Some of you may have seen I recently suffered a valve train failure with my 351 Cleveland. The engine is now on a stand and the heads are at the machine shop. I'm trying to get ready to put the engine back into the car and I want to paint it nice and pretty before doing so. When I rebuilt the engine, I used Duplicolor engine paint in a rattle can. It looked really nice; for a while. Years later, it's a big mess. I have learned you just can't get durable, high quality paint in a rattle can.
Here are the engine painting methods I'm considering:
- Shade Tree Method: Buy rattle can engine paint at the local parts store. Mask and spray. See results above.
- Uncle Tony Method: Brush on a coat of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and let dry overnight. Follow by brushing on a coat of Rustoleum enamel. Let dry overnight and brush on another coat. I find this method intriguing. It looks great and, apparently, the Rustoleum enamel is very durable and looks great for years. I also hear it's easy to clean. And Rustoleum paint is downright cheap. I'm not sure if this would work with my block and intake manifold since they already have old, rattle can paint on them.
- Paint Store Method: Ask local local paint store to mix up some Ford Dark Blue enamel and spray it on with a paint gun. I have spray equipment, but sheesh, my local PPG store wants hundreds of dollars for a quart of custom mix enamel.
- Eastwood Method: Eastwood sells engine enamel in a can at $35.00 a pint. Again, it requires spray equipment, but I hear it's good quality paint. Of course, I would have to order it and wait for shipping as well as pay for shipping.
Steve Dulcich Method: Spray on a light coat of engine primer from a rattle can. Follow with two light coats of VHT rattle can engine paint. Top with two coats of automotive clear coat. Dolcich says this method looks great and lasts a long time. When I first saw him demonstrate it, I thought, "Oh, that's nice if you have spray equipment and some good clear coat lying around. But then I remembered that I do have some very nice spray equipment and do have some SPI Universal Clear left over from painting my car. This would require a lot of careful masking, but maybe it's worth it. Hmmmm....
Thoughts?
Here are the engine painting methods I'm considering:
- Shade Tree Method: Buy rattle can engine paint at the local parts store. Mask and spray. See results above.
- Uncle Tony Method: Brush on a coat of Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and let dry overnight. Follow by brushing on a coat of Rustoleum enamel. Let dry overnight and brush on another coat. I find this method intriguing. It looks great and, apparently, the Rustoleum enamel is very durable and looks great for years. I also hear it's easy to clean. And Rustoleum paint is downright cheap. I'm not sure if this would work with my block and intake manifold since they already have old, rattle can paint on them.
- Paint Store Method: Ask local local paint store to mix up some Ford Dark Blue enamel and spray it on with a paint gun. I have spray equipment, but sheesh, my local PPG store wants hundreds of dollars for a quart of custom mix enamel.
- Eastwood Method: Eastwood sells engine enamel in a can at $35.00 a pint. Again, it requires spray equipment, but I hear it's good quality paint. Of course, I would have to order it and wait for shipping as well as pay for shipping.
Steve Dulcich Method: Spray on a light coat of engine primer from a rattle can. Follow with two light coats of VHT rattle can engine paint. Top with two coats of automotive clear coat. Dolcich says this method looks great and lasts a long time. When I first saw him demonstrate it, I thought, "Oh, that's nice if you have spray equipment and some good clear coat lying around. But then I remembered that I do have some very nice spray equipment and do have some SPI Universal Clear left over from painting my car. This would require a lot of careful masking, but maybe it's worth it. Hmmmm....
Thoughts?
