray raptor liner on underside, front fenders and wheel-wells
 
#9 ·
First update...

Cut off the rotten front clip. I'm going to be able to salvage the core support and it's easier to get it out and cleaned up off the car.

Engine was pulled and rockers were flushed out with some water/power purple mix. Before it goes up on the jig I like to flush out the rockers with a phosphate solution. I snake a painting wand into the rockers to paint the insides and a good phosphate bath will kill off the rust on there and make the paint take much better.

Removed the windows and wire wheeled the frames. Rust everywhere, many, many patches will be needed.

Got a surprise from the shipping company. Parts were due on Tuesday but they showed up 4 days early, NPD for the win.

Next step is going to be plasma cutting out the large chunks of the rotten panels. This makes the car lighter and makes removing the welds much easier as you are only dealing with small strips and not balancing large panels.
 

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#10 ·
Image


HAHAHAHAHAHA this is officially my favorite pic I have seen in a long time! Awesome!
 
#12 ·
Since you have to go that far with it, why not install a pair of convertible inner sills. They will stiffen it up much more than sub frame connectors.
 
#13 ·
I offered it to this customer but he didn't want it. Didn't even want the one-piece seat pan that is made for coupe/fb installed, just the normal stuff. I'll have to talk to him again as he just told me he wants to drop a 500+hp motor in this.

The next car I have lined up will be a 65 fb that is getting all the road-race tricks, convert inner rockers and all. You can see the box with them inside, they are in the long thin box to the right of the boxes picture.

He provided a set of subframe connectors from AJE for me to install. I usually only recommend the TCP sub-frame kit as it's so burly and has the option for a really nice x-brace.
 
#15 · (Edited)
3rd update time...

Chopped alot more rust out.
I prefer to cut out as much rust as possible while the car is off the jug frame. This is of course as long as the removal doesn't affect the ability of the car to hold its shape as it's lifted onto the jig.

Had another chat with the owner, looks like we have a few added goodies on the list:

1. Convertible rockers
2. Shaved drip rails
3. Replace rear deck filler panel
4. Attach/weld permanent 1/2 fuel rail through one convertible rocker so that it will have AN-8 fittings opening up into the engine bay and trunk.
5. Create a pathway through the other rocker for electrical to pass through.

Next should be mounting on jig frame.
 

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#18 ·
Update time...

Loaded up the car onto the jig frame. Attaching the car up to the mating struts was a bit problematic. The shop that was working on the car before me used a plasma torch to slice out the suspension, this lead them to welding half of the forward leaf-spring bolt to the frame rail on both sides.

After a bit of careful grinding and a few minutes with an impact gun, I was able to free up the spots needed for the locating struts.

Pulled out the heater box and got the OK from the owner to sell this off along with his original steering column w/ box, 1970 code stock headers, fan, and the two shock-tower braces. If you want them I'll be posting them up in the parts section.

Next will be cutting out whats left of the firewall through the trunk pan. I will be welding in convertible rockers, then sub-frame connectors, front frame sections, etc...

I've thrown in a few pictures of the rust along the window openings (front and rear) along with a pic of the 'repair' someone did before the car was brought to me.

Looks like the car was hit in 3 places over the years, passenger front, passenger rear quarter (t-bone style) and then lastly dead center on the gas cap. The frame is tweaked pretty bad, luckily(?) we are removing so much of the car that it wont matter.

Owner also dropped off a sump pan, looks like I'll be welding a sump onto a stock mustang gas tank.

Thanks for looking!
 

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