The tube I marked with a green arrow is the "hot air tube" coming out of the engine that won't connect to the new carburetor because it's the wrong size.. I can't figure out how to remove this tube so I'm not sure what to do.

 

That’s a power valve. What in the heck is it doing there?
Im asking our expert 6 cyl guys because I have no idea.

 

Not a power valve, That's part of the SVC for the Load-a-Matic distributors.

 

Your new carb is for the earlier cars with the LaM distributor. The old one appears to be for the newer distributors.

 

Yep, Spark Control Valve mates with a Load-o-matic distributor. It can be omitted if you "plug" it and make some adjustments.

Go to Mike's Carburetors for parts and videos on an Autolite 1100 carb. If you don't find what your looking for post back and we'll help you find them.

Welcome to the VMFs.

 

Definitely a LaM carb. My 10/66 car still has its original carb and it's a match to yours. If it has 2 accelerator pumps, it's for an A/T. Stick shift carbs only had 1.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

 

so it would seem o reilleys sent me a carb for 65-66 SCV setup instead of the 68 non-SCV distributor setup.

 

As mentioned, they gave you the wrong carb. The new one is for the earlier engines with the load-o-matic distributor, LOM. The part that looks like a power valve is a spark control valve, SCV. Your ignition's vacuum advance will not work properly. I hope O'Reilly's can make it right. Or just get the old carb rebuilt, or do it yourself. Rebuilding most carbs is pretty doable.

 

I've had a few different carbs on my car over the years - a couple old 1100s, a new one, a Holley 1904, and for fun an 1101 for a while. I think the choke tube connection on all of them was the same thread. But the new, presumably of Oriental extracture 1100 carburetor had pretty tight threads there, and the nut had to be perfectly aligned to start. Is your tube connector size obviously off, or is it just not starting? Don't get rid of your old carb. Are you sure it can't be fixed? And this would be a good time to verify what distributor you have - it should be the non-LOM one, but you never know with these old cars. Stuff gets changed all the time, and not necessarily to the right part.

 

Is your tube connector size obviously off, or is it just not starting? Don't get rid of your old carb. Are you sure it can't be fixed? And this would be a good time to verify what distributor you have - it should be the non-LOM one, but you never know with these old cars. Stuff gets changed all the time, and not necessarily to the right part.

The connector size is off by 1-2mm.

I don't really know the first thing about fixing carbs and was hoping swapping it out would be the fix. For all I know it's not even the carb that's the problem. But the issue I'm having (engine randomly sputtering and dying) only seems to happen after warming up and got worse and worse over the course of a long multi day trip so I'm suspecting it's the carb.

 

Handle that cloth on the tube carefully and wear a mask & gloves if it is original. Back in those days that was asbestos cloth.

 

I bought my new carb from O'Reillys, it was the only option available for a '68 with an i6. It will bolt on, but the ?hot air tube? that connects to it is the wrong size and there appears to be a small difference with a depressible plug... whereas the old carb has nothing there? Unless that's just a cap of some kind? What is this thing?? Circled in red.

View attachment 834010

View attachment 834008

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It's the white cloth wrapped tube that connects up to the left and also doesn't fit the new carb's hole.

Judging on this lengthy thread, did I end up with an SCV carb when I need a non-SCV?

1968 mustang 6 cylinder carburetor question

Hello everyone! I need some help. I'm a newbie in this kind of stuff so please bear with me. I recently got a 1968 mustang 6 cylinder. Everything seems to be ok except for the carburetor, its quite old and I think its better to replace it to avoid headaches, im not considering using a repair...

www.vintage-mustang.com

What would be your recommendation? Buy parts to make the new carb I got work, or try to find a replacement that is identical?

Thanks for any advice.

Can`t comment on the SCV bit of your question . The part number on the quality rebuilt tag seems to have the same part number so go back to the store and show them the difference and let them order carbs until you get one like yours.
As to the hot air choke problem just take off the old one and put it on the new carb.

 

I couldn't attach the hot air choke from the old one to the new one because the new carb's hole was too small for it to fit into.

My original carb order from o'reilleys was part 1-169, which was what I showed pictured in this thread. I went back and on their website, 1-170 looks identical to my old carb (non-SCV) so I tried to order that. But when it showed up, it wasn't like the picture or my old carb... it was identical to 1-169 (the SCV carb).

I can't find anywhere on the internet that sells the non-SCV carb like my original one... can anyone help me find a website that sells it?

 

Unfortunately many rebuilders treat all the carbs as interchangeable when they really are not.

The choke fitting only comes in one size. What problem are you having with it? Be aware that the vast majority of them have the threads torn up making it difficult or impossible to thread. They make brass repair fittings you can use for them.

You can run the SCV carb with your later care just fine with one slight modification. The SCV modulates the vacuum signal at the vacuum port in the carb to control the spark advantage in the distributor. This won’t work correctly with a non Load a Matic Distributor. However you can just run the distributor advance off manifold vacuum instead of the ported vacuum on t(e carb. Many people find the engine runs better this way too. If you want to do this just plug the vacuum port on the carb. And find a source of manifold vacuum.

 

There's usually some rebuilt Autolite 1100s on Fleabay.

 

Getting a good and correct carb (SCV for the Load-a-Matic - or not) is critical for the 6 cylinder engines. I managed to find an NOS carb on craigslist that was the right one for my car with SCV. I rebuilt the carb once I got it. It really made a difference to how reliable the car is and how well it drives overall. As mentioned above, you can find the proper carb on eBay and rebuild it yourself. It is actually really easy to rebuild the 1100 carb. You are better off doing that than getting a junk carb rebuilt by who knows who from the parts houses.

 

I have posted this in previous threads.

The parts houses catalogs are very generic and do not list carbs for specific applications, they lump an all into one p/n for multiple years.

I found this out when buying a carb from Advance. UREMCO is their rebuilder.

You will have to call the rebuilder, give them the specifics of your car and they will provide you with the correct p/n. Go back to Orielly's and order your carb with the p/n the rebuilder provided.

Specify that you want a Ford carburetor. Some rebuilders, like UREMCO are finding rebuildable cores hard to source and are using China carbs as cores.

 

I have posted this in previous threads.

The parts houses catalogs are very generic and do not list carbs for specific applications, they lump an all into one p/n for multiple years.

I found this out when buying a carb from Advance. UREMCO is their rebuilder.

You will have to call the rebuilder, give them the specifics of your car and they will provide you with the correct p/n. Go back to Orielly's and order your carb with the p/n the rebuilder provided.

Specify that you want a Ford carburetor. Some rebuilders, like UREMCO are finding rebuildable cores hard to source and are using China carbs as cores.

^ ^ ^ Ditto. Tell them you need an Autolite 1100 WITHOUT a Spark Control Valve and specify your transmission type (manual or automatic). I can't understand why there aren't suitable replacements out there... the 1100 without SCV was also used in '66-67 on Thermactor-equipped (California) vehicles... not only Mustangs but Falcons and Fairlanes (and their Mercury counterparts).

 

So, I have a replacement (Holley 1940) that does not have a SCV (and I have the LOM distributer). My car starts and runs fine (it does idle high when it warms up). Is this carb some sort of unicorn?

 

If you have a carburetor WITHOUT a SCV and a Load-O-Matic distributor your spark advance is going full-on the minute you crack the throttle (if you're taking vacuum off the carburetor spark port). The Load-O-Matic advance mechanism works on a vacuum signal varying from zero to about 4"hg, modulated by the SCV.