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The Coupe!

68K views 236 replies 53 participants last post by  bwkelley76  
#1 ·
As some of you know since I sold the Shelby I have a new little toy. I bought a nice little '67 coupe to romp around in and have some fun with.

Here is a BEFORE PIC for you all..


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PROGRESS SO FAR...

The paint is peeling in places so I've decided to get her painted. Color is TO Be Determined. ...just a cheapy paint job this time, nothing special.

While I'm waiting for the body shop to have an opening for me in the next week or so I've been working on the suspension and gathering a few parts.

Front suspension is all rebuilt now with Drake uppers and lowers, Grab-atrack lowering springs installed front and rear, roller spring perches, shelby-drop, BIG front sway bar, Billstein "BLACK" racing shocks, T5 transmission and Modern Driveline hydro clutch setup, as well as 4 17" TOYO RA1 Race tires and black FFR wheels.

I'll soon be installing a set of 4-wheel Wilwood 12.1" brakes, Golbal West subframe connectors and a Maier Racing rear panhard bar setup, as well as a narrowed 9" truck housing and 4:11 posi, micropolished gears. I have also purchased a complete factory 5.0 EFI system with Edelbrock upper and lower (truck style runners), with 24lb injectors, C&L MAF, A9L computer, and an E-cam with 1.7 rockers, and a set of ported E7 heads.

This one is FUNCTION OVER FORM for sure
 
#2 ·
Sounds like a nice build!
 
#3 ·
I think I would skip on the C&L, I've tried several of them and not one worked as it should. A ProM, or whatever they are calling themselves now days is a much better unit.
 
#6 ·
Just installed headers, 3" exhaust with x-pipe, single chamber flows, and since I have not yet configured the entire rear suspension, I've installed dumps for now. Once I get the rear all dialed in and sway-bar mounted I will configure the back-half of the exhaust. The entire exhaust including used Hooker Competition headers cost me $110 and my time. Made with lightly used pipe left over from another car as well as the mufflers, and the X-pipe is new. Working on a budget here and doing well!

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#8 ·
Seems like a great part. Definitely good quality. I haven't really tested it in the corners yet. Install is SUPER EASY is if you can weld. I have it at the "lowest" setting and I noticed better control of the rear, yet it has a lot of roll still. I've been told raising the rod will get rid of that entirely.
 
#9 ·
The bar needs to be level at ride height. If it isn't, the bar can induce sideways movement in the rear axle. I also needs to be as long as possible to minimize the sideways movement.
The height of the Panhard bar sets the roll center. Raising both ends will have the effect of raising the coll center at the rear, but the front and rear roll centers need to be at about the same height for optimum handling. A Fox body Mustang has a very high rear roll center due to their 4 link rear suspension design, and a front roll center at about 3" above ground level. This can lead to snap over steer at the limit, and other undesirable handling.

I don't know where the front roll center is on an early Mustang, and that's what you need to determine before setting the roll center at the rear.

BTW, the bar was invented be the Panhard car company of France in the early 20th century, and is pronounced "Panhard" not pan hard.
 
#10 ·
Good info, thanks! I may be lifting the front suspension a bit for clearance reasons so I will revisit again once I dial that in. It seems to handle pretty well now, definitely a difference and a lot more control in the rear.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for looking! Mustangs are one of my many passions and I love what I do.

Definitely doing all of the welding myself. Everything except for body and paint will be completed by yours truly.

Congrats on completing the program. I'm actually a transplant from Cen-cal and I took electronics as a high-school elective, and moved on to automotive and welding at Fresno City College back in the late 1990's through 2002 or so. I took courses at ARC the last 4 years to renew my smog license and also took a Friday "advanced project/speed and skill" course with John McCormack, which was a great course by the way. I am also trying to obtain my Mechanical Engineering degree some day before I retire. lol. As far as my professional career I've been a certified automotive technician for 20 years and now I am a manager and technician for a well-known Restoration shop here in Sac.
 
#28 ·
Great work!