In 68 they are usually attached to a bracket that mounts to the fuze box. (See pic below). In 67 some were on the bracket some were in other places. The A/C relay should be on that same plate. Did you remove the plate and or relays When removing the A/C wiring? In 67/68 the warning light was often part of the Safety / Convenience light set. Since your light was under the dash, you don’t have that option installed so it is possible the seat belt warning light was dealer installed or owner installer. They could have put the relay anywhere.

 

In 1967, if the Deluxe Seat Belts were ordered, the Seat Belt Warning Light was mounted at the bottom of the dash unless the Safety Convenience System was also ordered as an Option. See attached.
While typically mounted to the Windshield Wiper Motor Bracket as shown, I have also seen them on the Pedal Bracket that goes from the Dash to the Firewall.

Bob

 

Hello,
i m french and my 67 mustang have the seat belt warning light, but the relay is not working. The light stay on after 10 minutes for exemple. i test it ou t of the car with a battery but it is the same.
Is it possible to repair the relay ? i have also an other relay and it is the same !!!
Thank you for your answer
Regards
Oliver

 

The relay works buy having a coil of wire around a bi-metal strip. When you turn on the car the strip is flat and contacts to a pin allowing power to flow through the strip to the the warning light. After a short time the coil heats up the strip and it bends away from the pin turning off the light. It remains like that until you turn off the car. Then the strip cools down and flattens again. In your case it sounds like the coil is burnt out or it’s not getting power. If you could find the right coil wire it could be fixed, but that’s not likely. Original relays are not rare, but take a little work to find unless you know where to look.
Relay - Seat Belt Warning Light - Used ~ 1967 - 1971 Mercury Cougar / 1967 - 1971 Ford Mustang

You can also buy a brand new light with a LED bulb that doesn't melt the lens and an electronic timer that doesn’t burn out. It’s available from most Mustang parts suppliers

https://documents.holley.com/10c876_inst.pdf

 

I bought an original used wiring on ebay with fuse,relay and bezel.
When i wanted to install it on my car, i saw the relay in place and after i found the wiring
I replaced the relay and it worked during 3-4 mounths and i drive the car 3-4 times by mounth not every day
I open the relay
See pics attached
Thank you for the link, but WCCC don t ship to france since one mounth because there is new rules and they don t know when it will return normal

³

 

Are you saying that it is NOT working now? Check that the two metal strips are touching each other and, if so, that the touching surfaces are clean. If they aren't touching, gently bend the strip WITHOUT the coiled wire at the bottom until it just barely touches... and I mean BARELY. You can test as long as you protect the metal strips from grounding and bend the strip to shorten/lengthen the time the light stays "on".

 

Measure the resistance between the two terminals with the tiny wire. It should not be OPEN. It's nichrome wire in a high temperature insulating jacket. You might find a source for the wire. The insulating jacket you may need to reuse. They usually burn in the middle. It's like they know that's the unrepairable spot. Use lead solder if you can find some. Some of the new solders are low temperature and will not hold in this environment.

 

Hello ylexot
I mesure between these two points ?

 

Yes.

 

Thank you
I will test it this week-end and come back to you
Have a nice day

 

Then the wire (heater) is open. We were just trying to verify that with a meter. Check where the wire bonds to the pins. If you are lucky, the break is there and you can unwind a turn and re-solder.

 

Very complicated to remove this wire I will try

Lost for lost

 

No continuity betwee red arrows and continuity between blue arrows
I think it means that the wire is broken, no ?

 

Can you see a break in the wire anywhere? Nichrome likes to 'burn through' but since this is a mechanical movement system it could have broken at either end.

edit: I'm old enough that most things are done with a magnifier or a microscope nowadays.

 

I gently scraped the wire and found the broken wire

I twisted them together and it works again

Until when I don't know
Thank you for all your message
Now i know how reapir it