Vintage Mustang Forums banner

Halotron fire extinguisher

4.5K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  FTWingRiders  
#1 ·
Soon I'll attempt to start my engine. Not tomorrow or next week soon but soon enough that I'm now considering which fire extinguisher to get
I originally planned on a h3r extinguisher but then I saw Amerex also has halotron extinguishers and for less.
I have a normal chemical powder extinguisher but I would hate to use that on my black engine bay or black interior.
Also, the halotron extinguishers are refillable right? I'm not seeing any places to refill them at in case I use it....

Any suggestions on these or other brands?
 
#2 ·
#4 ·
I think I'm going to get an Element and add it to the chemical extinguisher I always carry. Use the Element first and the chemical as a backup.
 
#11 ·
I think I'm going to get an Element and add it to the chemical extinguisher I always carry. Use the Element first and the chemical as a backup.
That's what I have, as I will use the Element, but bystanders won't have the slightest idea what to do with one. ;) So the regular one is there for them and backup. The Elements are like double the price of a couple years ago, but what isn't, I guess. They work long enough to put out 4 or 5 engine fires before they are expended, so get your buddies together to light theirs on fire also, and you can put them all out at the same time. 🤪 Seriously, I don't know why firefighters don't throw these in the windows of burning buildings...🤔 Anyone know?
 
#12 ·
Halotron on Amazon is $234 2.5# last 9 seconds. Rated upto 120 degrees. So that won’t work inside the car on hot summer days.
the element was 100 seconds for$119. No mention about temperature. Just saying
First I've heard of Halotron not working above 120 degrees. The price definitely went up since I bought this one.
 
#17 ·
They may work best within a confined space like an engine compartment, under dash or passenger compartment.
I mean, where else in a car would you use it? lol
 
#22 · (Edited)
I have a Halon extinguisher in my Mustang currently. I picked it up years ago from a local extinguisher company. If I need to replace it, I'm going to replace it with a Halotron extinguisher. After all the money and time I've spent on my car, a few hundred dollars for a good extinguisher is nothing.

As far as the Element extinguishers, they appear good from their marketing. But I've seen a couple of videos that left me questioning how effective they really are. One of the videos was of a rock climbing jeep with a fire around the transmission and an element extinguisher was deployed. The extinguisher didn't seem to work as well as advertised. You never saw it totally extinguish the fire.
 
#24 ·
I have a Halon extinguisher in my Mustang currently. I picked it up years ago from a local extinguisher company. If I need to replace it, I'm going to replace it with a Halotran extinguisher. After all the money and time I've spent on my car, a few hundred dollars for a good extinguisher is nothing.

As far as the Element extinguishers, they appear good from their marketing. But I've seen a couple of videos that left me questioning how effective they really are. One of the videos was of a rock climbing jeep with a fire around the transmission and an element extinguisher was deployed. The extinguisher didn't seem to work as well as advertised. You never saw it totally extinguish the fire.
This is how I also feel. What's a few hundred compared to 40k+
 
#25 ·
I did a similar test (when they were $60), but shot it quickly without letting it burn long. Worked great. The Element is said to combine with free oxygen, suffocating the fire, but it has to be over all the fire to work. There is no residual effect like liquids or powders. It's the same issue with any gaseous extinguisher, like CO2. I've used those, and it appears to act similarly. If the fire has burned enough to heat stuff to auto-ignition temperature, it cant work if O2 can get back to a part of it, else it has to smother everything until it's cool enough not to reignite. :cautious: This is why I asked the question of throwing them in a burning building, as that could confine the effects longer and perhaps be effective?

My current take on this (not having tested further) is if I get a fire, I hit it immediately before it gets big or stuff glows red. If I came across a burning car, the Element is likely not useful, though I might try to hit the engine compartment or throw it in a burning interior. Else, it's up to the traditional backup extinguisher or insurance. :rolleyes: I need more unbiased info.
 
#28 ·
That's something else I notice about most of the demos of fire extinguisher demos, they don't let them get hot. When stuff is really hot and you go to put it out, you might knock the flames down for a second or two, but the fire reignites when the burning material or surrounding metal is really hot. I did find a demo of Halotron extinguisher where they let the fire burn for seven minutes before they knocked it down. The extinguisher did the job without a re-ignition.
 
#26 ·
So from what I gathered, the element extinguishers are good for weak to mild fires. Anything bigger falls on a actual extinguisher.
I'm considering a element extinguisher for interior wiring fires or something small and a halotron for everything else.
To be honest I haven't looked around where I live for clean agent fire extinguishers. I guess I know what I'm doing next
 
#27 ·
See my below from another thread recently.

Additionally, as an addendum to the below, AFFF (not a clean agent) and NOVEC-1230 (or generically FK-5-1-12) have also recently come under some additional ire due to their chemical constructions containing PFAS (or "forever chemicals" is the buzzword). As I stated in the below, the company I work for is very involved in the "Traditional Fire" industry and I've had the chance to talk with some of our guys on these changes. Without getting too much into it, they're expecting that these should be available for purchase over the next 10-15 years and then after that there probably will be a good used/recycled market for NOVEC that will support the industry, much like how "halon" is handled now. For the common consumer market the impact will also be significantly less vs DoD and DoE related installations that likely may not be able to use FK-5-1-12 that's produced overseas.

Additionally in the future, there's a high certainty that a new clean agent will be produced and manufactures will have the ability to either a) re-certify their existing systems/bottles/handhelds with the new agent or b)have a path forward for refilling existing NOVEC installations.

Having had to go and clean up one recently...yeah. they're not fun. For anyone else that needs the information, look up the active ingredient on the extinguisher if you need to discharge one. Mine was an "Monoammonium phosphate" type, so I had to make a baking soda mixture and get it everywhere possible, scrub, rinse, etc. I'm still apprehensive that i got everything but it is what it is. For this reason I've got a couple element's on the wall, one in each car. I've also got a "backup" traditional dry-agent extinguisher that sits next to the element sticks on the wall in the garage in the event something happens that isn't being contained by the element.

Additionally, remember that there are a few non-corrosive agents out there as well. The industry word for these are "clean agent" extinguishers and they're typically used in aircraft, server rooms, and other locations that are high-consequence for corrosive chemicals.
  • As Z mentioned, CO2 is an option
  • "HalGuard" produced by H3r - available in smaller handhelds
  • "Novec1230" produced by 3M - LifeLine makes a portable, otherwise this is typically in plumbed systems
  • "CleanGuard" produced by Ansul - available in handhelds
  • "FE-36" produced by Dupont - typically in plumbed systems
I think there's another 1-2 out there as well but these are the common ones. Keep in mind they're going to be significantly more expensive than the "traditional dry chemical" extinguisher but they're an option. Typically a 2.5# for each of these is going to be around $180-$300. That was the reason i went with the element + dry chem in the garage. I've heard lots of good things about element and motorsports folks seem to use them regularly-ish with success so long as the combustible load (what's burning) isn't something you'd need a 5-10# extinguisher for anyway.

If someone's got specific questions, let me know. I work for a company that has a large traditional fire protection division and their job is extinguishers, suppression systems, detection systems, fire modeling, etc. so I can forward on any questions. That's how I found out a bunch of this anyway after my recent...experiment.