[Smooth brain]

I need some help with figuring out where i can support the driver’s side of my 65 coupe the rocker is basically gone and same with the both frame rails and the olny area that it looks like i can support the car to repair the rust on the driver’s side is the roof rail and i do not have the space, money or experience to get a floor assembly and install that and I don’t have the money to have someone else do it and getting another mustang is out of the question as well

 

[Flade]

I would weld a nice piece of square steel tube along the pinch weld under the rocker to stabilize it. Brace the car elsewhere as needed Then repair the frame rails. Once the frame rails are solid, replace the rocker, add torque boxes, then repair the floor. One piece at a time making sure to measure and keep the car straight and square.

Support points include the front lower control arm mounting point. the Front frame rails, the rear torque boxes, rear frame rail, and front frame extensions. If those are too damaged you have to get creative and create braces.

Here are some pics of how I did it, and other have done it.

 

[Smooth brain]

Thank you for the help but I don’t know if I have enough structure on the driver side to be able to brace anything the b pillar, quarter and rocker all move independently of each other

 

[Flade]

Thank you for the help but I don’t know if I have enough structure on the driver side to be able to brace anything the b pillar, quarter and rocker all move independently of each other

Then you have to build a frame under the car to tie it all together

 

[stanglocal]

Thank you for the help but I don’t know if I have enough structure on the driver side to be able to brace anything the b pillar, quarter and rocker all move independently of each other

Give us some pics of the damage under the car and we can evaluate a little better where some supports could be added to preserve the structure. If the rust and deterioration is that bad though, I wouldn't trust that it's square anymore. First thing would be to get factory measurements, then see how in/out of square the body and frame is. If it's square, then great. Otherwise, you can put together a support jig then adjust the non-supported parts piecemeal.

As my car was within a 1/8" and the rear frames were structurally sound, the first thing I did was add DIY subframe supports. This not only ties the front and rear together linearly, but gives full-side jacking/supportability.

This is very easy and cheap (~$30 in square tubing and angle iron), but if the back part of your front frame rails are eaten up too, you may have to extend the tubing from the rear torque box all the way to the front part of the frame through to the radiator support area. That way you know it will stay level.

If you're also concerned with sag, I've checked height front and back left and right while the car is sitting on its own suspension and weight, then jacked the front up a known height, and measured again. New front height - original height - raised height = total flex.

 

[Woodchuck]

If the transmission tunnel is still in place and relatively solid, weld some braces as low as possible between the a-pillar jamb and the c-pillar jamb, and I would have a "turnbuckle" in the middle of the brace to be able to shorten or lengthen it, make sure the engine and all front suspension is removed, as well as the rear axle and springs, and support the vehicle at the rear leaf spring front eye pockets and under the front lower control arm mounts. Install your structural components first (rockers, floor pan braces) and make sure your door opening brackets are adjusted to obtain the proper distance between chassis points.

Frankly, without a "frame jig" you're going to be fighting an "uphill battle" and you might want to search for someone who has just finished a project and has one for sale...

 

[Smooth brain]

That’s you for all of the help and here is what i have to work with and yes I know the rust is bad the car sat in a feild in Michigan for 20 years

 

[Smooth brain]

I was able to get some more work done on the car and here is what is left of the rear driver’s side of the car not very mutch

I

 

[Smooth brain]

Can the rear hump support the weight of the vehicle or no because mine looks almost perfect and if it was able to would it be difficult to make a brace for it without the axle in place