The 200s are notorious for boiling the gas when hot. The carb sits right above the exhaust manifold causing heat issues, Ford used a spacer with heater hoses running through it to help. Do you have the spacer in place and connected to the heater correctly? You can also add a Phenolic spacer to help.

 

As I recall there is no spacer. Where can I get the phenolic spacer? That would be best if it would do the trick.

 

Classic Inlines Performance Parts - Product Detail

You can find one that matches your setup

 

Dumb question I'm sure but exactly where does the spacer go? This one does have the spacer with water in and out but no phenolic spacer..and does a gasket go under and on top of the phenolic spacer? Thanks

 

Hi Tom, On my i6, I used a gasket under and on top of the spacer. I have not had a problem since. Is it "supposed to be that way" ? I don't know, but it works for me.
Also, you can hear the gas boiling, and see steam, did you pull the air cleaner off when it happens and see/hear anything?

 

Thanks George for the quick response..As long as it works, it is OK with me as well..We did pull the breather just to be 100% sure the auto choke was standing up completely and it was..We did not notice anything else-didn't see steam or hear anything..

 

The phenolic spacer goes directly under the carb to isolate it from heat absorbed through the manifold.
There should be gaskets both under and above the carb spacer.

One other possible issue is fuel pressure. The new replacement pumps often put out too much pressure for the 60s carb. They prevent the needle valve from closing. This leads to flooding. Flooding cause rough running, poor mileage and can prevent starting until the excess gas evaporates. The solution is to add an adjustable fuel pressure regulator between the pump and carb.

 

If the spacer doesn't cure it, go to Staples and get a package of binder clips (see image) and snap them on the fuel line, especially where it runs around the front of the motor.

 

Poor man's heat sink!

 

oddly the problem stems from ford running hot coolant under the carb. it was set up to help driveability in cold weather, and to help with fuel atomization for normal day to day driving. what happens though in hotter weather is that heat from the coolant bols teh fuel in the carb float bowl, and causes a vapor lock issue, especially when the needle sticks closed a bit. if you bypass the stock carb spacer coolant passages, you reduce the amount of heat load on the carb. that should cure the problem. if not then add the classicinlines carb spacer;

Classic Inlines Performance Parts - Product Detail

 

Interestingly enough the coolant lines through the spacer are designed to both help cold weather performance by heating the carb, and hot weather performance by carrying away excess heat to the radiator. Depending on just how hot your engine runs this doesn't always work as designed. The Aussies finally fixed the issue for good with their cross flow heads. Putting the intake and exhaust manifolds on opposite sides solved the problem for good.

 

If you don't have the spacer that the heater hose connects to as Flade said, that could be the problem. Even though the coolant running through the spacer is hot, it's not as hot as the exhaust manifold and keeps the heat from the manifold from getting to the carb. The pictures show the spacer and how the hoses are routed.

Also having that spacer rasies the carb a little higher and allows the gas to atomize more before getting sucked into the combustion chamber giving a little more power. You can add a phenolic spacer but I'd get the correct spacer first.

 

read up on the phenolic spacer tom, it doesnt replace the factory adapter, it goes between the factory adapter and the carb to prevent heat from flowing to the carb, especially on a hot day.

http://classicinlines.com/proddetail.asp?prod=FSP-200-PCS&cat=44

 

Tom is correct, the heater hose routing is important. The fuel line routing is important too. It needs to stay away from the hot exhaust. Tom's pic show both well. Note the twist in the heater hoses behind the carb.

 

Rbohm yes I understand-just doubt that the 3/16" adapter will make any difference. As usual just stabbing in the dark..Might be vacuum advance--gotta get pictures of the carb and the distributor later this week..then maybe other ideas will be born...Thanks

 

It's not the thickness that matters. It's the insulation properties of the material used to make the spacer. First I would get the factory spacer as explained in my previous reply. Then add then other spacer if needed.

 

Finally got a few pics. Do these tell y'all anything?

 

Yeah. You've got a Holley 1940 WITHOUT a spark control valve and a Load-O-Matic distributor with a module. Your car probably runs like crap. Either get an 1100 or 1940 with SCV or get a later dual-advance distributor.

 

Bump

 

Ok, now we are making some progress! As Bartl said you have a mismatched carb and dizzy. First thing you need to do is trade in the dizzy for a rebuilt. They aren't very expensive. The Pertonix will work just fine in a 68 dizzy. Next will be looking at the carb. Appears likely it will need a rebuild. But first look at the head and post the part number. I think it might be a large log head. Also do you have a fuel filter in the system? Earlier cars had them at the fuel pump. Later cars had them at the carb. I don't see one at the carb in your pics.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Yes it has fuel filter at the pump.

 

Just buy the 32/36 Weber and adapter from classic inlines. I did that to my car before the alum head and it made a huge difference. Well worth the money.

 

Update on my car, guys. Dad and I got the vacuum advance and phelonic spacer installed Friday. Had to get longer carb mount studs with the addition of the spacer, but luckily the local hardware store had just the right length. Tweaked the timing, adjusted the idle mixture a little, turned the idle up a tad and she was running great. I left out at 4:30 the next morning headed to the 50 year show in Biloxi (2.5 hr away) and she ran better than ever. Never stumbled, missed or died, even in traffic on an 80+ degree day. Came back home the same afternoon and stopped at a local cruise-in, still running great and couldn't be happier. Thanks to everyone for all the advice and opinions. I know some suggested I had the wrong carb and/or dizzy but I'm not touching a thing as long as she's running this good. Thanks again.

Also, checked my gas mileage on the trip and got a little over 18 mpg.

Corey

 

nice job.

 

You're probably running at less than optimum timing curve, but you can't argue with running well. It's not like the 200 is going to make a lot of power.

 

The 68 dizzy should be a perfect match. The dual advance isn't needed without all the other parts needed to make it work correctly.

I think you'll have to find the the plastic ring used.

 

Thanks for the input, Flade.

 

I'm also running a 1940 in my 65 convertible. At the moment, I have an old 1940 in pieces in my workshop. I don't remember offhand if it came with the plastic adapter, but if it did, I'll send you a PM.

 

Thanks for checking.

 

That's exactly what I am looking for.

Thanks!