Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Front calipers sticking after brake rebuild...

3.4K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  PetesPonies  
#1 ·
Hey guys. Some of you have been helping me along with improving my braking performance and I appreciate all the help so far. Unfortunately, I am having some issues. I will start with telling you what I have done so far:

Brake fluid change spring 2015
New front calipers spring of 2015
New Hawk HPS pads spring 2015

All of the following new this February:
New front brake hoses
New Napa master cylinder MC36440 equivalent (Napa MC2165)
New Wilwood prop. valve 12" from MC
New 10# residual valve after prop. valve

New porterfield R4S shoes in rear
New Napa drums in rear
All new springs and wheel cylinders for rear drums

I bled everything out twice and drove the car, upon parking in the garage I notice two fittings were dripping so I tightened everything up a little more, re-bled the system and drove the car again tonight. I was very please with the braking performance. I can lock up the rears for the first time ever! I was planning on adjusting the prop. valve but when I pulled in the garage it felt like something was dragging. I was able to place both hands on the rear drums with no problem, they were warm but not hot.

I then touched the front calipers and they pretty much burned my fingers...

I have been reading online for a solution and it seems like a collapsed hose is a possibility though I doubt it since my hoses are brand new.

Another possibility sounds like the MC push rod is too long. I did use the one that came with the new MC because I wanted to use the version with the retaining clip. Unfortunately, I am thinking this could be my issue...its pretty much the worst thing to re-do. Is there any way to confirm this? Also, when I pulled in the garage my brake light was stuck on slightly, when I pulled the brake pedal back it released. I pushed the pedal a couple more times and it never stuck on again.

A bad master also sounds like a possibility but again, mine is brand new.

After the car sat for about an hour, the front wheels spun as normal, didn't seem to be sticking...calipers were slightly warm not hot.

Where do I start troubleshooting?
 
G
#3 ·
Well just a bit of background. What releases the front calipers are the seals. The seal distorts when the piston is pushed outward and then when pressure is releases, the seal returns to it's original shape. This is the seal memory. The actual movement of the piston is very, very small. When the pads wear, the piston is able to move slightly farther and piston will break the lock the seal has on the piston. So . . assuming all your parts are good and functioning as they should . . and considering your brake light issue as well . . I think you know where the issue probably is :(
 
#4 ·
There was around 1/4" inch difference in the push rod length (new one was longer). I was advised by some of you to use the original push rod but I went against this to use the rod with the retaining clip for safety reasons.

Is there really a possibility of the push rod falling out without this clip? My car was on the road for 20 years without the clip in push rod and there was never an issue that I know of.

Pete: are you saying I damaged a seal in the MC or are you saying you also think my problem is the 1/4" longer push rod?

If I don't need the retaining clip can I grind off the end of the rod to shorten it? I had to trade in the OE push rod with my old MC core...seems really stupid now, maybe they still have the core and push rod the store.
 
#5 ·
IF the stop is still on the brake pedal assembly....the rod is no gonna"fall out" because the pedal will keep it in place. Plus the old rod will sorta snap in place on the new MC. IF your pedal has the stop removed it COULD swing up enough to "maybe" let the rod fall out.
RUN to the auto parts store and get your old rod back. They won't care.
6sally6
 
#6 ·
Take your existing pushrod, cut about 1/2-3/4" out of the middle, thread the cut ends and use a coupler and 2 jam nuts to join the pieces back together. Adjust to the proper length then install.
 
#9 ·
Thanks for the advice guys. I have pulled the MC and am attempting to make the push rod into an adjustable one. If this doesn't work does anyone know what version of adjustable push rod I should order? I am just concerned since I have a '65 FB with a MC36440.

I called Napa and my core was picked up Monday morning, my old push rod is gone...
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the offer, I appreciate that. I will try and convert mine into an adjustable one and if I fail I might take you up on that...
 
#12 ·
After my front suspension rebuild I noticed my front brakes dragging. Couldn't figure it out for anything. For awhile anyway. Eventually figured out I just tightened the 2 caliber bolts too much. After a quick adjustment, all was good.
 
#13 ·
So you're worried about safety and used an incorrect pushrod. And now you want to "convert" the incorrect pushrod. I would get the correct one and try it. And then get on the floor of the car and use your hands and try every possible method to pull that pushrod out of place. If you can't, it's safe.
 
#14 ·
Hey guys, I just wanted to give you an update on my issues. I was able to cut the push rod, cut threads into it and make it into an adjustable push rod. I measured it before I cut it, put everything together and made sure the new adjustable rod was about 1/4" shorter, bolted everything back up and drove the car tonight...no brake light issues or sticking front calipers! Still need to do a little adjusting on the proportioning valve but everything seems to be working well.

Thanks for your input!