Does the fuel system include a return line?

 

Every EFI retrofit fuel pump instruction manual I've read states that the pump must be mounted as low as possible, at or below the lowest level of the tank.

 

Yes, it has a return line. It is not like it is mounted super high. I did just find a fitech bulletin that says to mount the pump as low as the lowest point of the fuel tank. So I guess that is a definitive answer.

 

You might want to look into eventually going with an in tank pump. It's quieter and liquid cooled. Keep the return though as it is also part of the cooling/ no vapor lock equation.

 

The in-line pump is replacing the I tank that can’t keep up and falls on its face. It is supposed to be a Walbro, but I suspect it is a phony Walbro, maybe it’s a Waldo. Anyway when it failed to live up to expectations I put in the inline.

 

When I did the initial install of the Sniper on my 200 6cyl I used the supplied pump in the kit & had vapor lock problems due to the lines absorbing so much heat off the transverse mounted muffler. Finally put a holley in tank efi pump in & done.

It's nearly impossible to mount the external pump low enough to be gravity fed, but there is a little more room in front of the tank with out that muffler hogging up room. But after haveing both type pumps on my car the holley intank wins hands down all round.

 

When I put the inline it was easier to connect the inlet to the factory inlet. This was brand new repopulate when we replaced the tank. It turns out the the lowest point it could possibly pick up from was about an inch and a quarter from the bottom of the tank because of the stupid design up the pick up filter. The other issue was that the locator tabs don’t reach the notches in the tank, and it was turned a quarter turn clockwise, so when I said it felt like it was running out of fuel it actually was even with half a tank.
Is there a decent pickup made anywhere? Everything about this feels second rate. Too thin of metal on everything. Even the disk everything is mounted to seems too small.

 

Okay, fuel pump is at the bottom of the tank, fuel pick up is at the bottom of the tank. Still no joy. It starts great and runs good for about 2 miles, then it runs out of gas. Tank vent verified, all lines blown out, pressure just drops off. I am just about ready to kick fitech to the curb.

 

I pulled off the filter in the engine bay just to check then I was going to mount my pressure gauge pre filter. It was bone dry in there. I mean not a drop of liquid fuel. That explains why it won’t keep pressure or ru, no idea how to get around that degree of vapor lock. The lines are SS under the car, and then rubber in the engine bay. It doesn’t run next to the exhaust. I am about at the end of my wits with this thing.

 

After reading your last 2 post the symptoms & distance you are getting are exactly what happened when I installed the Sniper. Why don't you try running it at home until it quits then use a laser thermometer on the fuel lines to find that hot spot , I was able to find mine by feeling of the lines by hand. By the 3rd Holley supplied in line pump I had installed a glowshift electronic fuel pressure gauge in the car that connected at the sniper. Went for a trial run & as I was backing up the drive I seen the pressure gauge start acting erattic at the exact time the engine started to stumble & died.

That's when I found the rubber lines that were sucking up heat into the liquid gas causeing it to vaporize in the lines.

Sometimes it the little things that can cause a lot of frustration especially after spending a chunk of money on a brand new bang up something. Hope you find the problem before you make a rash decision & burn it to the ground.

 

In tank pump.

 

Just buy yourself a Holley in tank pump. It comes with a Hydra matt on the pickup & supposedly it can't starve for fuel as long as the matt is in contact with gas ,the literature says in contact with not submerged under.

Mine holds 60 psi all day long

 

I agree with the Holley in tank pump. I believe it's part number 12-305. No need for a return line as anything over 58 psi get shunted internally back to the tank. I've been running one with the fitech for 3 years now with zero problems.

Run a dedicated wire straight from the battery to a relay in the trunk, wire in an inertia switch for safety and run from the inertia switch to the pump and it should work fine.

 

Also if you do use walbro pumps you have to disable the pwm feature on the FiTech. They don't do well with pwm.

 

The FiTech PWM fuel pump signal fried the Tanks Inc GPA-4 fuel pump I bought. After struggling with it for a few months with similar issues to what you are having, the pump finally got loud and died. I worked through Summit Racing Tech service as I had bought tank, pump, and FiTech from them. They confirmed via FiTech that the Tanks Inc pump was incompatible with the FiTech PWM signal leading to its failure. As they had recommended it they gave me full credit on the return. I bought the FiTech pump and problem solved. This was in early 2018. Im a big fan of Summit for their service and support.