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Tkosinski2

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, new here but not to mustangs. I looked around the site already and had a few questions. People are doing these coupe to fastback conversions and I was wondering who makes the best ones? I use to own a fastback in high school and miss it very much. What I want to do to a fastback now it seems would be a shame to eliminate a true fastback. So I thought getting it converted from a coupe was an awesome idea! Seeing as there are so many coupes, what's the harm in turning one into a fastback. I definitely want to do a custom interior that looks sort of like te original but with better materials. So I'm wondering if it would not be as much of a problem then seeing as the interior company I'm sure will build there own supports, no?
 
I've done several swaps already- I typically find a coupe with a decent body, and a fastback with a good roof and doorjamb metal to use as a doner. You can usually find fb's on EBay and Craigslist being sold for parts, etc- try to find one with glass and most of the interior trim if you're going to use it. Otherwise buying it all separate can get expensive. The actual swap is simple, once you start cutting the fastback apart, you'll see the alignment holes the factory used when assembling them. Key to success here- measure twice, go away for a while, measure twice again... then cut!
 
Hey guys, new here but not to mustangs. I looked around the site already and had a few questions. People are doing these coupe to fastback conversions and I was wondering who makes the best ones?
Ford Motor Company. You find a donor car and start cutting! There are a lot of aftermarket parts coming on the market, but I have not seen a complete "kit" marketed as of yet. Also keep in mind that there several items still not reproduced. One off the top of my head is the stainless trim that goes under the drip rail that hold the door glass weather strip in place. Last set I saw on eBay went for $600.
Another is the stainless trim around the door glass. Make sure you get those too! Glass is sold new, but no trim.

I definitely want to do a custom interior that looks sort of like the original but with better materials. So I'm wondering if it would not be as much of a problem then seeing as the interior company I'm sure will build there own supports, no?
You can order leather covers from one of the Big names. I think it was Distinctive Industries that does them in leather. And I know TMI will custom stitch up covers using modern materials on newer cars too. Not sure what you are referring to with the "supports" though? Seat cushions? They are all reproduced also.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Wow thanks for the advice. So basically doing it myself isn't out of the question. That's good to hear. I've taken a body class and many auto classes in school and can weld. So I was hoping I could do the whole project if possible. ScottGT, as far as supports I mean the brackets holding the rear interior in.

Oh that brings me to my second question. I would really like to shave the drip rails but what I've never seen is how do people weather strip it? Or what do they do? Nobody ever goes further than just showing how the shave it
 

Just the structural kit. None of the missing trim I mentioned or glass.

Oh also. It's been a while since I've looked but people are really making new glass for the 65 fastback rear window and door windows?
Yes, mostly off shore products. But Auto City Classics has it all for a lot less than the Mustang Vendors sell it for. I bought all of mine for less than $850 shipped truck freight. I got the smoked glass. That includes the windshield.

Image
 
Drip rail removal is a slow and tedious process. If you take a look at your coupe, you can see just on the outside of the seal area is where it gets cut off. Using a 4" cut off wheel, you slice off the drip rail and weld the roof skin to the metal below that the weather strip stainless screws into. You have to work in small sections at a time. Cut off a couple inches, weld, grind, reweld if needed and then cut a little more and weld more. Cut too much and the roof skin could lift too high and heat can warp it easier.
 
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