Battery cable connections.

 

Thx. I will check the negative cable that grounds to the engine block.

 

Check your battery connections and grounds.

 

Or a junk solenoid. But , first start with a clean ground and check all connections

 

Hi. I just replaced the solenoid, and also replaced the alternator regulator. Still nothing. No crank, nothing. Silence. I'll check battery cable connections as noted. Thx!

 

The single click you're hearing is likely the contacts closing inside the solenoid, in other words, battery voltage is sufficient to energize the electromagnet. There is a spring that disengages those contacts when the electromagnetic force is removed. If you were getting rapid fire clicking, it would suggest battery voltage was not sufficient to overcome that spring, so on the surface, we could assume voltage to be good, as well as the connections to be good. Assuming the click to be engagement of the solenoid, I'd move to the starter. Remove the starter cable and clean the connection, both the cable and the starter terminal. Many times because that connection is more exposed than a GM style starter, it's the source of the problem. Many times, folks replace the starter assuming it to be bad. Of course, that process in effect, cleans the offending connection and the car starts. Yep, it was the starter they say. Fixed by accident I say! I can't tell you how many times I've advised folks to clean the connection, and been blown off. (I worked parts counter sales for years) I also can't tell you how many times on a whim, I've tested their old starter when they return it as a core, only to find a starter in perfect condition. the question is, is it a click or a thunk? a trained ear would perceive the difference! Assuming the thunk, or "heavy" metallic sound, would suggest the starter is engaging, but not turning, as in an internal short, or open condition. a short is evidenced by turning on the headlights, and turning the key to start, headlights will dim. In either case I'd take the starter to an AutoZone and have them test it. It's FREE. Click or thunk? Either way, you're pulling the starter cable off and cleaning it so I'd start there. (pun intended of course)

 

Thx for the feeback. I will get down there and check and clean the connection of the cable from the solenoid that connects to the starter.

 

Check that you're really in Park. A faint click could just be the ignition switch itself.

Move the shifter back and forth a few times and then slam it into Park and try to start it. If that doesn't work try it in Neutral.

The Neutral Safety Switch could be out of adjustment or you could've just not gotten it all the way in Park last time you drove it. Check the simple, easy, free stuff first before you start taking anything apart.

 

Check that you're really in Park. A faint click could just be the ignition switch itself.

Move the shifter back and forth a few times and then slam it into Park and try to start it. If that doesn't work try it in Neutral.

The Neutral Safety Switch could be out of adjustment or you could've just not gotten it all the way in Park last time you drove it. Check the simple, easy, free stuff first before you start taking anything apart.

Yes, Thx! I replaced the neutral safety switch, because even before this latest problem with nothing when I turn the key, I had issues starting the car. But, before, I would jiggle the shifter (c4 automatic) both in park and in neutral and it it would eventually start. When I got nothing in either park or neutral most recently after repeated attemps, I replaced the neutral safety switch. After installing the new neutral safety switch, still nothing. No crank, silence. I also just replaced the solenoid and regulator. Still nothing. I've gotten a lot of feedback here about checking and cleaning all the grounds and connections. I'll do that now. Before I proceed to the starter or alternator. Thx again.

 

Did you align the NSS according to the Shop Manual?

 

Hi. Yes and thank you. I read the shop manual instructions very slowly and carefully, three different times on installing a new neutral safety switch. As the shop manual states, I ensured that the little pin/shank fits 31/64 inches (about 1/2 inch) down into that little hole on the neutral safety switch. And, as the manual says, I had the car in neutral when I began the installation of the new switch. When I installed it, I then had someone move the shifter into park, reverse, neutral, drive, etc. And, as I was under the car, I watched the new switch rotate when the shifter was moved into the different selections. So, it would seem I put the new switch in correctly. ?
[quick background, last time the car started, it didn't start in park, I moved it to neutral, and it started right up -- this was with the old neutral safety switch. The next morning, went to the garage, turned the key to start. nothing, either in park or neutral after several attempts. No cranking, no clicking like it was trying to start. Nothing.]
Re-capping the steps taken:
- tested battery, reading 97 percent full. lights work, horn works. battery itself seems fine.
- cleaned grounds/connections: negative cable from battery to engine block, red/positive cable from battery to solenoid, cable from solenoid to starter
- new solenoid (and cleaned all connections that go to these 4 poles) following the wiring of the old one
- new alternator regulator
- new neutral safety switch
Going back out now to try again. If nothing, I am left with installing a new alternator, new starter, new ignition switch? Absent all that, it will need to be taken to a mechanic. I'm done at that point. Thx all.

