The only this is, Im not sure if its the wires because when we ORIGINALLY replaced the starter solenoid, it cranked just fine, and that was just 2 months ago and it hasnt really been started since then much. Now it just will make the solenoid make a single click (what i assume is the relay) and wont start. So can the wires even give out just like that?

 

Have you checked to make sure the battery is fully charged?

Those cables look pretty rough as well.

 

battery is brand new

 

Just one click, but it starts with a jump? Poor connection at the battery posts, bad terminals (looks like you have "temporary" terminal ends), bad connection at engine ground or bad battery.

 

the start solenoid is only supposed to make on click i thought since its just a big relay. also the battery is brand new and what do you mean i have temporary terminal ends?

 

Looks like you need a new battery.

 

Typical corrosion problem at connections! Buy some NEW cables and lightly sand mounting points! Wes

 

if thats the case, then why did it start fine when we had originally replaced the starter solenoid 2 months ago?

 

I agree with all above. The cables are garbage regardless. You could take the battery to NAPA and have them test the battery if you lack a VOM. ( Oreilly and Autozone) can test too. There is a lot of corrosion and I have seen the wire strands actually break off in the cable insulation. Use your cell and take pictures of where everything goes and make a trip to the local NAPA with your cables and battery in hand. Match them for length and terminal size and have them test your battery.
Now if you know the battery is good sometimes tapping on the starter will get the starter to turn over. If that is the case the starter needs replaced too.

 

do i just smack the starter with a hammer? also what position does my key need to be in?

 

I bought a new "cheap" battery at Autozone about a year ago. I am guessing I left the lights on by mistake with the battery only being 9 months old. After I went out to start it - no dice, and I could not get the battery to hold a charge, and the "cheap" battery only had a 90 day warranty. Lesson learned - don't buy a cheap battery.

 

Is you car an automatic? I may be way off but the first thing that popped in my mind was neutral safety switch.

Also make sure that new battery is charged.

 

Is you car an automatic? I may be way off but the first thing that popped in my mind was neutral safety switch.

Also make sure that new battery is charged.

its a manual, and the issue was happening with 2 different batteries, i doubt it a battery issue

 

Regardless of what the issue of the no start is, the wires need to be changed, they are bad and will create starting issues. Now, can you jump the starter solenoid and have the engine start?

 

yes, if you explain how to do it, and do it safely

 

Look at this video:

 

Also check this video out:

 

that helps a lot, but that second video confused me because my car came with that starter solenoid (obviously)

 

I’m not sure why he’s fighting replacing the cables. It’s not expensive and it’s needs to be done regardless.

Chris

 

Im not fighting it, i said i was doing it today and am going to leave to buy cables here in a bit, i just want to make sure thats the source of the issue

 

Let's do a few diagnostics first. By the looks of your posts you're jumping from big post to big post to get it started. So, while your cables are sketchy, they are working. Do you own a 12 volt test light? See if you're getting power to the S terminal (left small post with the ring term crimped on) if you are then it's your solenoid.

 

but i just replaced the solenoid yesterday

 

Start by replacing your 2 battery cables. Clean the negative cable connection to block mounting point. Replace the soliond to starter cable & use that wire brush to clean the starter connection bolt. While your replacing put new block to chassis ground cables on.

If the battery & starter are good it should start. You said you work at o'rileys so you should pick yourself up a meter to use for checking electrical problems on your car with, & learn how to use it . You are going to get good at useing it before its over. All of the items named above are money well spent on your car .

Those battery cables play one of the most important roles in your cars cranking as well as the chargeing system putting power into the battery along with keeping power supplied to all of the electrical system in the whole car.

Broken,frayed or naked ( as in missing insulation ) wires are one of the best ways to burn that baby up or at the least burn up the wireing..

 

which is the block to chassis ground?

 

I am going to bet you are not getting the proper ground. When you jump it that helps you ground the connection

 

Please explain to me how jumping a hot wire helps to complete a ground connection.

 

I have found cheap and actually good generic cables at Walmart battery centers.
As far as why suddenly.
This tends to be how electrical problems are.
Often the wires will break internally my just wiggling around, or something finally burns out.
Usually there is no warning.
What people are advising is true in all cases.
Isolate each item and test.
Another thing to consider is voltage vs amps.
A wire might be able to show voltage but fail when asked to carry the amps to do the job.

We hear the frustration.
Hang tough, most of us have been there.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

OK, you say you work at O'Reilly. Quit buying that cheap MasterPro electrical junk as it is garbage. Only buy the Standard brand when it comes to electrical parts.
And while your car sat for 2 months the battery died or the connections corroded. Remove the battery and take it to work with you and hook it up to the charger/tester. Then buy one of those battery cleaning tools that has an internal and external wire brush. Clean the outside of the battery posts and the insides of the battery cable clamps. And replace all of your battery cables and the cable to the starter. Yours appear to be in terrible condition.

