My bet is they screwed up the timing.

Start it up and turn the distributor both ways until it idles smoothly then take it from there.

 

Yep, sounds like timing to me too.

 

I just went through what sounds to be exact scenario about a week ago. I rebuilt carb, same problem. I changed fuel filter, plugs, wires, dizzy cap and rotor, tried turning the distributor, same problem. Then the only thing left were the points. I had a mallory 27 series dual point. Turns out one of the set of points were bad. Took them and condensor out and replaced with Pertronix electronic unit and this car has never run better!

 

What is it about what I said made it sound like timing? Was it the puttering and sputtering? My thought was the A/F screws... but you don't think so? If timing is not dead on, will it act the symptoms I described? Thanks for the tips.

 

I'd check both. They'll mess around with both but you can put 'em back to where the engine runs the best. They likely retarded the timing and closed down your air fuel screws.

 

Just trying to understand... since the car stalled and started sputtering and puttering when trying to accelerate only happened after the car was warmed up, does that still sound like timing? Not arguing that it isn't, just trying to get all the info. Could it be the electric choke? Thanks

 

It is just that last week cruising I felt a little stumble when I gave it a little gas. Just a quick sputter. In a matter of a minute the car just kept sputtering worse and worse to where I really just had to limp it home. once home, could barely start it let alone keep it running to diagnose. Sounded a little like what you are going through now. Also, take a couple of the plugs out and let me know what they look like. That will really help.

 

How did you determine it was running too rich?

My guess is ignition too but check to see that they didn't leave any vacuum hoses off. If you want to try and adjust your carb here are Rich's easy carb adjustment rules:

Easy idle speed carb adjustment:
Warm the car up to normal operating temperature and shut it off. Remove the air cleaner.
Screw in both idle adjustment screws (the ones on the front of the carb) until they are LIGHTLY seated (too hard and you'll distort the seat). Back them out 1 1/4 turns each. That's what we used for the baseline setting. Then with the car running adjust the screws until you have the fastest and evenest idle speed. You may find that one screw may be in some and the other out or it may be both in or both out. The trick is to get the best, even idle. Don't go more than 1/2 turn at a time and wait a little to gauge the effects. Readjust the idle speed screw to the correct idle speed (around 750 RPM) and then tweak the mixture screws again for fastest and evenest idle. At this point you shouldn't be making more than 1/8 to 1/4 turns on the screws. Screw the mixture screws evenly in a little bit at a time to drop the idle speed 75 RPM. Then set your idle speed back to 750. That's refered to as lean best idle and usually provides the best tip in response when you open the throttle.

Rich

 

The sputtering and the hard cranking. I know I've adjusted the timing on my car and taken the distributor a little too far-- advanced, I think. Couldn't get the car around the block, it died and had a hard time restarting. Moved the distributor back a little, and it fired right up.

 

I might try adjusting the distributor and see if that makes a difference but I've got a buddy coming over Wednesday to help me with fine tuning it. I thought it was running rich because it smelled like raw fuel and the new trumpet exhaust tips were coated in black ash just running it for a couple of minutes. I know it was running perfect BEFORE going to the mechanic!!! AAGH! I'd be out crusing right now!!! Thanks for the tips on adjusting the carb screws.

 

Good link for troubleshooting.

http://www.recarbco.com/technical/newtrouble.html#Warm_drive

 

My car did that too. The black exhaust and rich mixture turned out to be a bad power valve in the carb.