 

Starter cable might be bad. Sometimes they secretly corrode on the inside and lose conductivity. Take a jumper cable and hook it to the terminals on the starter and solenoid where the starter cable is connected. Turn the key. If it starts, it's the cable.

 

Alternator has nothing to do with starting. Stick your finger on the solenoid and have someone turn the key. If it clicks, it's not the NSS for sure. If it clicks put you ears between the solenoid and the starter, if the starter thunks but doesn't turn it's bad.

 

Thx DonnieB. I did not know the alternator has zero to do with the car actually starting. (I am not mechanical. I just read instructions, follow them, and watch hours of videos!) I will now do as you suggest here. If still nothing, appears that I would replace the starter first, with a new, fresh cable, before I would replace the alternator. Thx!

 

Google "Voltage Drop Testing" or grab your Ford Shop Manual and look for the "Starting System Diagnosis".

Voltage drop tests all done when turning the key to the "Start" position using a low DC Volt scale on your meter and "walking" the test leads along the circuit path.

Positive POST to positive battery cable terminal end.
Positive battery cable terminal end to lug on other end of cable.
Positive battery cable lug on end to starter solenoid common post.
Starter solenoid common post to starter solenoid output post.
Starter solenoid output post to lug on end of starter cable at solenoid.
Lug on end of starter cable at solenoid to lug on other end of cable at starter.
Lug on end of cable by starter to starter large post.
Starter large post to starter housing.
Starter housing to bellhousing.
Bellhousing to ground post on engine.
Ground post on engine to lug on end of ground cable at engine.
Lug on end of ground cable at engine to terminal end on ground cable at battery.
Terminal end on ground cable at battery to negative battery post.

All these should have a voltage drop of 0.1vDC or LESS except across the solenoid (common post to output post) which may be as much as 0.2vDC and across the starter motor, itself, which may be up to around 0.6v. If more then there's a "connectivity issue". Of course, all that assumes the solenoid is receiving 12v at the "S" post when turning the key to "Start".

 

Thx so much!

 

Do you own a voltmeter? Remove the small wire from the small post closest to the + battery cable. Hold the red lead of the vom to the metal inside the terminal that you pulled off. Hold the black lead to ground. Have somebody turn the key to Start and hold it there. Do you see 12V on the vom?

 

Hi! I hope to get to this today. Thank you for the feedback.

 

The terminal that you need to remove and test for 12V with the key in the Start position is the Red/Blue wire.
The Brown wire on the other small terminal delivers a full 12V to the coil during start.
What is that mess below the solenoid? It looks like the Red/Blue and Brown wires are twisted together with other wires which is totally incorrect. Here's a link to a wiring diagram.

https://averagejoerestoration.com/resources/mustang-wiring-and-vacuum-diagrams/1966-wiring-diagrams/66ignit.jpg

 

Just to speed the process, You can use a pair of pliers (handles) to jump across the 2 big terminals on the solenoid, that takes the solenoid out of the circuit, and applies 12V to the starter. If the starter is good it will engage. You'll likely see a few sparks when you do this.
I do agree your solenoid wiring looks to be your problem. It's time to peel back the electrical tape and see whats going on there.

 

So, just to be clear, the car ran, got to the point you had to wiggle the shifter to get the starter to operate, it got to where it wouldn't start at all.You then replaced the NSS, and it started normally. Then one day you had nothing., correct?

 

Hey DonnieB. Very much appreciate your guidance and attention to detail.
The last time I got it to start was with the old neutral safety switch, I wiggled the shifter and got it to start in neutral (with the old neutral safety switch). Then, the next morning nothing. BUT, I recounted that morning in my head just now. That morning, the morning after I got the car to start for the last time, I recall I have also been dealing with a chronic radiator over heating issue. Before I attempted to start the car that morning, I drained all the radiator fluid out, and for the first time I also removed the drain plugs from the engine block. I loosened the upper and lower radiator hoses from the radiator. I then ran the water full blast through the two radiator hoses for 10-15 minutes straight. This was to very aggressively flush out the clog/rust that must be in my engine block. I now recall I had a lot of water fall out onto the engine bay. Later that morning is when tried to start the car -- nothing, zero, no crank, no clicking.
This morning I been tearing into the wiring in the engine bay, removing all the tape and junk, looking wire by wire. It definitely appears I fried/shorted the wires, especially those that feed to the solenoid. The red wire that goes to the solenoid is the worst, completely frayed, exposed, and very sticky. Please see pics.
Overall, the wires in the engine bay are frayed and very brittle.
This morning, I also replaced fuse #1 and fuse #5 just to be on the safe side.
This morning I ordered a new engine gauge feed wiring harness, head light wiring harness, and alternator wiring harness. I am almost certain now that splashing a lot water onto the engine bay is what caused my problem. I'll check back in when the wiring harnesses come in. Thx to all, you guys are great.

