Bump

 

Message member sportsroof69. He ran Calvert split mono leafs a few years ago on his 1969 Mach1.

 

I

I guess i should mention my car is a 66 coupe. Probably different for a 69 car

 

On mine (65) I upgraded to the del-a-lum bushings which fit the monos almost perfectly.

 

I saw those. Ive built a few racecars in my time and ive found youve gotta read through the bs of what people think you need and what you actually need. I read why they said you should have the aluminum bushings in the rear and i dont know if i buy it. I just dont see poly bushings moving that much to act like a torque arm. I havent had that problem with past builds making more power than what i wanna make with this mustang. Im all about spending every dollar i need to make the car right but i dont want to waste money on things unnecessary. What are your thoughts on the importance of the aluminum bushings in the rear? Im open to buying them if they will actually make a difference on the car. I dont know though how id press them into the rear rails with the rear rails in the car.

 

In a leaf spring drag application with Caltracs, any binding in the suspension works against the car during launch. Aluminum bushings (preferably with steel inserts) allow for free movement when the attaching hardware used also allowed free movement. The aluminum bushings do not need to be "pressed" into the frame rails but they should be in a near press like situation. The pivoting action needs to done at the bolts and the typical nuts used are nylocks or doubled up nuts. When properly tightened, these devices will allow the shackle bolts to rotate without much force.

 

So are you saying polyurethane bushings do not allow free movement of the shackles?

 

No, I am not saying that as I have not used the poly bushings. I know that Aluminum bushings can be very free, especially when an inner steel insert is used.

 

Are you sure that you've got their "mono leaf springs" as opposed to their "split mono leaf springs" as there appears to be a pretty big difference between the two? I'm assuming that you've got their "split mono leaf springs" which on their website it says "All of Calvert Racing’s 2.5″ wide Split Mono Leafsprings are assembled to order with grade 8 hardware and heavy-duty alignment clamps. Aluminum bushings are pressed into the front spring eyes and polyurethane bushings in the rear spring eyes," So, it sounds as though you are supposed to use the aluminum bushings for the front spring eyes and polyurethane bushings in the rear spring eyes. I'd check to see exactly what you've got, maybe make a phone call to Calvert Racing and double check everything before installing. They've also got some polyurethane bushings available for sale, though it doesn't say if they have them for mustangs. I'd call them up and double check with everything that you're doing first before continuing on but I think you've got the split mono's. I don't run those leaf springs but have poly bushings on one of my cars and haven't ever had any issues with it.

SPLIT MONO LEAFSPRINGS – Calvert Racing, Inc.

calvertracing.com

PARTS & ACCESSORIES – Calvert Racing, Inc.

calvertracing.com

 

Yes i ha

Yes i have the split mono leafs. I know they come with poly but global west and many others argue you get less bind and lateral movement of the leafs if you run aluminum bushings with steel inserts in the back just like the front. I think ill go with the global west de a lum shackles everyone thanks!

 

I've never seen a kit for aluminum bushings for the rear shackles. I personally made my own on the lathe and the first set didn't have the steel inserts. After a year's use I noticed that the aluminum bushings had worn, mostly due to having a 3" offset shackle for the mini tub (which I moved the leaf springs inboard.) That's when I added steel inserts (basically modeling the Calvert front bushings but shaped the rear bushings like the original 2 pc stock rear bushings) and wear has been non-existent after 8-9 years of hard usage.

The thru bolts used are grade 8 with washers on both sides and a nylock nut, which is never fully snug so they can rotate too. I use white grease as the lube to help the shackle and bolt to freely rotate. I do the same on the front too. I doubt that a leaf spring suspension can get any free-er that that (UNLESS rear sliders are also used in a dedicated drag strip situation.) Since this is also a street driven car, I didn't want to upset the car's normal functioning by adding sliders.

 

I've never seen a kit for aluminum bushings for the rear shackles. I personally made my own on the lathe and the first set didn't have the steel inserts. After a year's use I noticed that the aluminum bushings had worn, mostly due to having a 3" offset shackle for the mini tub (which I moved the leaf springs inboard.) That's when I added steel inserts (basically modeling the Calvert front bushings but shaped the rear bushings like the original 2 pc stock rear bushings) and wear has been non-existent after 8-9 years of hard usage.

Global West has had their Del A Lum bushing kits available for I believe at least 10 years now, and that's being quite generous. I was looking at them around that 10 year ago time frame when I went to replace the leaf springs on one of my cars but decided on going with polyurethane instead.

1964-1973 Mustang Del-A-Lum Bushings and Shackle Kit Part Number: 106SH - Global West Suspension Car Parts

Shop for 1964-1973 Mustang Del-A-Lum Bushings and Shackle Kit Part Number: 106SH for the best prices on Global West Suspension Car Parts.

www.globalwest.net