My 65 coupe has the Classic Auto Air system but I did not install it. I have been told they cost anywhere from $2K to $3K to install - I assume that means it would be a challenge for a weekend mechanic. I have the install instructions and they seem good for some of the install and weak in other parts of the install. My system works very well and blows cold air from four vents. Personally, I wouldn't do it but mainly due to physical restrictions.

 

Not at all. It was super easy. Just tedious. Now, my 68’ car was already setup for an under dash unit in 1973 with a Sears unit so I didn’t have to cut any of the factory location firewall or bulkhead pieces. 2-3k is kind of a rip for an under dash esp if that’s pure labor. In dash I could see it. That’s a lot more involved.

 

Thanks for the input. I have all the parts off the front of the engine and grille work/radiator removed. So its ready for an install. I called Classic Auto and decided to go with a new aluminum York compressor replacement plus the other parts that go with it (hose, receiver/dryer, clutch brushes, etc.). I will have to swap the old clutch mechanism to the new. There is the first hitch - how do stop the pulley/clutch plate from spinning so I can remove the center bolt holding the clutch on? Some Youtube videos show a screwdriver inserted on some bosses on the face of the clutch plate on different compressors however on the old York compressor the pulley/clutch face is smooth. What's the secret to holding the clutch plate from spinning so I can loosen the bolt?

 

Connect the wiring for the clutch to the evaporator. Turn your key on without starting the engine to power up the ac evaporator. With the engine still not running, turn the ac on low. This will turn on the clutch locking it into place allowing you to turn the bolt head. Turn the ignition off when you’re done.

If you’re running a Pertronix electronic setup there’s some evidence that leaving the key on without running the engine for some time can kill the system. If you have one, disconnect the coil before you turn the ignition on. For what it’s worth, I left mine with a Pertronix 1 connected by accident for about 5 minutes and it didn’t hurt it.

 

Ok, I got the center bolt out. Next step is to get the dual pulley/clutch plate off the shaft. I see where a 5/8" bolt will thread into the hole. So what tool (or trick) is needed prevent the clutch plate from turning when I turn the 5/8" bolt in? Thanks again.

 

If you use an impact gun to screw the 5/8" bolt in you dont need to hold anything.

 

I did an aftermarket unit, it wasn’t CAA, it was another brand, but same concept. Wasn’t too hard, but was a bit time consuming. I did it while I had the cowl off for replacement which really made it easier. Nothing particularly hard just awkward doing anything under the dash.

 

I have one that I am installing now. Between the instructions and this video, I am making good progress.

.

 

Went to the Farm and Tractor store and got the 5/8" bolt. The impact wrench took off the pulley and clutch in a jiffy. Thanks for the tip. Next question - when I ordered the replacement York Compressor from Classic Auto Air they recommended I replace the brush set so I included one in the order. However there is no brush set on my compressor. IWhen I removed the compressor from the car the only wire going to it is one from a bullet connector that starts at the firewall and goes all the way over to the compressor and disappears inside the round magnet coil, there is no brush set in between. Were there some setups that did not have a brush set? Maybe I don't need this part?

 

Are you documenting the install,...I’d like to follow.

 

just as a followup on my Classic Auto Air Daily Driver install. I used the video I posted above as a directional guide, here are the highlights and problems:

1. The inside unit I was able to install using existing holes in the dash, but I did have to drill alternate holes on the braces that attach to the dash in order to use those holes. Outside of working under the dash, all of that went well ( I did have the seats out for easier access, but probably not required) Drilling the two drain hose holes into the floor (on the transmission hump) was a bit difficult just due to location and I had already installed the system. If I had to do it again, I would fit the blower, mark where the holes needed to be, then take it out, then drill the holes.
2. The holes needed in the firewall were a PITA to drill since you don't have a direct shot at them with the valve cover location. I used a metal hole saw, and I guess the tip of the day is, go very, very slow, or the drill will be jerked out of your hand if you get to big of a bite since its at an angle.
3. The installation of the new crank pulley was a bit difficult not because of anything other than how hard it is to get to the fan bolts to remove it. My old crank had three belt grooves, two were being used for the alternator and the third in the same location as the new crank pulley but unused.. It would of been nice to just use it rather than replacing a crank pulley for one that is 1" less in diameter.
4. The documentation is lacking in regards to installation of the compressor. Essentially it is a drawing of how it is installed, which includes a lot of spacers to get it lined up properly. It wasn't hard, but no step by step on how to do it.
5. On the topic of the compressor installation, I unfortunately attempted to loosen the wrong bolt on the water pump (because I had a drawing only and thought I knew which one it was), and it twisted off. I posted a question here on the forum on my plan forward and everyone said to replace the water pump. That part was a good call as the water pump was very rusty, but unfortunately the bolt that broke did not have enough protruding to remove easily. After attempting an easy out, which would not budge the frozen bolt, I ended up retapping directly into the same bolt and it ended up going better than I thought. I don't think that bolt was ever coming out. My other option was to pull the timing cover which I really didn't want to do. The rest of the bolts came out okay, but one would not re-tighten, so I used a helicoil to get that one to tighten. I guess the lesson learned here is use anti-sieze compound if you don't want to have to do something like this.
6. The condenser and drier installed in front of the radiator was not to bad install but I already had most of grill off already. There were two dimples to drill the holes, one from the inside and one from the outside, and using those it fit perfectly. The pressure switch installation documentation was sketchy, but I figured it out. Pressure switch installs next to the drier, two wires go through the firewall, one to the compressor, one to the blower.
7. I installed the R134A refrigerant myself, and that went okay, but could of used a better gauge/hose system than the cheapie I bought. I rented a vacuum unit from Autozone and let it run overnight (the manual recommend minimum of 45 minutes).
8. I put clamps on the drain hose lines, as they leaked a bit inside the car.
9. I ended up calling support on the refrigerant tape that they provided but gave no explanation on where it went. It goes on the #10 line (i.e. the bigger line coming out of the blower) to prevent condensation build-up during operation.

