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Electric fan recommendation with Maxcore 3 row aluminum radiator

4K views 9 replies 8 participants last post by  65 Pony  
#1 ·
I've got an aluminum 3 row Maxcore radiator in my 66 convertible with a 289. Still using the stock fan, no shroud, and no A/C on the car. I do have a radiator overflow tank. Does anyone use an electric fan with this radiator and if so, do you recommend it? No issues with overheating while driving, just with long idles. And I don't know if it makes a difference, but I've got a Holley 4 bbl street warrior on it, Weiand aluminum intake, aluminum valve covers, and HiPo exhaust manifolds that are all recent additions.

I spent a couple of hours reading old threads and looking at different electric fan options, but there's a lot to choose from LOL.

Back story - I overheated for the first time ever last weekend. Weather was cool, but I ended up idling for 30 minutes while stuck in a huge line waiting to enter a car show. The temperature held around 215ish for quite a while, then went up to 230 very quickly. At that point, I pulled out of line and shut it down. The radiator vented some steam (14 lb. cap - first time I'd ever seen it do that), but there was plenty of coolant left when it cooled down.
 
#2 ·
Maybe add a shroud? Makes a big difference in pulling air thru the radiator efficiently.

Nothing wrong with an electric fan, just seems like there might be a simpler (and cheaper) solution.

If that doesn’t work, then search for an electric fan (or fans) that fits your radiator core, and is shrouded. And of course you’ll need a thermostatic switch with relay to power it etc etc


Sent from the interwebs... where else?
 
#3 ·
Well, I hate to tell you this but, the e-fan, it's a 50/50 that it will solve your problem. Let me explain....
I know many seem to be under the impression (marketing) that aluminum construction by itself will enhance cooling, there is a little more to it than that...and in many instances buyers are actually comparing apples to oranges when comparing a copper core spec to an aluminum spec radiator. US Radiator has a nice vid on their site that yeah, it does talk about the company a bit, but also talks about Copper vs aluminum & gives a good presentation of design limitations.

US Radiator has been around for 40+ years. The guy who presently owns it started working there 30 years ago and with the exception of 1 or 2 items, everything is built at their facility. They are also great to talk with on the phone and if you tell them exactly what you have, what are your concerns or wants, they will tell you exactly what to order (which has to be done through they vendor network). I don’t know of anyone (including the racing community) who has not been pleased with them!

Link: U.S. Radiator | The Difference Is In The Tooling

US Radiator Corporation
4423 District Boulevard
Vernon, California
323-826-0965

Another option if the radiator is the issue is...

Radiator Express
www.radiatorexpress.com
Irvine, CA
866-723-3977

I have always purchased from US Radiator, but when the radiator plastic part began failing on my wifes 97 Cougar Sport (which lasted 17 years with an anode), called them and it's too new of a car and they recommended them....excellent product and service!!!!

Properly maintained, the oem systems are more than adequate, what has changed is the high flow water pumps etc. which reduce the time the cooling system has to absorb heat and dissipate heat.........if the flow is slowed back to OEM spec's, you will see (typically) temp reduction- and the ability to maintain operational temp range greatly increased..... but it is seldom necessary if the radiator is of the proper design/size (and I'm not referring to the number of core rows, etc.)

One of the issues with chinese sourced radiators (and I'm say that yours is), but there are a lot of issues with them........example... Assuming all of the seam are properly welded (they have their moments when pre-mature failure- pinholes- occur), cooling is more than the number of tubes or material, its number of fins versus number & size of tubes....i.e. rate of flow and the amount of heat that can be exchanged in a specific amount of time.......many times these units are cheaper because they do not have an adequate number of fins......

Quality of welds........typically poor and pinholes start showing at the 5-8 year mark

Corrosion (internal).....almost all American radiators (aluminum) have or have as an option (and usually recommend if not already permanently installed) an anode- basically acts as a sacrificial lamb for electrolysis based corrosion (very, very predominant with aluminum radiators, water pumps) and helps keep the ph level neutral. Without this, I have seen a host of promulgated failures including radiator, hoses, water pumps, head gaskets, thermostat covers- where the material is literally eaten away because of electrolysis...... ie. you need an anode!

With regards to E-Fans, supposedly the curve blades are quieter but, in the aftermarket world 99% of the e-fans are junk in terms of design & quality IMHO. The OEM units flow anywhere from 50% to 200% more CFM than the "Hi Perf" aftermarket units, last for years in real world daily, all weather use and are quiet- and are less expensive in most cases! A few years ago, I bought a replacement assembly for my wife's 1997 Cougar Sport (V8) (the bearings in the e-motor were starting to whine).....the entire assembly including the shroud was $120 with tax (I bought the entire assembly because the motor itself was $80).

You will also hear/read about people having issues/concerns with their engines running warm/hot, once it is really verified and there are no mechanical issues, 99% it can be traced right to these HP Aftermarket fans.....those using oem units- I have never in 20 years heard of an issue related to them in any way in regards to cooling. There are many on the market to choose from…..the V6 Ford Taurus fan (90-95 3.8L), If space is tight, the 95-00 V6 Ford Contour, 99-02 V6 Mercury Mystique, 99-02 V6 are flatter in design IIRR but if you don’t mind making your own shroud…..


Hope this helps.............
 
#4 ·
How much space (in inches) do you have between the face of the radiator and the water pump pulley? That distance is going to be your limiting factor on the size of electric fan you can get. Get that measurement and then buy the highest CFM Spal fan that will physically fit on the radiator and between the rad and the water pump pulley.


But I would try adding a shroud before jumping to an electric fan.
 
#5 ·
If you have a 24" wide radiator, you can fit a Ford Coutour fan assembly. It comes with two fans mounted onto the factory shroud. I got this one at Rock Auto. These fans put out about 3200CFM, and will cool just about anything. They do require 8 or 10 gauge to connect them up due to the motors amp draw. Here's mine mounted to a Ron Davis big block radiator, it fits with about 3/4" between the fans and the engine.
 
#6 ·
If you have a 24" wide radiator, you can fit a Ford Coutour fan assembly. It comes with two fans mounted onto the factory shroud. I got this one at Rock Auto. These fans put out about 3200CFM, and will cool just about anything. They do require 8 or 10 gauge to connect them up due to the motors amp draw. Here's mine mounted to a Ron Davis big block radiator, it fits with about 3/4" between the fans and the engine.
How did you mount the fan/shrouds to the radiator?

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