Sequence; (I've done this last winter on my Shelby....)
Jack the car up to a position that you are comfortable with and can still lean over the fenders. Use good solid jack stands, not wood piles, cement blocks, cheap stands.
You will need a floor jack to use.
1. Disconnect and drain the power steering lines. (Might not be necessary if you are not removing these parts)
2. Disconnect the tie rods from the spindle arms.
3. Disconnect the brakes on each side. If you have disk brakes, support the caliper, do not let it hang from the hose.
4. Disconnect the steering stabilizer bar. Remove it if you are replacing it, or changing the frame bushings.
6. IF you are replacing the strut bar bushings at the forward end of the bar, remove the large nut now.
7. Disconnect the 2 strut bar bolts/nuts. Tthese bolts are seriated and should not turn in the arm, loosen by the nuts only.
8. Disconnect the lower ball joint from the spindle.
9. Remove the bolt that the lower control arm pivots on at the frame.
10. Disconnect the upper ball joint from the spindle.
11. Put a block of wood on top of the floor jack. Raise the upper control arm so you can disconnect the bottom of the ball joint. Make sure the floor jack cannot roll as that will let the arm back down.
12. Remove the top bolts of the shock, remove the shock.
13. IF, you are replacing the spring, remove the top structure part over the spring that the shock bolted to.
14. Your choice: I used the longest radiator clamps and put them around the spring. one set forward, one set rearward. then tightened them. Well, that is a little dangerous if those clamps let go. So, I'll suggest you use a spring compressor and compress the spring to where it lifts off of the lower pivot. Spring compressors are available at Autozone for a deposit that you get back when returned.
15. Remove the 2 nuts on the inside on the engine compartment that hold the upper arm in. Remove the upper control arm.
16. Remove the nut on the steering gear box side of the tie rod system
17.Remove the idler arm
Now, some other things to concider: Now is the time to do the "Shelby" drop of the upper control arm. Do a Search
Are you also doing the upper control arm shaft?
Now might also be the time to think about the rollerized upper control arm spring perch pivots
Did you get new lower contol arm pivot bolts/eccentric?
Alignment: don't sweat the caster, use a level that touches the steel rim only (the tires bulge), just move the ecentric to get the bubble level., and use a tape measure to get the toe in close. Then get a pro who knows how to do early Mustangs to do the alignment. Bring the alignment specs to him, they may not know these and their info might not have them.
Gamble: Give the alignment tech a $20.00 tip...BEFORE he does the work.