 

I think your assessment of the situation is spot on. There's an old adage that has served me well over the years, IF you develop a new problem, there is a 88% probability that whatever you did or fixed last created the new problem. Old brittle harnesses are like sponges.
The more you work with the "electrics" the better your skills become. I think you've made some real progress, looking forward to the resolution of your issues soon. Please keep us in the loop as you progress.

 

Just to show you you're not alone, this is what I found on my headlight harness, and it got worse at the sockets! I've since learned to peel the tape back ANYTIME I see a bulge with tape. Although it was still working these repairs are suspect at best. I had a feeling there was more to your story, so I started digging. Sometimes we just need to "run the tape back" to find the answer. On my build, the harness review was near the end of the list as fender aprons and core support were replaced. Imagine my surprise! Yes, the complete headlight harness was replaced.

 

Hey guys that have been so helpful and patient. OK, this morning I replaced the engine wiring harness and replaced all the fuses in the fuse panel. The car started!! Yea! That's the good news. Bad news, the first time the car started and turned off no problem. The second time I started the car, it did not turn off. I moved the key to the off position to turn it off, the car kept running. I had to disconnect the battery to get the car to turn off. I hope it is a very simple fix? I checked that I put the wiring in correctly, following the wiring diagrams. I am out of steam and will check the wiring again tomorrow.

 

Bad ignition switch?

 

Next time try three things. First, pull the BROWN wire off the "I" terminal at the starter solenoid. If the car quits, the solenoid is stuck, internally. If that doesn't do it, pull the plug on the voltage regulator. If the car quits, replace the voltage regulator. Otherwise, you have power entering circuit 16/16A somewhere, either the ignition switch or a short with a hot wire somewhere.

 

Hey guys: OK, after putting in a fresh, new engine wiring harness two days ago, as noted the car started but would not turn off. I took a day off to ease my frustration. I came back at it this morning fresh and positive -- I replaced the alternator wiring harness and the headlight wiring harness. SUCCESS! The car starts, and turns off. I did this seven times to test it, no problem.
Here is my may take on why my car wouldn't start initially: My wiring in the engine bay was very old and brittle, probably original to the car. When I power flushed the radiator through the entire coolant system, with both upper and lower radiator hoses removed, I got a lot of water spill over onto the engine bay. That further fried the wiring when I attempted to start the car. I saw some exposed wires, and saw melted wires when I peeled off the tape. One of the fuses also blew. Through this process, I also now have a new solenoid, new alternator regulator, and a new starter. All good.
I want to thank all you guys for your help, wisdom, and patience. Great forum here! I hope to return the favor. Thx again!

 

So we start with a guy overwhelmed by an electrical problem, but unafraid to test his boundaries. Throw in a manual and some sound advise, a few troubleshooting directions, and we come out with a guy who found his problem, and then provides an analysis, as to the what, where and when. Trust me, the "teachers" here are more thrilled than you. Looks like you're on your way, and we couldn't be prouder! Hopefully the next electrical issue you face won't be so intimidating. My personal goal (and others I'm sure) is to teach you some troubleshooting skills that go beyond today's issue. This is a very rewarding hobby, and unlike many of the things we do in life, has a tangible reward, quickly seen. Sometimes it's not fun, but no pain, no gain. File away the feeling of accomplishment you feel today, it will serve you well at a future date. Next time you run across a stumper, hit us up, the doctors are always on call. The fee is only that you contribute at a later date.

 

Very well said! Your help and patience, and that of others here, was instrumental.
I am not mechanical, not having worked on cars prior to this. Now that I am retired, I have time.
I hope to help the next person who has a similar issue.
Thx so much.