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Fuel gauge issues

891 views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  HarryZ  
#1 ·
Aloha. I'm having an issue with my fuel gauge on my '68. This is a new fuel gauge I bought from NPD. The gauge does read full when I ground the wire going from the sender to the gauge, so I know that the gauge works. However, there is no needle movement when turning the key to 'on' when the tank is almost empty. I filled up the tank after trying this, and put in 14 gallons, so there was about 2 gallons left in the tank.

I know from reading the VMF for many years that there is an adjustment on the back of the gauge that "should" let me correct this. However, on a '68 you have to disassemble the instrument panel and remove the gauge from it's holder to access the adjustment gear. I was thinking I will need to remove the fuel gauge and the constant voltage regulator and then set them up on my workbench along with a battery and potentiometer to see if / when the needle changes after an adjustment. Is there an easier / better way? (I always seem to think of the hard way to do things...).

I also have a concern about the wiring between the sender and the back of the gauge. At the sender, I had a measurement of 58.3 ohms from the sender "stud" to ground. At the connector near the instrument panel, the reading was 62.3 ohms between the fuel level sender wire and ground. So, a 4 ohm increase in resistance. Is this normal? Both ends of the wire looked physically OK. Is there another connector someplace in the wire between the sender and where the instrument panel connector is?

Mahalo, Harry Z
 
#5 ·
I've tried to adjust a gauge using a variable power supply and discrete resistors- while on the bench, and it is difficult to say the least. I managed to get it back to the factory setting after much fiddling around. If you are convinced its the gauge, I would send it to Rocketman or some other service for calibration.
However, I suspect its the sender. I have the advantage of being the original owner of my car, so I know what is factory and what is not. I just recently restored my original 69 sender and found that from the factory the float is about 1/2" off the bottom with a dry tank and with not quite a gallon (7 pints) the float begins to move up and starts to reduce the resistance. Here is the resistance vrs. gallons curve for a stock sender:
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#6 ·
So, a 4 ohm increase in resistance.
Not good. The wire between the gauge and sender should have about a 0.1-0.2 Ohm resistance MAX. Also check resistance between the fuel tank and ground. What is the state of your engine-to-firewall ground strap? 58.3 Ohms at the sender should result in a gauge reading of around....

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#7 ·
Aloha @Mach1 Driver. Thanx for the info. But, I do not think the issue is with the sender. When I tested this, the resistance at the sender was 58.3 ohms. According to @Woodchuck's fuel gauge resistance chart, that is somewhere between 1/4 and empty. It took 14 gallons to fill the 16 gallon tank, so there was ~ 2 gallons in the tank, which corresponds to ~ 1/8 tank. The needle should be indicating 1/8 tank, but it does not move from power off position. The sender is doing it's job, the gauge is not. Here's Woodchuck's chart:

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Aloha @Woodchuck. Yes, that's what I'm hoping my gauge will indicate when down to 2 gallons!

I'll check the fuel tank to ground reading soon. The engine to firewall strap is new, installed last year, bought it from NPD. I put a star washer in between the eyelet and the firewall to ensure good contact. On my '65 I think there was a separate ground wire from the instrument panel to a support strut under the dash, but it's been about 30 years since I was under that dash so I could be mis-remembering. Nothing like that on my '68, and I don't see anyplace where one might have been. Is the '68 instrument panel only grounded through the wiring connectors?

Also, 4 ohms is really kind of strange to me. If the wire was damaged someplace between the sender and the gauge, I could easily believe a few k ohms. But 4 seems strange. I'll spray from DeOxit in the connector by the dash just in case it's corrosion (I live near the ocean so anything / everything corrodes). Other than running a new wire from the sender to the dash, any other suggestions?

Mahalo, Harry Z