Last night I tackled the drips in the clear coat on the 70. I tried hand sanding with a block and 400 grit, wet. Went nowhere. Tried orbital sander with 600 grit, again, no progress within a reasonable time. Finally, I broke out the air long board sander and went at it with 320. After about an hour, I have the bottom 3/4 of the door runless and dripless. It looks like there is still clearcoat over the base!!!! Tonight I'll try to finish the sanding - 400-600-800-1200-1500-2000-2500 grits then buff and polish. There is one very small narrow spot on the lower leading edge of the door where I got down to the primer. I could touch it up with basecoat/ clear coat I suppose, but I am too tired of this part of the restoration to give it the attention. Also, I dont' want the delay. Maybe I'll address it later. After reading about 66BenchCoupe's pulling of the trans in the rain, I can't complain about working in a dry 48 degree garage!
70sportsroof
I was a little hesitant on dragging out the big old flat board sander adn 320 paper. Someday I hope to be able to paint a car without having to sand it at all - just buff and polish. The closest to that i got was painting the clear with no hardner in it. It came out like glass. Maybe it was the doubleshot of reducer that did that. Painting at 50 degrees is tuff because the paint reacts differently. On the car it initially looks like it is going to be real rough. Let it set for a minute and it starts to flow out smooth. IN warmer weather if it looks rough when laid down, it is going to stay rough. The solution is to apply thicker, wetter coat. In cold weather, a thicker wetter coat simply means runs. oh well. I wonder if this has anything to do with why JohnPro wouldn't agree to the two of us painting his 69 in his garage? hmmmm.
I find that trying to just sand runs out will more than likely cause one to sand into the base cot and still have a high spot in the clear. I myself use a new razor blade and drag it over the run, not cutting into the run. Just drag it over the run with the razor blade following behind your hand as you drag it. The longer a fresh paint sits the harder it will be to remove the runs and any sanding marks.
Umm.... Ummm... I seriously doubt that you will be able to sand and buff out the scratches you made in the clear with 320 grit paper without breaking through the clear and probably the paint as well. I foresee repainting in your future...
I can see why you had to use 320. You waited too long to sand. Clear needs to be sanded within 3 days of spraying or else it turns way too hard to sand. The best time to sand clear is 24 hours after spraying.
I've read a lot of posts on this forum about painting and I've really suprised on how much extra/unnecessary work people are doing. You don't have to do that much sanding! Proper buffing takes out any scratches/sanding marks left by 1500 grit paper, so you don't need to use 2000 and 2500 unless you are re-clear coating. Also, you should only use 600 grit on big runs. Here is the process that I use after a car has been cleared. This is the same process that is used at my brother's collision repair center:
1) Within 24 hours of clear coating, Block sand out high spots (runs/bumps/dust spots) with 1000 grit, wet. use 600 then 1000 for bad runs
2) Block Sand the entire car with 1500, wet (soapy water). or use an orbital sander with 1200 grit,dry. Stay away from sharp body lines. I use 1500 with a hard rubber sanding block
3) Wash the entire car. The juice from sanding leaves grit and will eventually harden where it is left behind making it very difficult to remove.
4) Buff with 1st stage buffing compound of choice. maquires or 3m. I use 3m Professional II
5) Wash entire car. stage 1 compound is more course than stage 2 and will leave scratches if you get any in your stage 2 buffing pad.
6) Buff using 2nd or 3rd stage buffing compound of choice using a NEW buffing pad. I use maquires.
7) Wash entire car.
8) Wax car.
Unfortunately with a bc/cc system you run the risk of sanding or buffing through the clear at any point. Once you do that you have to repaint.
I hope this saves you some work.
I can see why you had to use 320. You waited too long to sand. Clear needs to be sanded within 3 days of spraying or else it turns way too hard to sand. The best time to sand clear is 24 hours after spraying.
I've read a lot of posts on this forum about painting and I've really suprised on how much extra/unnecessary work people are doing. You don't have to do that much sanding! Proper buffing takes out any scratches/sanding marks left by 1500 grit paper, so you don't need to use 2000 and 2500 unless you are re-clear coating. Also, you should only use 600 grit on big runs. Here is the process that I use after a car has been cleared. This is the same process that is used at my brother's collision repair center:
1) Within 24 hours of clear coating, Block sand out high spots (runs/bumps/dust spots) with 1000 grit, wet. use 600 then 1000 for bad runs
2) Block Sand the entire car with 1500, wet (soapy water). or use an orbital sander with 1200 grit,dry. Stay away from sharp body lines. I use 1500 with a hard rubber sanding block
3) Wash the entire car. The juice from sanding leaves grit and will eventually harden where it is left behind making it very difficult to remove.
4) Buff with 1st stage buffing compound of choice. maquires or 3m. I use 3m Professional II
5) Wash entire car. stage 1 compound is more course than stage 2 and will leave scratches if you get any in your stage 2 buffing pad.
6) Buff using 2nd or 3rd stage buffing compound of choice using a NEW buffing pad. I use maquires.
7) Wash entire car.
8) Wax car.
Unfortunately with a bc/cc system you run the risk of sanding or buffing through the clear at any point. Once you do that you have to repaint.
I hope this saves you some work.
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