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Replacing a lifter?

3.6K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  NEFaurora  
#1 ·
Here's my story:

After 700 miles on a rebuild 289 engine one of my hydraulic lifters went bad. Today I removed the intake and discovered that the lifter was frozen in the down position. I want to replace it with a new one but besides oiling it, do I need to perform a "break in" procedure like a new cam?
 
#2 ·
Been there...Done that...many times......Ok...Here's what you do... Original lifters were CLEVITE brand which are still around if you want them from FEDERAL MOGUL...but you can go one better... Pick up a set of COMP CAMS Hydrolic lifters from JEGS or SUMMIT... They are one of the best lifters made..in my opinion.. You will never need lifters ever again.. To install....Very simple... Just rub some new cam lube on the bottom of each lifter for break-in purposes... You don't even need to mess with the cam... Job done.... While you're there...Check all of your valves while you are there too... You'l have thousand and thousands of miles of noise-free driving....:thumbsup:

Tony Kovar
1966 Sprint 200 Convertible
MCA#70001
 
#3 ·
PS: If you have to replace one.....You might as well do them all....The others are probably not far behind...

Tony Kovar
1966 Sprint 200 Convertible
MCA#70001
 
#4 ·
Well the lifter is out look at the cam lobe, if your lifter got chewed up i bet your cam did too. Also drain your oil and check for metal particles. im in the same boat but mine was caused by over reving 7000 rpms. chewed up 2 lifters and 2 cam lobes and found metal in the oil. the rest of the motor still looks good.

anyway good look let us know what else you find.
 
#5 ·
The engine has a new cam and lifters with only 700 miles on it. I checked the cam lobe with a dial indicator, nothing wrong! I see no wear marks on the lifter. The only thing that's wrong is a frozen plunger.
 
#6 ·
sounds like a collapsed lifter,probably ran dry..at only 700 miles you can probably get away with replacing just one, I would take the new lifter and immerse it in oil, try pushing it up and down this will allow oil to fill it before you install. Also put a little cam lube on the bottom. You should be good to go. Don't forget to check the pushrod and make sure oil flows through it and it is not plugged.
 
#7 ·
In that case, Just replace the one lifter.....Inject it with some oil...and put it in...It should solve the problem...


Tony Kovar
1966 Sprint 200 Convertible
MCA#70001
 
#8 ·
Yes as long as the lifter is getting oil through the pushrod you should be fine, hell if I would replace all the lifters with only 700 miles on them. No breakin is required, except when replacing a cam.
 
#9 ·
One thing you may also want to consider with new lifters is pre-oiling your engine by removing the distributer and spinning the oil pump. Then when you see the oil filling the rocker arm you'll know for sure that the new lifter is filled with oil and is getting oil. Most autoparts stores should have the tool for that. The 289 will take the 1/4" hex. You will need a 1/2" drive drill for that. Those oil pumps take alot of torque. I tried my 3/8" drill first and had smoke pouring out of the poor old Craftsman.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for the tips guys! I going to pre-oil the engine before I start it, just like I did when I started the engine for the first time. And yes you need a lot of torque to drive the oil pump!!
Here a picture of the old and new lifter:

Image
 
#11 ·
I suggest taking the old lifter apart within a bowl (so parts don't go everywhere) to see what happened to it... It must be defective with such little milage.. The lifter comes apart really easy, Just get a pair of tweezers and squeeze the exposed spring rods that you see on the top together, and pull out the retaining spring... Then the lifter easily comes apart.. Do a post-mortem, and let us know what happened.

Tony Kovar
1966 Sprint 200 Convertible
MCA#70001