 

Ok so i just jumped tried to cross post 2 with post 1 like that video the other guy posted said. It still just clicked. the guy who has been helping me, when he dropped it off he said the way he started it was from crossing post 1 and 4. this is a BRAND new start solenoid that i replaced yesterday. so whats the issue?

 

Listen to Alan. (awhtx). Do what he says. Your car will start. then you can ask about the next thing to fix. The car is 50 years old, and everything will need replacing.

 

unless it’s standard products, you cannot depend on them they can be bad out of the box, or die in a few minutes, hours, or days. Upgrade solenoid.

 

I agree with Coupster. I had a solenoid problem on my 69 coupe. I took the one off dad's 70 F150 pickup and the car would start, so I knew that was my problem. I went to O'Reilly (this has been years ago, so not a slam on them) and got a replacement solenoid and brought it home and it didn't work. Took the one off dad's truck and the car started right up, so I knew it still had to be the solenoid. I took the "brand new" one back to O'Reilly's and they weren't happy with me but I told them the one off the truck works, so I know the one they sold me doesn't. They switched it out for a new one, I took it home and installed it and the car fired right up.
Lesson learned, electrical gremlins are a bitch. And new parts aren't always perfect. Hope this helps.

 

From engine block to ground on battery

 

Engine ground.... This may take many forms, so do not worry about if it is in one place or another. What you are after is ensuring the engine block is the same electrically as the chassis of the car. Often this is a braided cable bolted somewhere on the engine running to the chassis somewhere, like the firewall. It is often left off when an engine swap is done and this can cause all sorts of strangeness.
Remember the motor mounts are rubber... so something else has to do the electrical connection.
Your car looks to have been fixed by common but non-stock methods several times, this is fine, but it means we will be discussing concepts and their execution vs. exactly where something should go.
I was looking at your picts, and.... where the positive terminal is connected to the positive cable.... Those kind of connectors are "repair" connectors and are known for corroding under the plate where you can not see it, and breaking the wires right at the insulation. Battery ends are also prone to twisting...
Try taking that apart and checking all is OK.
Also it looks like it may have twisted and started breaking at the solenoid too.

As far as part quality.
100% agree how hard it is to get good replacement parts... Usually they are made by the cheapest chinese bidder to look ok, but they do not care if it works.
I have gotten where I will only buy electrical components from West Coast Cougar, because they actually use their parts so will only carry things that work.
(other than cables which usually come from walmart as earlier mentioned.)

 

AS MENTIONED, REPLACE THE CABLES AND CHARGE THE BATTERY!

 

Jumping 1-4 is bypassing your bad solenoid. What brand is it? Was it the cheapest in price? Your cables are still crap. And yes charge battery. I know you want to know the “why” about this issue. Fix it doing as advised and you will know the “why” without needing to ask. Cleaning battery terminals, grounds and connections was some of the first things I learned about cars when younger than you. You aren’t throwing away money, you are fixing and updating your car. It’s needed if you plan to continue to use and drive the car.

 

i bought a master pro start selonoid

 

Everyone has given some great advice. There are a few things I would check first. You reference that someone else is telling you that if you connect the starter cable and the positive battery cable together that the car starts. This to me mans that we can rule out a bad engine to body ground, or those two cables. Keep in mind I 100% agree that you should change these cables asap just for piece of mind. But I’m not sure if they are your problem. You need to verify for your self that the car starts when these cables are connected.
A better test would be to have someone sit in the car with their foot on the brake, parking brake pulled, and in neutral. You can then take a screwdriver and connect the positive positive post on the starter solenoid where the battery cable is going with the post that has the replacement wire connector. With the key in the off position the starter should work. With the key in the run position the car should start even when you remove the screwdriver. This will test the ignition switch and the related wiring. Bottom line you should always confirm for yourself what others tell you. Just because they say that the car will start when the wires are connected as you stated doesn’t mean its true.

If the starter doesn’t run with the screwdriver test mentioned above then then its most likely the ignition switch or ignition wiring. Note in your other post you changed the ignition key cylinder. Did you happen to unplug or bump the ignition switch wiring?

 

Your bet bet is to do these easy & relatively cheap fixs to the electrical system & charge the battery fully. Then your car will most likely start & run . Otherwise you are just beating you head againt a wall & after a while it hurts.

I just went thru all this about a month ago on a car I have been trying to start while useing the parts on it . & after getting it to the its only clicking point as much as I did not want to I had to replace the starter. Then guess what its cranking over, but no it will not start because after the long years it set all the lifters have leaked down. But it wants to.

And all this after working on the ignition system to get it fireing. So just fix those electrical junk parts & be done with that part so you can move on to the next I have a problem because you will.