Just order my fpa headers for my 67 gta fastback. I really hate to pull the engine to install these if it's not necessary. From all of your experience, what is easier? From under the car with the engine tilted. Or pull the motor, bolt the headers up, then reinstall stall? Sorry if I'm beating a "dead horse with a stick" because I know it's been mentioned many times but I just want to avoid any cosmetic damage possible. Also I see some people mention having issues with installing some bolts. Is this the common issue and how is leaks prevented. 14 bolt heads by the way. Thank you in advance will attach a picture of my car.
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Rmacedo2010
Just ordered my FPA headers!
Just order my fpa headers for my 67 gta fastback. I really hate to pull the engine to install these if it's not necessary. From all of your experience, what is easier? From under the car with the engine tilted. Or pull the motor, bolt the headers up, then reinstall stall? Sorry if I'm beating a "dead horse with a stick" because I know it's been mentioned many times but I just want to avoid any cosmetic damage possible. Also I see some people mention having issues with installing some bolts. Is this the common issue and how is leaks prevented. 14 bolt heads by the way. Thank you in advance will attach a picture of my car.
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You can put them in from underneath. Jack the engine up so you can remove the motor mount on the side you are Working on. Remove the starter also When doing the passenger side.
So, what engine are you running and with factory heads?
Getting the header bolts in can be difficult due to the header tube design, themselves, and the head's plug angles. As an example, I run Tri-Ys, when I ran Windsor Jr iron lungs, I had to dimple #5 exhaust tube near the plug, when I replaced them with TW aluminums, I had ample room. Also, in the mix, is the style header bolt. I had to use 10mm hex bolts as they offer a small head.........You see, It just depends
Getting the header bolts in can be difficult due to the header tube design, themselves, and the head's plug angles. As an example, I run Tri-Ys, when I ran Windsor Jr iron lungs, I had to dimple #5 exhaust tube near the plug, when I replaced them with TW aluminums, I had ample room. Also, in the mix, is the style header bolt. I had to use 10mm hex bolts as they offer a small head.........You see, It just depends
It’s true, you won’t be able to get all the bolts in. It’s also true that you don’t need to…..I use the top/bottom bolts on the cylinders that I can, and use the horizontal bolts on the ones where the upper bolt will hit the shock tower. I’ve only ever used two bolts on each cylinder and never had a leak. Since you have a 67 and they don’t have the wraparound shock tower braces you ’may’ be able to use the vertical bolts on all. Usually the offending ones are the front and 3rd one on the passenger side and the front on the driver…..I think there is one of the front tubes in the header where you just can’t put a bolt in the hole even with the header off the car, so you have to use the vertical bolts on that one….
if you have the original heads then you will need to use the horizontal bolts on the middle two cylinder ports since there is no bottom bolt hole……also, take you valve covers off, those covers make it more difficult to get you hands in the already cramped specs….
if you have the original heads then you will need to use the horizontal bolts on the middle two cylinder ports since there is no bottom bolt hole……also, take you valve covers off, those covers make it more difficult to get you hands in the already cramped specs….
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