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Starter problems (possibly not disengaging from the flywheel)

5.7K views 10 replies 7 participants last post by  COBRA5LADDICT  
#1 ·
Hello everyone I have recently bought a 1970 302 project mustang. It seems to be almost rust free and in good shape but struggles to run. When I first got the car it did not run at all but it did turn over. After changing the battery I realized my starter is most likely shot since it was making an awful nose when trying to start the car. Before rushing to change the starter I replaced the solenoid, with no luck i then changed out the starter. Once I did this the car started up but still made a slight grinding nose near the starter also it didn’t seem to want to reave up, this also could have been since I only ran it for a short time and it hasn’t started for years. I checked to make sure the teeth on both the starter and flywheel weren’t chewed up and they both look good. I now believe that my starter is not disengaging since this would make sense for why it’s making a noise and not reaving up (since starter gear is holding back flywheel). but With this being said I am not 100% this is the issue and I don’t know on how to go about testing this or what would cause it to not disengage (possibly a faulty wire on the solenoid). If anyone has some tips please let me know.
 
#3 ·
Did you, by any chance, install a "late-model" PMGR starter and use a jumper cable between the big lug and small terminal on the starter? If you did install a PMGR, how did you wire it?

The starter won't be causing the engine to not "rev up". If anything, the engine will "rev" and spin the starter drive so fast it will trash it, then engine being so much more powerful than the starter motor.
 
#4 ·
If the starter was not dis-engaging and U ran the engine for any period of time, the starter bearings would overheat & seize up and the engine would not start at all. It would run until U shut it off, then the melted bearings would cool and weld themselves solid. You would wonder if the engine itself was locked up, that's how mine got.
As they say, ask me how I know this!

BTW, those earlier (thru the 1960s) Ford engines utilized at least 2 different length starters. The length difference is all in the part of the starter that goes inside the bellhousing. The "snout" part of the starter is 1/2 inch longer on the longer version, giving the engagement gear a little longer reach. So, when replacing early Ford starters, check that the over-all length is the same. The short-snout might work temporarily, but WILL NOT fully engage the flywheel and the result is the chewing off of the front edge of all the flywheel teeth.
NOTE, This will NOT ruin the flywheel. There will still be enough of the teeth left so you can get it to work with a longer length starter.

Again, ask me how I know this! 😎
 
#8 ·
Hey there, I recently was able to get my 67 Mustang 289 to finally crank (Woodchuck you've been a part of my other discussions on no-crank), but the car still won't quite start (working on fuel issue now). Anyway as it cranks (if we put fuel directly into the carb), it turns over for a second or two then dies but the starter is still winding down. I don't know if this is normal or if the starter is staying engaged. It was suggested by a knowledgable friend of mine that starter drive may not be disengaging from the flywheel and to replace that part.

The starter was recently tested at an autoparts store and checks out ok and the solenoid is new.

Any thoughts?
 
#10 ·
Hey there, I recently was able to get my 67 Mustang 289 to finally crank (Woodchuck you've been a part of my other discussions on no-crank), but the car still won't quite start (working on fuel issue now). Anyway as it cranks (if we put fuel directly into the carb), it turns over for a second or two then dies but the starter is still winding down. I don't know if this is normal or if the starter is staying engaged. It was suggested by a knowledgable friend of mine that starter drive may not be disengaging from the flywheel and to replace that part.

The starter was recently tested at an autoparts store and checks out ok and the solenoid is new.

Any thoughts?
If the engine cranks over a couple revolutions and then the starter sort of goes "spuwheeeeeeeeee" but the starter "tests good" then what I'd probably do is pull the starter, tear it down for inspection, clean it, lubricate the places that require lubrication and reinstall it. If anything that would sound like the drive kicking out early, not remaining engaged. When it stays engaged and the flywheel starts to spin the starter into warp speed it's quite a noticeable noise. That only happens when the one-way clutch in the drive has locked up, too.
 
#11 ·
Automatic trans or manual? Inspect the dust plate between the flywheel or flex plate and the block for interference. Do you know why the vehicle was parked? Perhaps it was parked because of the noise. I recently had issues with 2 rebuilt torque converters in my 66v8 with a C4. Grinding sound at the flywheel area that I swore was converter nuts rubbing on the dust / block plate. Used a bore scope to confirm clearance and promptly replaced the torque converter and sound is gone.

you can also possible pull the inspection plate from the bottom of the block plate and watch the starter engage / disengage with someone else working the key. Obviously the car needs raised with ample stands or support since you will be underneath.