Overall, this was not difficult to install, just time consuming, and a bit frustrating because of breaking the wrong water pump bolt. That will probably be a blessing in disguise that I don't know about.

I haven't been able to test it out on the road as I have a few weeks of other installation work to do before my car is drive-able, but it does blow very cold. I ran it two different times for about 30 minutes and it worked great.

On a final note, as a retired mechanical engineer, I wish I could sit down and discuss the design of the fan bolts along with the inside bolt on the thermostat housing. Someone with a lot smaller hands than me thought that would work well I guess

Hope this helps someone on future installs, I included a few photos of it installed.

Blake

 

just as a followup on my Classic Auto Air Daily Driver install. I used the video I posted above as a directional guide, here are the highlights and problems:

1. The inside unit I was able to install using existing holes in the dash, but I did have to drill alternate holes on the braces that attach to the dash in order to use those holes. Outside of working under the dash, all of that went well ( I did have the seats out for easier access, but probably not required) Drilling the two drain hose holes into the floor (on the transmission hump) was a bit difficult just due to location and I had already installed the system. If I had to do it again, I would fit the blower, mark where the holes needed to be, then take it out, then drill the holes.
2. The holes needed in the firewall were a PITA to drill since you don't have a direct shot at them with the valve cover location. I used a metal hole saw, and I guess the tip of the day is, go very, very slow, or the drill will be jerked out of your hand if you get to big of a bite since its at an angle.
3. The installation of the new crank pulley was a bit difficult not because of anything other than how hard it is to get to the fan bolts to remove it. My old crank had three belt grooves, two were being used for the alternator and the third in the same location as the new crank pulley but unused.. It would of been nice to just use it rather than replacing a crank pulley for one that is 1" less in diameter.
4. The documentation is lacking in regards to installation of the compressor. Essentially it is a drawing of how it is installed, which includes a lot of spacers to get it lined up properly. It wasn't hard, but no step by step on how to do it.
5. On the topic of the compressor installation, I unfortunately attempted to loosen the wrong bolt on the water pump (because I had a drawing only and thought I knew which one it was), and it twisted off. I posted a question here on the forum on my plan forward and everyone said to replace the water pump. That part was a good call as the water pump was very rusty, but unfortunately the bolt that broke did not have enough protruding to remove easily. After attempting an easy out, which would not budge the frozen bolt, I ended up retapping directly into the same bolt and it ended up going better than I thought. I don't think that bolt was ever coming out. My other option was to pull the timing cover which I really didn't want to do. The rest of the bolts came out okay, but one would not re-tighten, so I used a helicoil to get that one to tighten. I guess the lesson learned here is use anti-sieze compound if you don't want to have to do something like this.
6. The condenser and drier installed in front of the radiator was not to bad install but I already had most of grill off already. There were two dimples to drill the holes, one from the inside and one from the outside, and using those it fit perfectly. The pressure switch installation documentation was sketchy, but I figured it out. Pressure switch installs next to the drier, two wires go through the firewall, one to the compressor, one to the blower.
7. I installed the R134A refrigerant myself, and that went okay, but could of used a better gauge/hose system than the cheapie I bought. I rented a vacuum unit from Autozone and let it run overnight (the manual recommend minimum of 45 minutes).
8. I put clamps on the drain hose lines, as they leaked a bit inside the car.
9. I ended up calling support on the refrigerant tape that they provided but gave no explanation on where it went. It goes on the #10 line (i.e. the bigger line coming out of the blower) to prevent condensation build-up during operation.

Overall, this was not difficult to install, just time consuming, and a bit frustrating because of breaking the wrong water pump bolt. That will probably be a blessing in disguise that I don't know about.

I haven't been able to test it out on the road as I have a few weeks of other installation work to do before my car is drive-able, but it does blow very cold. I ran it two different times for about 30 minutes and it worked great.

On a final note, as a retired mechanical engineer, I wish I could sit down and discuss the design of the fan bolts along with the inside bolt on the thermostat housing. Someone with a lot smaller hands than me thought that would work well I guess

Hope this helps someone on future installs, I included a few photos of it installed. View attachment 765747 View attachment 765748 View attachment 765749 View attachment 765750

Blake

Excellent build thread. Thanks for sharing.

 

Thanks